AKA Cheap import Mini shocks with a couple of spring seats welded on by Robin Hood's finest welders. They are widely reported as being complete rubbish from new.
My zeemeride shocks have given up the ghost (lasted 242 miles) and I want to replace with something less like a jelly. Can anyone suggest a spec for a
'book' chassis with 2l pinto up front? Or a type / supplier thats worked for you?
Thanks
Gary
If you know what open and closed lengths you need for your ride height then AVO or Procomp can supply single adjustment units.
Procomp can give you a correctly valved and balanced set for your car.
A limited shock life is often created by running the units too close to the bump stops due to a desire for a lower ride height. You need a minimum of
50% of the inner shaft showing , 66% is ideal, when static to give the shock a chance.
[Edited on 14/2/08 by simes43]
quote:
Originally posted by simes43
A limited shock life is often created by running the units too close to the bump stops due to a desire for a lower ride height. You need a minimum of 50% of the inner shaft showing , 66% is ideal, when static to give the shock a chance.
[Edited on 14/2/08 by simes43]
While all true these are Zeemeride's he's got
AKA Cheap import Mini shocks with a couple of spring seats welded on by Robin Hood's finest welders. They are widely reported as being complete
rubbish from new.
If they are monotube shocks with spring seats welded on then they are dead from that day on. The distortion from the weld(s) will destroy the internal sealing unless it's done right at the end (fixing end) of the shock body.
quote:
Originally posted by MikeCapon
quote:
Originally posted by simes43
A limited shock life is often created by running the units too close to the bump stops due to a desire for a lower ride height. You need a minimum of 50% of the inner shaft showing , 66% is ideal, when static to give the shock a chance.
[Edited on 14/2/08 by simes43]
Running too close to the bumpstops will not shorten the life of the shock. It will result in a less comfortable ride (jarring) and the worst that will happen in terms of reliability is that with time the bumpstops will start to disintegrate.
Running a shock too close to it's fully open length may well however cause problems. Almost all shocks have an internal bumpstop of some kind to avoid metal to metal contact when the shock tops out. These are typically nitrile (same material as O rings) or small springs. With continued, violent topping out these will break / disintegrate and the bits floating around in the oil will see your shocks off in no time.
On a road car the static sag or droop should be between 25% and 33% of the total movement available.
Zeemerides have proved a false economy as two of the 4 have now spat their oil out.
Any thoughts about the spring strength for front shocks coping with a 2l pinto?
Gary
The angle of the front shocks determines what effective spring rate you need once you decide on a specific rate.
Spring Angle
10 Deg 15 Deg 20 Deg 25 Deg
Effective rate
0.96% 0.93% 0.88% 0.82%
Spring Angle
30 Deg 35 Deg 40 Deg 45 Deg
Effective rate
0.75% 0.66% 0.59% o.50%
The more inclined the higher the poundage of spring needed to give the same result. Its why some people will run 500 lb and others 350 lb to obtain
the same rate.
You need to measure the angle first then hopefully someone else will give you a ball park poundage figure
On this same topic, i've taken some rough measurements from my car. This is with the lower wishbone parallel to the ground.
I'm also running a 2.0 pinto and would appreciate any advice on spring weight.
Cheers,
AL