Well I've spent a week chopping the body work off, grinding off the top wishbone mounts, fabricating new mounts 25 mm further back, so I've
now got 5 degrees of caster, and re-skinned the body, and the sodding thing still doesn't self-centre.
Admittedly only tested in the driveway - daren't risk a road test, with my luck I'd get nicked like Fatty Soames.
We are talking negative caster? i thought three degrees was about right
I modified my wishbones to give 5 deg as the book measurements are wrong.
I find it does self centre but not as much as a modern tin top however it did pass sva and ive never had a problem with it.
Paul.
Why didn't you remake the top wishbone rather than move the mounts?
All though not a 7 my F1-2 has 7 degrees of castor and it centers well.
When mine failed SVA I measured it and it was about 2.5 degrees (book chassis so probably built wrong).
Modified the top bones and set up about 6 degrees and it passed OK.
I also used all the toe out/tyre pressure tricks but I'm not sure they made a big difference. Feels much the same now I've set the pressures
and toe in back.
Just remaking the 'bones can give clearance problems between the 'bone tubes & the spring - otherwise it's a choice of what's easier - remake wishbones or move brackets.... tough call!
Unless you drive it you'll not know. It only has to have "a degree of self centering". They test it by driving on almost full lock and
let go of the wheel. You won't notice that on the drive.
adrian
I thought mine would fail (about 5 degrees castor but stiff) but luckily it passed without issue.
As said, Mr SVA will mostly test on full lock and most cars will have a small amount of self centreing like that anyway.
what about springs at the end of the steering rack - i dont know the exact details but i swear i read it on here somewhere...
quote:
Originally posted by saigonij
what about springs at the end of the steering rack - i dont know the exact details but i swear i read it on here somewhere...