ceebmoj
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| posted on 23/5/12 at 10:40 PM |
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English axle crush washer change
Does any one have a guide to changing the crush washer in the English axle? so far I have found the following thread.
http://www.turbosport.co.uk/showthread.php?126170-pinion-depth-backlash-english-diff-cwp-rebuild-tips-and-info
Using the information in the thread above,
1. Mark up the location of the nut on the output flange
2. Count the number of turns to remove the nut.
3. Swap the crush spacer and oil seal
4. Replace the nut and do it up with the same number as undoing and line up the marks in step 1
5. Check the crown wheel pinion end float it should be 0.005 to 0.007" (0.13 to 0.17mm)
6. Check the pinion bearing pre-load witch should be 20 to 26 LB/INCH new bearings 12 to 18 LB/INCH old bearings excluding drag from seal
Does the above sound sensible / correct?
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britishtrident
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| posted on 24/5/12 at 06:02 AM |
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Above procedure will end in tears -- it is ok counting the turns of the nut to do an in-service change of the oil seal only but if you change
the crush washer you have to set it up properly an measure the pre-load.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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ceebmoj
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| posted on 24/5/12 at 07:51 AM |
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OK so how do you properly measure the pre-load?
1. Remove oil seal and old crush washer.
2. Replace crush washer and reassemble.
3. Tighten until end float is in the range of 0.005 to 0.007" (0.13 to 0.17mm)
4. Check the pinion bearing pre-load witch should be 20 to 26 LB/INCH new bearings 12 to 18 LB/INCH old bearings excluding drag from seal
5. mark up remove nut and resemble with oil seal
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daviep
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| posted on 24/5/12 at 09:26 AM |
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I don't mean to be nasty but I'm guessing that you may not be familiar with some of the terminology or it's application or it would
be obvious that you can't set the diff up when it's in the axle.
When you describe:
" 3. Tighten until end float is in the range of 0.005 to 0.007" (0.13 to 0.17mm) "
This adjustemnt is not done on the pinion nut (the pinion cannot have end float and preload they are the opposite of each other) the term "end
float" is also in correct and should be " backlash ". Step 3 describes setting up the clearance between the CW and the pinion, this
is done using the diff carrier bearing adjusters which you cannot see when the diff is fitted.
You also cannot check the preload on the pinion with the axle in the casing as you do not know what effect the halfshaft, wheel bearings, etc are
having on the reading.
Why do you want to change the crush tube?
Cheers
Davie
“A truly great library contains something in it to offend everyone.”
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ceebmoj
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| posted on 24/5/12 at 09:51 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by daviep
I don't mean to be nasty but I'm guessing that you may not be familiar with some of the terminology or it's application or it would
be obvious that you can't set the diff up when it's in the axle.
You are completely right. So I'm going to try to describe the bits I know. my car is a BEC. With input from this thread
http://locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=168814 I desired to change the oil seal being lasy i am only just getting round to it.
1. I have a small oil leak that I think is coming from the front of the diff where the prop shaft bolts to the diff. So I wanted to change the oil
seal.
2. Coming on and off the throttle creates clunking noise. That I think comes from the diff.
I had been told that the oil leak and the clunking noise may well point towards the crush tube needing to be replaced
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daviep
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| posted on 24/5/12 at 10:28 AM |
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I just typed loads and then accidently clicked on a link 
“A truly great library contains something in it to offend everyone.”
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ceebmoj
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| posted on 24/5/12 at 11:03 AM |
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bugger, please can you write it up again?
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daviep
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| posted on 24/5/12 at 11:11 AM |
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OK deep breath 
You need to take the propshaft off and have a rug and tug on the pinion flange, you shouldn't get any movement on it at all, if you get movement
then diff needs a rebuild.
If there is no play have a feel (turn pinion bacwards and forwards) and see how much backlash you can feel between CW and pinion, there
shouldn't be a lot (imagine rotating from 12 o'clock by 1 or 2 minutes at most) and you have to feel gently you only want the CW and P not
the whole drivetrain to the wheels. If there is a lot of play diff neeeds rebuilt.
If there isn't a lot of play then you can change the oil seal without too much trouble.
1: Scribe or mark the nut to the shaft (not to the flange as this can be fitted in different positions)
2:Remove nut - be very careful to feel exactly when the nut comes off so that you know when refitting how many full turns after it picks up the
thread
3:Remove flange and change seal
4:Clean and dry the splines of the flange and put a little silione on the splines near the top (nearest nut) before refitting - stops oil leaking up
the splines and out between the propshaft and flange
5:Refit flange
6:Refit nut as per correct number of turns from step2 - tighten just past you mark
7:Job done
Cheers
Davie
“A truly great library contains something in it to offend everyone.”
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twybrow
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| posted on 24/5/12 at 11:15 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by daviep
OK deep breath
You need to take the propshaft off and have a rug and tug on the pinion flange, you shouldn't get any movement on it at all, if you get movement
then diff needs a rebuild.
If there is no play have a feel (turn pinion bacwards and forwards) and see how much backlash you can feel between CW and pinion, there
shouldn't be a lot (imagine rotating from 12 o'clock by 1 or 2 minutes at most) and you have to feel gently you only want the CW and P not
the whole drivetrain to the wheels. If there is a lot of play diff neeeds rebuilt.
If there isn't a lot of play then you can change the oil seal without too much trouble.
1: Scribe or mark the nut to the shaft (not to the flange as this can be fitted in different positions)
2:Remove nut - be very careful to feel exactly when the nut comes off so that you know when refitting how many full turns after it picks up the
thread
3:Remove flange and change seal
4:Clean and dry the splines of the flange and put a little silione on the splines near the top (nearest nut) before refitting - stops oil leaking up
the splines and out between the propshaft and flange
5:Refit flange
6:Refit nut as per correct number of turns from step2 - tighten just past you mark
7:Job done
Cheers
Davie
Get it rebuilt properly - even just getting the old seal out can be a PITA. Plus, most people dont replace the crush tube with another, but go for a
solid space instead. For the cost, I would pay to have it overhauled properly, then at least you know it is good for the next 5 years....
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daviep
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| posted on 24/5/12 at 11:37 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by twybrow
Get it rebuilt properly - even just getting the old seal out can be a PITA. Plus, most people dont replace the crush tube with another, but go for a
solid space instead. For the cost, I would pay to have it overhauled properly, then at least you know it is good for the next 5 years....
Seems a bit excessive, no harm in doing some diagnostic work first!
£5 for a seal versus £200 for a rebuild.
Cheers
Davie
“A truly great library contains something in it to offend everyone.”
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twybrow
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| posted on 24/5/12 at 12:31 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by daviep
quote:
Originally posted by twybrow
Get it rebuilt properly - even just getting the old seal out can be a PITA. Plus, most people dont replace the crush tube with another, but go for a
solid space instead. For the cost, I would pay to have it overhauled properly, then at least you know it is good for the next 5 years....
Seems a bit excessive, no harm in doing some diagnostic work first!
£5 for a seal versus £200 for a rebuild.
Cheers
Davie
Maybe, but usually if they are leaking, then just changing the seal, and refitting the nut is only a short term fix.... If the movement has been there
to make the seal leak in the first place, then it probably will again! But it might be worth a punt (I did exactly that, and mine still leaked!)....
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ceebmoj
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| posted on 24/5/12 at 01:01 PM |
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Thanks for the input.
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ceebmoj
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| posted on 24/5/12 at 01:13 PM |
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I'm guessing that rebuilding the diff/axle is going to be beyond me based on the input on this thread so does any body have a recommendation for
some one to to that in the Manchester area?
[Edited on 24/5/12 by ceebmoj]
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britishtrident
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| posted on 24/5/12 at 03:47 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by twybrow
Get it rebuilt properly - even just getting the old seal out can be a PITA. Plus, most people dont replace the crush tube with another, but go for a
solid space instead. For the cost, I would pay to have it overhauled properly, then at least you know it is good for the next 5 years....
All those dozens of MK1 and MK2 Escort van diff oil seals I changed must have been flukes cos I never had once other geting the oil seal out.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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