DarrenW
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| posted on 6/6/05 at 08:56 AM |
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Propshaft Spec
Iam at that time where i need to consider a prop. The question is how do i spec it up??
Gearbox is 1988 Pinto 2.0 EFi Sierra Type 9 5 speed.
Diff is 1992 Sierra 2.0 DOHC (dont know type).
I can measure length from end face of gearbox to mounting face of diff.
Anything else needed? (ie are there different gearbox output shafts - the male splined shaft). Do i need to specify what space i have to fit it as i
will need to new prop to be shorter than the gap so i can slide it all in etc (box and diff are fitted in position - i dont want to have to remove
them to fit it if possible).
Am i making this overly complicated - maybe you can tell me who you used, how it was specced and cost?
Cheers,
Darren.
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jambojeef
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| posted on 6/6/05 at 09:07 AM |
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I know some of the guys have used Bailey Morris and I was planning to get a quote from their website
http://www.baileymorris.co.uk/request_quotation.asp
Geoff
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andyace
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| posted on 6/6/05 at 12:07 PM |
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Darren at GTS does them custom made by the suppliers to Caterham for £120/125
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andyb64
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| posted on 6/6/05 at 12:37 PM |
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Dunning and Fairbank in Leeds made mine. All they needed to know was the distance from the end of the gearbox to the flange on the diff. What model
of gearbox and diff I was using and how much power I would be putting through it.
www.propshafts.co.uk
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DarrenW
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| posted on 6/6/05 at 12:56 PM |
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Can anyone direct me to some pics of your props (type 9 to sierra std diff hopefully)??
I may DIY one to just get me mobile while i direct funds to other parts of the build. I prefer the idea of a purpose made / bought diff for road use
later.
Ive got a female splined end that fits the type 9 box. I can mod this to fit the prop after removing the centre bearing and centre spline. Then just
need to shorten the prop.
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DarrenW
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| posted on 7/6/05 at 08:00 AM |
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I thought id share my research with you. After talking to Mac#1 i can buy a new front nose piece and UJ assy fitted to the shortened propshaft tube
for around £65. I just need to specify tube OD and length from end of box to diff flange. This approach re-uses the tube and diff end UJ which
apparently hardly ever need replacing as they see limited wear. This seems to be a good compromise between true DIY locost (high risk) and buying a
new custom prop.
I hope this helps others out that are in the same position as me.
Regards,
Darren.
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