paul_mcq
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| posted on 29/8/05 at 07:48 PM |
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bearing?
well hows it going? the draw so the problem i'm having with designs of our buggy. the problem is the shaft in the middle has a flange welded on
either end for a drive shaft, how do i put bearing on the shaft as it has to with stand aot of revs etc. plz let me no of any help. later cheers
[img][/img]
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paul_mcq
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| posted on 29/8/05 at 07:54 PM |
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http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=30505
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gazza285
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| posted on 29/8/05 at 08:23 PM |
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What we use at work are split roller bearings usually called Cooper bearings as these are one of the manufacturers. They are available in all sorts of
different housings and are assembled around a shaft without having to have access to the end.
Example.
Get down your local bearing suppliers and see what they can do , but they tend to be only available in sizes over 40mm shaft so you may need to turn
up some matching spacers, and the bearings are expensive.
[Edited on 29/8/05 by gazza285]
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JoelP
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| posted on 29/8/05 at 08:47 PM |
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do a google search for online suppliers, and browse a few catalogues to get the feel of what you are looking for. Then just visit a local place  You
need to make sure that you get the correct shaft size, a suitable outersize, max rpm and lubrication type. But the supplier would know all this like
the back of his hand.
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paul_mcq
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| posted on 30/8/05 at 12:10 AM |
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can any one think of another way to make the drive system work, preferably front whhel drive car drive shafts as seirra's are had to come by in
scrap yards here.(to many in stock cars) plz get back to me cheers with help so far
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JoelP
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| posted on 30/8/05 at 08:18 AM |
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it would be quite easy (relatively, i mean ) to use any drive shaft that bolts on, then you dont need to worry about splines.
Sierra shafts could be delivered to ireland quite cheaply, couldnt they?
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 30/8/05 at 11:59 AM |
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If you want to use FWD driveshafts, then why not use the entire diff assembly as well? This gets you the matching splines and a set of bearings.
Most diffs have a removal crown wheel, so it wouldn't be too difficult to bolt your sprocket (I assume that what you mean by cog?) onto it. If
you don't want the differential action simply weld it up.
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paul_mcq
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| posted on 30/8/05 at 03:10 PM |
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just off the phone with a bearing place and its 135 +vat each for the split bearing. is there any way of getting a flange to fit without welding it to
the axle so it can be removeable? cheers with help so far
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Bob C
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| posted on 30/8/05 at 06:39 PM |
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So you need to make at least one end removeable with a really strong concentric bolt-up flange...
If you have a lathe you can make a very good tapered joint that bolts up tight & uses a round pin as a key - this system was used on (old) lotus
elan rear stub axles with great success & is suitable for a home engineer with a lathe to DIY
cheers
Bob
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Liam
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| posted on 31/8/05 at 08:16 PM |
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NSDev seemed close to telling you what he does on his grasser on your other post! Perhaps drop him a U2U...
Liam
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NS Dev
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| posted on 1/9/05 at 08:28 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Liam
NSDev seemed close to telling you what he does on his grasser on your other post! Perhaps drop him a U2U...
Liam
I did, but my grasser doesn't have this setup, it's several mate's class 8's that do, and unfortunately I can't remember
how they got round this problem!
I have a funny feeling that the solution used was nice cheap plummer block bearings put onto the shaft before welding the flanges on. bit of a bodge
but the bearings are so over the top for the job that the chances of having to replace them are minimal.
in any case, you can make the whole shaft again for less than the cost of 1 split bearing.
off topic, never knew that Cooper made those split bearings. (we supply Coopers with steel for their bearings) and they are a very useful
"emergency" solution for a desperate design engineer!!!
[Edited on 1/9/05 by NS Dev]
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paul_mcq
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| posted on 2/9/05 at 12:31 AM |
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cheers ppl for all the help no we can start building this mofo. later
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