02GF74
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| posted on 18/1/06 at 09:30 AM |
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camber/castor/tracking figures?
Did a quick search and nothing came up.
What are the typical figures for camber, castor and tracking?
All of these are adjustable on mine! It is a Formula 27; cortina hubs, mk2 escort rack. Please don't point me to t he book(s) on steering
geometry - I need a rough idea of what similar cars are using.
I have various Ford manuals (escort mk2, cortina mk3/4, capri, sierra), all rwd but some have toe in others toe out.
At the moment I have set to about 7 mm toe in.
The info. would be useful in positioning my rack and to figure out whether I can use male track rod ends connected using tube.
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 18/1/06 at 10:19 AM |
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I started with 4.5 degrees castor (as far as it would go ) 0.5degrees neg camber and 1.5mm toe in car seemed to handle well but am still playing with
settings. Figures like those should get you in the ballpark. would have thought 7mm toe in was probably to much?
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 18/1/06 at 10:38 AM |
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I have 0 degrees for toe (no 'in' or 'out'!). Works very well for me. Des Hammill's book suggests 1mm toe-out on a RWD
car for road use, but I haven't tried that.
David
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02GF74
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| posted on 18/1/06 at 10:40 AM |
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from memory, 0-7 mm toe in is what the haynes mk2 escort said; I set it to max. as I was checking how many track rod threads go into the track rod
ends.
[Edited on 18/1/06 by 02GF74]
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DarrenW
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| posted on 18/1/06 at 11:06 AM |
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Are you SVA'd?? If not set up for SVA first. Mine was toe out quite a lot (to the point where it almost looked daft), mushroom adaptor full
forward and neutral camber. Tyres approx 35psi and tweak settings to get best poss self centering.
Since then ive only adjusted toe in, approx 2degs and its OK for now for leisurely drives. I need to get it fully set up next.
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02GF74
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| posted on 18/1/06 at 11:36 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by DarrenW
Are you SVA'd??
nope  at the moment I seem to be taking apart more that what I put together!! 
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DarrenW
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| posted on 18/1/06 at 11:51 AM |
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Yes, that is always a danger when you buy part built. They are not necessarily quicker to build as you have to take dismantling into account and
undoing someone elses thought process.
Stick at it though, sounds like you are doing alright.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 18/1/06 at 12:26 PM |
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For normal everyday use all rwd car should have some toe-in. Toe-out when going straight ahead is a really bad thing.
A Locost needs very little toe-in 1 to 2 mm should be fine but anywhere in the range 0 to 3 mm should be fine.
Because the the wishbone geometry isn't ideal a bit of negative camber is required, how much depends on the roads you drive on and driving style
but the range most builders have used is -0.5 to -2.5 degrees.
For road use -1 or -1.5 should been enough but for track work -2 or -2.5 degrees is needed to get the outer edges of the tyres up to temp.
For castor ask Mark is the man but if you get the upper ball joint trailling the lower by 20 to 25mm you should be ok -- note both sides must
be as equal as possible or the steering will pull.
[Edited on 18/1/06 by britishtrident]
[Edited on 18/1/06 by britishtrident]
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emsfactory
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| posted on 18/1/06 at 02:55 PM |
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I have very little toe in, half a degree or so. Castor is about 7 IIRC and camber. I can never remeer which way round it goes. Top of the wheel out by
a degree.
It self centers and that is what you need to get for the sva.
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 18/1/06 at 03:19 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by DarrenW
Are you SVA'd?? If not set up for SVA first. Mine was toe out quite a lot (to the point where it almost looked daft),
I'm sure I read that SVA centers were well aware of this trick now and wouldn't pass anything with excessive toe out?
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 18/1/06 at 05:55 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MikeRJ
quote:
Originally posted by DarrenW
Are you SVA'd?? If not set up for SVA first. Mine was toe out quite a lot (to the point where it almost looked daft),
I'm sure I read that SVA centers were well aware of this trick now and wouldn't pass anything with excessive toe out?
Exeter certainly won't, we had quite a discussion about it after the test over a cup of tea. Their rest room has all the kit car mags on the
coffee table - they are into cars and almost certainly aware of this site too
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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emsfactory
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| posted on 18/1/06 at 07:10 PM |
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I dont know why people do this anyway. Its on the test for a reason. Why would you want to spend loads of money and time to build a dangerous car.
If you were gonna punt it straight away then fair enough
But most of us keep them a while.
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JB
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| posted on 19/1/06 at 04:35 PM |
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Toe
As British Trident says, toe out should really be avoided as it is an unstable situation. So you run toe in to avoid getting toe out. Therefore if you
have really stiff suspension links and pivots you can run less toe in, but if thesuspension pivots are very soft you run a bit more toe in.
The above is quite a generalisation and toe can but tweaked a lot but a bit of toe in is generally the best starting point.
John
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