Stu16v
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| posted on 25/1/06 at 05:10 PM |
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A simple (but very effective) camber guage can be made for peanuts from a spirit level and a couple of adjustable bolts that sit on the wheel rim.
Chances are that you wont get the camber absolutely spot on side-to-side. This is because the top ball joints have to be turned one complete turn to
move the wheel in/out.
Steering rack dead centre ideally needs to be found by getting the *inner* rack dead centre in relation to the chassis. Any other method is assuming
that the steering rack is centrally mounted in the chassis. It may well be, but at least you can check 
HTH Stu.
Dont just build it.....make it!
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britishtrident
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| posted on 25/1/06 at 09:50 PM |
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Simple tracking tool
25x25 RHS
9"x9" Mirror Tile
Some 15mm Plywood
Pocket Laser Level from Woolies
[Edited on 25/1/06 by britishtrident]
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jos
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| posted on 22/2/06 at 08:43 PM |
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I wonder what you'll all think of how Ive set up my toe this evening.
It will only work if you have a matched pair of tyres on the front with grooves which run around their circumference. R888's sorry cant help
Put the steering wheel to the central position.
Hang a length of string with sufficient length to only just be above floor level in one of the grroves on one side and the exact opposite on the other
side. (knot in nuts into the string to create tension in the string if required)
Using a straight rule, yard stick or stiff tape measure, measure the distance between the trailing side of the tyres' string and make a note.
Then measure the distance between the front tyres and make a note of this as well.
To set toe to 0 you are looking to get both these figures to be identical. To have toe in you are looking to have the rear measurement bigger than
the front, and to get toe out you are looking to have the front reading bigger than the rear.
Using this method you automatically have the proper vehicle weight on the car (minus driver) and you dont need to jack the car up at all as you can
manouver the track rod ends to lengthen or shorten each side as required.
I had a difference of 35mm (toe out) at first and after 2 turns each side had made both measurements identical. I'm going to try these settings
at some time to see how she drives and can then play with single or half turns to see how she responds.
What do other people think of this method???
.: Motorsport / motor racing circuit / track wall art Apex Traxs :.
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jos
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| posted on 22/2/06 at 08:46 PM |
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To set up camber I used a small spirit level against my wheel rim and checked to see verticality, and adjusted the ball joint length until the bubble
was in the middle (ish) of the marks.
This one does take a lot longer as you need to jack up the front and release it to see the effect of your adjustments.
That is unless you measure how high the centre line of your wheel is (like I did) jack up the front remove the wheel and release the jack until your
hub centre is at the required height. Using this method also allows you to use the brake disc to line up your spirit level.
.: Motorsport / motor racing circuit / track wall art Apex Traxs :.
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JoelP
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| posted on 22/2/06 at 08:51 PM |
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not bad. My approach was to hold a length of metal tube against the tyre, hence over 3 metres there is less chance of inaccuracy. However, i assumed
that front and rear track were identical (probably not, but i dont care anyway!)
I centered the rack first, then set the steering wheel to be square too, then adjusted toe to have both pointing slightly outside of the rear wheels
(about an inch). Hence, technically some toe in.
make sure you jump on the car after jacking it to resettle the springs. 
[Edited on 22/2/06 by JoelP]
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