blakep82
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 posted on 27/9/07 at 05:26 PM |
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axle retubing jig
well maybe less of the ...
going to retube the axle. length to be altered, and group 4 tube ends to be welded on.
now to a certain extent, i'm told, the process is fairly self aligning. cut the original tubes around 10cm before diff casing and slide the new
tubes over the ends. should be a nice tight fit so the new tubes should be perfectly aligned.
these things are never that easy though. do you think this jig might help things?
the yellow section is to be removed after the blue (angle iron) is welded to the box section.
[img][/img]
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ecosse
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| posted on 27/9/07 at 05:36 PM |
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How about using a laser pointer in one end of the tube and a target in the other?(I'm presuming of course that you are doing this with no
internals in the axle)
Cheers
Alex
PS
Sorry, thats absolutely no use as an answer to your question, but I thought it worth a mention
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nitram38
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| posted on 27/9/07 at 05:46 PM |
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The angle iron method is a good one but you will still have to watch out for it bending when you weld it.
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blakep82
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| posted on 27/9/07 at 05:47 PM |
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no, your right! i have already got a few spare lasers, one pointer, and one club laser (yeah, i really do! powerful enough to shine a good few
miles!)
i think the difficult part of that would be ensuring the laser points straight down the tube. taping 2 pieces of card to the ends of the tube with
holes exactly in the centres may well work, but if the laser's off centre...
maybe i've got the wrong end of that though?
but maybe even just a steel pole down the tubes, with a spacer welded on to account for the thickness of the original tubes inside the new ones
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daviep
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| posted on 27/9/07 at 05:47 PM |
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Possibly being a bit cynical tonight but getting this lot aligned after welding will be pretty hard I think.
How do you intend on measuring the results?
Jig certainly won`t do any harm just watch for the axle springing when you remove it from the jig.
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ecosse
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| posted on 27/9/07 at 05:53 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by blakep82
no, your right! i have already got a few spare lasers, one pointer, and one club laser (yeah, i really do! powerful enough to shine a good few
miles!)
i think the difficult part of that would be ensuring the laser points straight down the tube. taping 2 pieces of card to the ends of the tube with
holes exactly in the centres may well work, but if the laser's off centre...
maybe i've got the wrong end of that though?
but maybe even just a steel pole down the tubes, with a spacer welded on to account for the thickness of the original tubes inside the new ones
Depends on how your lasers mount I suppose, but you could turn up some plugs for the ends of the tubes(so you know they will be true) and shine the
laser through a centre hole from one end to the other.
Followed with some careful welding, job done
Cheers
Alex
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blakep82
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| posted on 27/9/07 at 06:05 PM |
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i wonder how exact they need to be... Sonny Howard from SHP (he builds the trucks) said that its fairly self aligning, just a case of putting the new
tube over the old one, and welding bit by bit to avoid too much heating.
the tubes should be a nice tight fit, and if too tight, the new tube should be heated to expand it.
maybe its not needed, but knowing my luck i'll end up ruining this axle
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BearingKits
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| posted on 27/9/07 at 06:16 PM |
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Is it an Atlas axle ?
If so, you could call John Foster here
(link to FOSTEK) and ask his advice (very helpful guy normally)
Fostek build Atlas axles to most widths for the Rally world.
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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blakep82
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| posted on 27/9/07 at 06:23 PM |
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i spoke to someone from Fostek last week actually! i was going to buy some of their group 4 stub axles, and asked his advice on them. top bloke.
thing is, I'll have to get them from SHP, always feel a bit dubious asking someone for help when i'm not going to buy their stuff
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NS Dev
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| posted on 27/9/07 at 09:35 PM |
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Forget the lasers, sort a strong jig out.
If you are retubing it by sleeving it, then it should be pretty much self aligning as you say.
Normally with atlas axles the plug welds on the rear of the casing are ground/bored out, then the tubes are pulled out, new ones pressed/knocked in,
and re-plugged in the old plug weld holes, plus often stitched too if used for rallying.
Re. the jig, think about what you are trying to achieve before you do it!! You are trying to get the axle flanges parallel, and as these wont be
fitted, make the jig bolt to each of the axle tube end flanges, on the existing axle, so you know the jig matches a known straight axle (as long as it
is! ) then make some spacers to the correct spacing to fit between the plates on the jig and your new required axle tube end flange positions. These
spacers can be trued dead parallel in a vertical mill at your local machine shop.
assemble the axle in your jig with the tube flanges bolted to your spacers and through to the end plates of the jig and hey presto, you know the ends
are parallel as they were on the original axle.
This is the jig setup I have used for de-dion setups in the past, and anyone who used to use www.valvers.com and was familiar with matt's v8
manta will have seen that he followed this advice to do the jig for the de-dion on that.
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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blakep82
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| posted on 27/9/07 at 09:47 PM |
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^ I used to be on valvers all the time! i miss it 
by retubing the axle, it's getting converted to group 4 with fully floating shafts, using these instread of the original type flanges
but, like you say, since i'm sleeving it i can't go far wrong, and as long as the jig is strong it should be fine
i just needed someone else to tell me that too!
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Angel Acevedo
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| posted on 28/9/07 at 02:23 PM |
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Welding axle
Sorry to steal thread,
Regarding welding the axle, the book states to disassemble the axle beforre doing any welding, but I have seen assembled axles with frsh welding on
them. Is it acceptable or do I have to disassemble?
Thanks in advance,
Beware of what you wish.. for it may come true....
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blakep82
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| posted on 28/9/07 at 03:08 PM |
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the driveshafts are definitely coming out of mine (otherwise i'd have to cut through them!) but i'm considereing whether or not to remove
the diff, bearing in mind they can be difficult to set up correctly when putting them back in.
i tend to think as long as any rubber selas are taken out and the axle oil, you should be fine. but thats only an opinion! i've not welded
anything to an axle yet!
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blakep82
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| posted on 29/9/07 at 06:10 PM |
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how abou this instead. a straight edge, built against the original axle tubes (clamped on each tube, and then the bridge welded on), checked on
removal, then when the new tubes are in place use it to check the new tubes are staight and if not, tap them in the right direction until they are
then tack, tack, tack, so they can't move before full welding
what's everyone's opinion on this instead?
speaking to sonny from SHP who build the chassis and retube their own axles, he said put the new tubes over the old ones and they'll line
themselves up. so surely they can't be that far out to start with
[img][/img]
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