craig1410
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 posted on 12/4/04 at 09:45 PM |
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Euroquip 600 brake hose assembly - Help Pls?
Hi,
Has anyone on here used the Euroquip 600 self assembly brake hose fittings from Rally Design? If so, did you get any instructions with them?
In particular, I would like to know if the braided outer goes inside the olive or outside (I think outside as it's very tight) and whether the
braiding should be trimmed back a bit to let the screw on fitting compress the olive on its own, or whether I should leave the braiding full length
and let it get trapped between the olive and the screw on fitting.
Also, what is best for cutting the hose to length? I get good clean results using a nice sharp pair of tinsnips but I then have to un-squash the pipe.
I don't think this should be a problem but thought I'd ask.
I'm a bit annoyed that something so critical to safety doesn't come with any instructions. Even a 13Amp plug comes with instructions these
days...
Cheers,
Craig.
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theconrodkid
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| posted on 12/4/04 at 10:43 PM |
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i think they have to be crimped for sva,those will fail
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
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craig1410
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| posted on 12/4/04 at 10:49 PM |
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Hi Conrodkid,
I've just received my SVA Manual and it says something along the lines of "they are okay if they have a central support pipe" which
these do have. I would have just bought crimped hoses but my setup is not a standard one and I want flexibility (pardon the pun) in the
arrangement.
Cheers,
Craig.
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theconrodkid
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| posted on 12/4/04 at 11:02 PM |
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k i stand corrected,may be best to get onto raldes and have words
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
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Terrapin_racing
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| posted on 12/4/04 at 11:03 PM |
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Will be Ok for SVA. The attached picture gives an idea on assembly. If stuck give rally design (www.raldes.co.uk) a call tomorrow and get them to fax
you a data sheet. As a precaution (if you are really particular) place a small amount of loctite thread lock on the threads prior to tightening.
I've never had a failure. I have a car with this type of fitting (JC Midge) on brakes for last 15 years.
The braid is a pain to cut -a number of methods - really sharp chisel and alloy block as support, dremel cut off tool (great), heavy duty snips
etc.
PS: BRAID SHOULD BE ASSEMBLED AS PER TFE HOSE PIC 2
[Edited on 12/4/04 by Terrapin_racing]
 
Rescued attachment assinstr.jpg
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craig1410
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| posted on 12/4/04 at 11:23 PM |
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Thanks for that.
Can I assume that this is not "exactly" the same as the Euroquip stuff as I don't remember there being any barbs inside the sleeve.
I'll contact RalDes tomorrow and see if they have a datasheet just to make sure that I'm doing it right...
Also, do you just test yours in situ. I was planning to just wait until my whole hydraulic system was assembled and then pressure test the lot by
sitting with my foot on the pedal hard for as long as my leg muscles will last and then checking for drips (ooer!)
Cheers,
Craig.
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Terrapin_racing
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| posted on 12/4/04 at 11:52 PM |
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Craig, instructions are for earl's hose but same principle applies to braid arrangement and tightening. I must admit I have access to testing
gear in work (hydraulic) but have never used it on brake fexibles. As you state, I always test mine on the car - never had a leak yet. I still keep an
eye on the master cylinder level like a hawk for the first few days on the road though!
Best of luck, I'm sure all will be OK.
Just plumbing a fuel system at present - cutting the larger 100 series hose is a B*****d.
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kingr
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| posted on 14/4/04 at 02:34 PM |
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Craig,
I've got some illustrations that should be exactly what you need - if I get a chance I'll scan them for you.
Email me if I forget, I'm busy at the moment and very disorganised.
Kingr
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craig1410
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| posted on 14/4/04 at 04:27 PM |
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Kingr,
That would be great as I didn't get a chance to chase Rally Design today. I actually assembled three small hoses last night and it doesn't
appear to be a problem. The hardest bit is separating the braiding enough to let the little olive thingy in between the hose and the braiding but once
that is done it is easy. I did use threadlock but only a very small amount to help lubricate the threads while puting them together and obviously to
keep them together.
Has anyone gone through SVA with these type of hoses and if so would you recommend that I get a spare fitting to take with me and show to the
inspector to convince him that they are of the appropriate type?
Cheers,
Craig.
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Northy
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| posted on 14/4/04 at 05:54 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by craig1410
Has anyone gone through SVA with these type of hoses and if so would you recommend that I get a spare fitting to take with me and show to the
inspector to convince him that they are of the appropriate type?
Cheers,
Craig.
Good question! I have a set of these sat in a box in the garage, not sure if I should put them on for SVA or not!
Graham
Website under construction. Help greatfully received as I don't really know what I'm doing! 
"If a man says something in the woods and there are no women there, is he still wrong?"
Built 2L 8 Valve Vx Powered Avon
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NS Dev
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| posted on 14/4/04 at 10:13 PM |
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I have not been through the SVA but it states that these fittings are ok, well it states that fittings with an "inner support sleeve" are
ok, and the Euroquip 600 fittings have an inner support sleeve (the long thin bit that pokes inside the Teflon liner). I would order an extra fitting
and take it with you to the test, you can show the tester what you have used and that it has the inner sleeve.
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Terrapin_racing
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| posted on 14/4/04 at 11:22 PM |
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NS - I'm sure you are right -should be fine for SVA
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Rob Allison
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| posted on 16/4/04 at 05:04 PM |
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Craig, fitted the RalDes braded pipes in my RS2000 easy to do and well worth the extra cost, but don't forget about swivelling ends. I forgot
and had male ends on the pipe from the m/cylinder to the back of the car, made it a right pain to put in and even worse to take out. So banjo type
ends are fitted at the master cylinder now.
Far better than the solid brake pipes
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craig1410
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| posted on 16/4/04 at 05:18 PM |
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Rob,
Thanks for the info.
Are you saying that you use braided hose for your entire pipe run?
If so then this surprises me because I'd have thought that this would lead to a softer pedal than if you use metal pipes for the fixed bits and
flexible only where needed. I am only using five flexy hoses for the following:
1. Chassis to de-dion axle tee-piece
2. De-dion axle to calipers (x2) as the calipers are the sliding type.
3. Front chassis to front caliper (x2)
I'm also going to use it for my clutch from the chassis to the slave cylinder.
Everything else will be copper pipe of 3/16" diameter and will run down the tunnel and around the engine bay as usual.
Surely copper is more resistant to pressure than PTFE or whatever is in the euroquip hoses?
Cheers,
Craig.
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Rob Allison
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| posted on 18/4/04 at 11:00 AM |
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Craig, The full run in the car is braided. As i have no servo The brake pedal is very firm and there is very little pedal movement required to stop
the car, But lots of effort.
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NS Dev
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| posted on 18/4/04 at 11:03 PM |
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Craig, you are probably right, but I think it is shades of the same colour, there is not much "swellability" to the stainless braided
teflon or copper! I would probably use copper on the long runs (I have on other cars) but only cos it's cheaper!!
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Peteff
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| posted on 19/4/04 at 09:15 AM |
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CCC tried that a few years ago.
They tried a rally car with fully braided hoses and condemned it as a failure. They said that under violent braking the hoses could be seen to move
(run inside the car) physically squirming like snakes. Having no servo doesn't make any difference to brake efficiency, a servo just makes the
pedal easier to press and robs you of feel. It's standard now because everyone expects it along with power everything else.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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Findlay234
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| posted on 19/4/04 at 11:47 AM |
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so has anyone found out how to fit the raldes stuff or shall i just experiment?
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Peteff
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| posted on 19/4/04 at 12:23 PM |
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Found something similar to the other.
http://www.earls.co.uk/bike/09_Assembly_instructions.pdf
See if this is any help.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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Rob Allison
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| posted on 19/4/04 at 02:49 PM |
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Fitting the ends is easy. Just cut end pipe end clean across at 90deg. Push the backing nut over the pipe, spread the braiding out away from the ptfe
liner. Then push the olive on to the ptfe pipe so that it is fully into the olive, you can see the pipe inside the olive it should be right up to the
metal. Then tighten up on to the fitting. Don't tighten the nut right up to the fitting leave about 1 turn Aprox 1mm from the nut to the
fitting.
I was told by RalDes that the fittings can be taken apart and put back together again without changing the olive. I’m not to sure about this bit, I
work with pipe fittings a lot and there are not may manufactures that recommend this.
Rob
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