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Author: Subject: Compound angles of tubes LA and LB
Chris_R

posted on 18/5/04 at 08:54 PM Reply With Quote
Compound angles of tubes LA and LB

I’m having some problems measuring the compound angles of tubes LA and LB. I’ve looked at previous threads, but haven’t yet found an answer. I was hoping some of you guys could let me know how you did it.


Cheers,

Chris.





A bit of slapstick never hurt anyone.

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alfasudsprint

posted on 18/5/04 at 09:51 PM Reply With Quote
Have you tried Mcsorely plans? I did mine before that, it was bloody difficult, but you get there eventually. a bit of trial and error in the abscence of calcs, ie a piece of scrap worst case!

tim

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Chris_R

posted on 18/5/04 at 10:20 PM Reply With Quote
Mcsorely plans? Please excuse my ignorance.





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Chris_R

posted on 18/5/04 at 10:24 PM Reply With Quote
Ah, http://mcsorley.net/





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James

posted on 19/5/04 at 09:56 AM Reply With Quote
Using Trig' I just worked out the angle that each cut needed to be along each face of the tube. I then cut each face individually.

Took me three attempts but worked in the end!

Cheers,

James

EDIT:
You could of course cheat and make the nosecone angled in only one plane- then just lean it back! I think Conrod did that on his first Locost.

Additionally it's worth noting that the top/bottom offset should really be 4" not 3" so you can fit the wishbones on better. Mark Allanson knows more about that than me though.


[Edited on 19/5/04 by James]

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ned

posted on 19/5/04 at 10:32 AM Reply With Quote
well mine is probably bu**ered because I just cut them by eye and then set them by the location of the suspension brackets using the jig i made.

Ned.





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Steve Hnz

posted on 19/5/04 at 11:52 AM Reply With Quote
James, could you please expand on your comments re top to bottom offset, or maybe Mark should? Thanks, Steve.
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flak monkey

posted on 19/5/04 at 12:24 PM Reply With Quote
Basically if you want to use book wishbones AND get the correct castor angle (5.3 or 5.5 deg) you need to shift the top wishbone back by about 20mm. If you do this with the standard front assembly one of your wishbone brackets ends up with nothing to fix to! You can either change the L assembly, or change the design of the wishbone to overcome this. But you need to change one or the other to get the castor right.

Cheers,
David





Sera

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James

posted on 19/5/04 at 01:51 PM Reply With Quote
'Nuff said!

James

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Peteff

posted on 19/5/04 at 05:05 PM Reply With Quote
The one I'm doing now has the front top 25mm further back and the fu's the same to give more castor and still leave something to fasten the bracket to. The chassis is 25mm taller as well





yours, Pete

I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.

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Chris_R

posted on 19/5/04 at 05:22 PM Reply With Quote
I'd intended to use GTS's wide track wishbones. will that effect the position of the L & F tubes?





A bit of slapstick never hurt anyone.

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flak monkey

posted on 19/5/04 at 05:29 PM Reply With Quote
In a word....yes...(AFAIK) you still need to lean the L assembly back further and leave the FU tubes out until you have the wishbones....

Anyone else agree with me?

Cheers,
David





Sera

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Chris_R

posted on 19/5/04 at 06:21 PM Reply With Quote
I'm using sierra uprights so will have to use mushroom inserts. It's possible to get the inserts with an offset hole, so will this help the castor without having to move the wishbones?

[Edited on 19/5/04 by Chris_R]





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leto

posted on 19/5/04 at 06:48 PM Reply With Quote
This might help if you are to lazy to use a hacksaw, like I am.
Drawings for more reclined versions in following posts.

Oh! I forgot! Please check the dimension, I don't have The Book around.

Happy building

[Edited on 04-5-19 by leto]

[Edited on 04-5-19 by leto]





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I'm gonna drive everybody wild
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leto

posted on 19/5/04 at 06:49 PM Reply With Quote
Reclined 20mm

[Edited on 04-5-19 by leto]

[Edited on 04-5-19 by leto]

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leto

posted on 19/5/04 at 06:50 PM Reply With Quote
Reclined 40mm

[Edited on 04-5-19 by leto]

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leto

posted on 19/5/04 at 07:31 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Chris_R
I'm using sierra uprights so will have to use mushroom inserts. It's possible to get the inserts with an offset hole, so will this help the castor without having to move the wishbones?

I believe Castor is defined by a line through the joints and they will not be moved by a offset mushroom. This have most probably been discussed before. But I can bee wrong in both cases.





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I'm gonna drive everybody wild
'Cause I'll have the only one there is a round”. (J. Cash)

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flak monkey

posted on 19/5/04 at 08:00 PM Reply With Quote
quote:

I believe Castor is defined by a line through the joints and they will not be moved by a offset mushroom. This have most probably been discussed before. But I can bee wrong in both cases.



Correct....'nuff said.... (It has been posted before too....)

David





Sera

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Chris_R

posted on 19/5/04 at 08:27 PM Reply With Quote
would turning the offset to the front of the vehicle not angle the upright toward the rear?





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flak monkey

posted on 19/5/04 at 08:32 PM Reply With Quote
I always assumed that too, but i remember reading something to the contrary...if you can find the topic thread you can read all about it...i dont remember what it was called....all i remember is that the adjustable inserts dont do much for you....

Anyone remember?

And i stand to be corrected as usual....

[Edited on 19/5/04 by flak monkey]





Sera

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Chris_R

posted on 19/5/04 at 08:52 PM Reply With Quote
so, the basic advice is make the 76mm lean of the L section around 101mm and don't add the F tubes until wishbones arrive? Knowing my luck something will go wrong somewhere along the line.





A bit of slapstick never hurt anyone.

http://www.chris.renney.dsl.pipex.com/



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flak monkey

posted on 19/5/04 at 08:54 PM Reply With Quote
Yup, sounds about right to me Then your brakets will definately end up with something to fix to...and not be hanging in mid air!

Cheers
David





Sera

http://www.motosera.com

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leto

posted on 20/5/04 at 07:08 AM Reply With Quote
Reclined 25mm
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davef

posted on 20/5/04 at 01:32 PM Reply With Quote
LA & LB

Hi Chris
this subject is a real old one, go into search, look for castor angle, and check accurate front suspension date 13/2/03,all will be explained in detail. i discovered the cockup in the book a long time ago, and did my own alterations to the chassis to accomodate the suspension brackets better. while i am typing just to make clear for people looking at the castor angle for the first time 5.3 degrees means 5 degrees 30 minutes. or 5.5 which means five and one half degrees, cos theres 60 minutes in a degree. cheers davef.

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James

posted on 20/5/04 at 01:54 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Chris_R
so, the basic advice is make the 76mm lean of the L section around 101mm and don't add the F tubes until wishbones arrive? Knowing my luck something will go wrong somewhere along the line.


Yup- sounds right.

And make sure you make a decent bracket jig- makes life many times easier!

There's a couple of pictures in my archive:

http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/photos.php?action=showphoto&photo=bracketjig_fr_small.jpg

and

http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/photos.php?action=showphoto&photo=bracketjig_rr_small1.jpg

If you don't have spare metal then I guess you could do what Ned did and replace the 19mm with MDF.

HTH,

James

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