bumpy
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| posted on 10/10/12 at 08:47 AM |
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Sierra wheel hub flanges
Hi
Are the rear wheel hub flanges interchangable between the drum and disc brake cars. I know that the disc model has a different bearing housing to
mount the discs, but I have the chance of buying flanges from a disc car and would like them to fit my drum bearing housings.
Thanks

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loggyboy
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| posted on 10/10/12 at 09:13 AM |
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They are different.
With the drums, the stub axel sits directly in the bearing and the flange slots on the to the axel. With disks, the stub axel is narrower and the
fange goes around the stub axle and then sits in to the bearing.
I think you can use the drum flange but it means converting to the disk carriers, (cutting off the caliper brackets) but im not sure you will also
need to convert the rest of the driveshafts (and diff flanges) to bolt on.
Mistral Motorsport
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mcerd1
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| posted on 10/10/12 at 09:18 AM |
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I beleve the bearings are a different size
iiyama on here used disc brake hub carriers with drum brake hubs and push-in shafts, but I think he had to get some machining done (aparently its
slightly ligher than using a rear disc conversion bracket)
can I ask why you'd want to do it the other way round ?
[Edited on 10/10/2012 by mcerd1]
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bumpy
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| posted on 10/10/12 at 10:52 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by mcerd1
I beleve the bearings are a different size
iiyama on here used disc brake hub carriers with drum brake hubs and push-in shafts, but I think he had to get some machining done (aparently its
slightly ligher than using a rear disc conversion bracket)
can I ask why you'd want to do it the other way round ?
[Edited on 10/10/2012 by mcerd1]
I have a kit car with Sierra rear end and 9" drums. In its earlier years someone cut down the length of the wheel studs (dont even ask me why)
then they or someone else fitted alloy wheels that are much thicker at the bolt holes than steel wheels.
The overall result is that the wheel nuts are held on with only about 9 complete threads and I dont consider this very safe.
I could take off my flanges and replace the wheel studs but I figured in case of problems if I buy 'new' flanges I could replace the studs
on them and just swop over.
A cheap pair of disc flanges were up for sale and it got me thinking I could use those.
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bumpy
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posted on 10/10/12 at 10:55 AM |
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Thanks guys, glad I found this forum - more responses in shorter time than any other I have tried.
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loggyboy
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| posted on 10/10/12 at 10:59 AM |
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9 threads seems reasonable to me.
Mistral Motorsport
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bumpy
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| posted on 10/10/12 at 11:07 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by loggyboy
9 threads seems reasonable to me.
Just on the limit I would say particularly when vigorous cornering, but I may have to fit 5mm spacers to stop the big tyres scuffing the bodywork and
will definitely require longer studs then.
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mcerd1
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| posted on 10/10/12 at 12:28 PM |
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from memory you might be able to knock the studs out without removing the hubs (depending on the upright you may need to take the hub carrier off)
i.e. turn the hub so that one will come out, knock it out then turn 90 deg. for the next one......
you've nothign to loose by trying it
off the top of my head - normally you'd want the nuts screwed on by the std. nuts length + ~2 threads - can't remember exactly what it
should be for wheel nuts, but a bolt dia. +2 threads should be more than enough.
the studs have an M12x1.5 thread, so every turn is 1.5mm, so that would be around 9.3 full turns of the nut
rally design are quite good for the longer studs and spacers etc: http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/index.php?cPath=731_735
[Edited on 10/10/2012 by mcerd1]
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bumpy
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| posted on 10/10/12 at 12:34 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by mcerd1
from memory you might be able to knock the studs out without removing the hubs (depending on the upright you may need to take the hub carrier off)
i.e. turn the hub so that one will come out, knock it out then turn 90 deg. for the next one......
off the top of my head - normally you'd want the nuts screwed on by about a std. nuts length + ~2 threads (the studs have an M12x1.5 thread, so
every turn is 1.5mm)
rally design are quite good for the longer studs: http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/index.php?cPath=731_735
Thanks for the reference for buying longer threads.
My first thought was to knock out the studs in situ and replace. There is enough room in the drum for the longer threads to be poked in from behind.
But, I have read a lot of people have difficulty in knocking out the studs in situ without proper support behind the flange, unless there are any
tricks of the trade I have missed? Heat cold etc.
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mcerd1
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| posted on 10/10/12 at 12:50 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by bumpyThere is enough room in the drum for the longer threads to be poked in from behind
But, I have read a lot of people have difficulty in knocking out the studs in situ without proper support behind the flange, unless there are any
tricks of the trade I have missed? Heat cold etc.
oops I forgot about the back plate (I've got discs on mine)
if you need to take the hub off it'll only cost you a pair of hub nuts (and the loan of a big torque wrench if you've not got your own)
the studs will come out easier too if you've got a vice to support the flange against
oh and if the disc type flanges are no good to you they may be ood for someone else on here (to convert a 5 stud granada rear to a 4 stud sierra one
for example)
[Edited on 10/10/2012 by mcerd1]
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bumpy
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| posted on 10/10/12 at 02:54 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by mcerd1
quote: Originally posted by bumpyThere is enough room in the drum for the longer threads to be poked in from behind
But, I have read a lot of people have difficulty in knocking out the studs in situ without proper support behind the flange, unless there are any
tricks of the trade I have missed? Heat cold etc.
oops I forgot about the back plate (I've got discs on mine)
if you need to take the hub off it'll only cost you a pair of hub (and the loan of a big torque wrench if you've not got your own) nuts
and the studs will come out easier too if you've got a vice to support the flange against
[Edited on 10/10/2012 by mcerd1]
My car has the nuts that are bent over slightly into a keyway. Can they be replaced directly with Nylocs?
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mcerd1
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| posted on 10/10/12 at 03:17 PM |
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do you mean like this:
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bumpy
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| posted on 11/10/12 at 07:44 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by mcerd1
do you mean like this:
Yes just like that (though that looks to have been hammered down very enthusiastically). Will a nyloc nut go straight on this thread?
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bumpy
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| posted on 11/10/12 at 07:46 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by mcerd1
oh and if the disc type flanges are no good to you they may be ood for someone else on here (to convert a 5 stud granada rear to a 4 stud sierra one
for example)
[Edited on 10/10/2012 by mcerd1]
Good idea - here they are.
[Edited on 11/10/12 by bumpy]
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loggyboy
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| posted on 11/10/12 at 07:55 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by bumpy
Yes just like that (though that looks to have been hammered down very enthusiastically). Will a nyloc nut go straight on this thread?
The thread is reversed on the left hand side, so unless ford made nyloc versions you might find them hard to find.
Mistral Motorsport
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bumpy
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| posted on 11/10/12 at 07:58 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by loggyboy
quote: Originally posted by bumpy
Yes just like that (though that looks to have been hammered down very enthusiastically). Will a nyloc nut go straight on this thread?
The thread is reversed on the left hand side, so unless ford made nyloc versions you might find them hard to find.
I'm sure they did, but do they fit?
ford sierra/escort cosworth rear hub nut n/s | eBay
[Edited on 11/10/12 by bumpy]
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bumpy
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| posted on 11/10/12 at 08:01 AM |
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I'm having trouble with putting a link in my post above so search ebay for - sierra COSWORTH drive hubs flanges 4 stud RS500 4x4 2WD autograss
track rally
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mcerd1
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| posted on 11/10/12 at 08:55 AM |
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most sierra's had nylocs, not sure if the cossie nuts are the same as yours or not
any decent motorfactor should be able to get you a pair of hub nuts, but as a worst case you normally get 2 nuts with each wheel bearing kit (1 L/H
& 1 R/H)
but if you've got the ones in the pic above I'd just re-use them
the pic is actually of a pug 106, I used to be able to re-use my 106 hub nuts 3 - 4 times each, I only replaced them when the bit you tap down (or
'stake' ) had started to crack/split
if they had been really well staked I'd use a screwdriver in the slot (keyway) to bend them back out a bit before you loosen them it makes it a
bit easier to come off
[Edited on 11/10/2012 by mcerd1]
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bumpy
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| posted on 12/10/12 at 08:32 AM |
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Thanks for all the replys guys but I still dont have an answer to the question.
In terms of thread size on the half shaft, are 'bend over' nuts and Nyloc nuts interchangeable?
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