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Author: Subject: coil over spring collar repercussions
bi22le

posted on 27/10/12 at 09:51 PM Reply With Quote
coil over spring collar repercussions

Due to me not getting booked in before my track day at Procomp I had a little fiddle. . .

I understand about pre-load and corner weighting but have a thought in my head that I can achieve good corner weight with the collars in different places. Its the relationship in height between the different collars that equal out the weight at each corner not the actual position on the shock. Example: As long as Right rear collar is 1" lower than right left collar then it will be ok regardless of height on the shock.

If this is the case what and where would you start? Collar low and wind in?

Any other advice?

Any other little nuggets of info.





Track days ARE the best thing since sliced bread, until I get a supercharger that is!

Please read my ring story:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/13/viewthread.php?tid=139152&page=1

Me doing a sub 56sec lap around Brands Indy. I need a geo set up! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHksfvIGB3I

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mark chandler

posted on 27/10/12 at 10:10 PM Reply With Quote
Imagine the car as a 4 legged table on an uneven floor, it will rock with two legs slightly off the ground, add a beer mat to make up the gap and you now have a wobble free table but all the weight is still only on two opposing corners.

Your engine is not central, however it is offset by your body weight, however it is highly unlightly that it would be balanced with all the collars in the same place across axles.

To do mine I purchased 4 x analogue scales (they will spin past 20 stone) at £4.99 from home base, loaded them with weight and zeroed when holding 20 stone.

Next found a really flat floor and parked the car upon the scales, then using a couple lumps of wood cut to the correct lengths set the ride height (with 13 stone ballast in the drivers seat).

Now just twiddled the collars until adding opposite corners gave the same readings while retaining the ride height.

Then to check moved the scales around wheels, they were all wilthin a kilo of each other


It is very accurate, if you sit in the car and lean forward you can see the front axle loading up maybe 4kg and the rear lightening up.

Locost indeed



Regards Mark

[Edited on 27/10/12 by mark chandler]

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bi22le

posted on 27/10/12 at 10:45 PM Reply With Quote
Cheers Mark. So to clear up a little.
1 - The car can be set up with collars in any position as long as they are relative. The position on the shock dictates ride height.
2 - the diagonal corners should be matched and not left and right? Surely if left and right match the diagonal will also match?





Track days ARE the best thing since sliced bread, until I get a supercharger that is!

Please read my ring story:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/13/viewthread.php?tid=139152&page=1

Me doing a sub 56sec lap around Brands Indy. I need a geo set up! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHksfvIGB3I

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snapper

posted on 28/10/12 at 07:37 AM Reply With Quote
The problem is that moving the spring collar will effect all the others, mostly the diagonally opposite less so the opposite on the same axle and even less on the same side
But they will be affected
Set all platforms to achieve the best ride height with a very slight down bias at the front
Then it's about changing one platform at a time but noting the effect on all 4 scales





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mark chandler

posted on 28/10/12 at 09:03 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by bi22le
Cheers Mark. So to clear up a little.
1 - The car can be set up with collars in any position as long as they are relative. The position on the shock dictates ride height.
2 - the diagonal corners should be matched and not left and right? Surely if left and right match the diagonal will also match?


Yes, as my table leg analogy you need each diagnoal pair taking the same weight, the collars will be in different places on your car when correctly set up. it took me a couple of hours to set up mine as you twiddle up one corner all the others change.

Tape measures are hard to use so two blocks of wood, one 4" and the other 4.5" to poke under the chassis makes things much easier (if that's your chosen ride height).

Just make sure the floor is really flat, even a few mm will change things.

For ballast I used old 25 litre drums filled with water as no warm bodies around who wanted to sit in the seat.

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Peteff

posted on 28/10/12 at 09:54 AM Reply With Quote
To do a proper job though it has to be taken off the scales and rolled after each adjustment then put back on which would take hours.





yours, Pete

I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.

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