steve m
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| posted on 10/11/12 at 09:56 AM |
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Front suspension problem
History lesson first!
Up to last year, i had sorted my car to drive straight and handle steer etc in a manor that was acceptable
so, it was easy to drive with no hidden vices, assuming it was being driven safetly !
however last winter i pulled the offside suspension right off and placed all the packing washers all in order of were they came from, on a tray under
the car, for safe keeping
all good so far!
a good clean up and paint of all the wishbones stub axles etc, and then, not sure how kicked the tray, resulting in all my washers bolts etc strewn
all over the place!
Bollox
anyway, all was assembled, back to what i thought was roughley were they went, along with a new top ball joint
yet the car, now permantley steers right, not a lot, but does need a left hand down hold on the steering wheel
The near side was also done, but lessons learned, so all back to orig spec
So, what could i of done? to much or little castor? or camber?
I will add, that the car pull to the right is worse under braking, but it is deninatly not a brake issue, as both wheels rotate for the same amount
when spun
regards
steve
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Fred W B
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| posted on 10/11/12 at 10:04 AM |
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You don't happen to have a picture of the area before you took it apart where you might be able to see the washer detail?
Cheers
Fred W B
You can do it quickly. You can do it cheap. You can do it right. – Pick any two.
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steve m
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| posted on 10/11/12 at 10:16 AM |
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Fred, that would of made life sooooooooo much easier, but no !
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britishtrident
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| posted on 10/11/12 at 10:40 AM |
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Camber first as it is the easiest and it up sets the toe-setting if it is changed.
Then try decreasing the the castor by a couple of washers on the wheel you were working on --- if no change try it the other way
If the car still steers right shorten the left hand track rod by 1/2 turn and lengthen the right hand track rod by the same amount.
Even if any of the above fixes the problem I would check the toe across the axle.
I recently had to set the toe-in and re-centre the steering on a tintop after a subframe change --- it was well off-centre even though the
subframe was manufactured on the same jigs.
Tyres getting swapped around can also cause this sort of problem.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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steve m
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| posted on 10/11/12 at 12:09 PM |
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Thanks BT, will try that later
regards
steve
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snapper
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| posted on 10/11/12 at 12:40 PM |
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Rear toe problem
Get it measured, repack and test
I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)
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steve m
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| posted on 10/11/12 at 01:18 PM |
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Snapper,
The rear was never touched, so in theory, out of the equasion
BT, just to get this right, but more castor will mean the steering "falling into a turn" ?
Steve
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britishtrident
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| posted on 10/11/12 at 09:59 PM |
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Because of the fairly large scrub radius any difference in castor between the two sides will have a bigger effect.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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mark chandler
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| posted on 10/11/12 at 11:19 PM |
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Mixed up shims ? Are these used to locate the wishbones, if so check that each bone is in the sme relative position as its opposite.
Just hold a straight edge against the ends of the wishbones! It should be around 7 degrees off vertical, if one is more or less than the other it will
try and turn.
Lots of angle say 12 degrees and it will self centre heavily, 0 degrees and it will stop self centreing altogether.
The top bone should be behind the lower when viewed from above.
To prove tyres swap left and right over and see if it pulls the other way, I had this recently on an old tyre it was as if the tread had delaminated
from the carcass  that was on a very expensive Bridgestone.
Regards Mark
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