Paul (Notts)
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 posted on 4/6/05 at 08:01 PM |
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CV joint - I give up!
Just removed the lubro joint off the end of my sierra drive shaft, stripped it, Cleaned it and then attempted to rebuild it!
I now have one ball bearing and a stuck CV joint.
I think it would be much less stressfull to hope the rest are OK and replace this one with a new one on monday.
( more money ! )
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Liam
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| posted on 4/6/05 at 08:33 PM |
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Naaaaaaahh!!!
I stripped all my CVs down, cleaned each little ball and cage and put them all back together. You can do it! Getting that last ball back in is the
hardest - I cant quite remember any specific technique - only that it is all a bit stiff. Some grease definately helped get it all back together and
when you've done it, it will be a bit stiffer than the old joint unless you have each bit in exactly the same way as before - it's like it
will need running in again.
You'll get it back together, but as for doing the others, I'd be inclined to leave them if they're fine. I took mine apart more out
of curiosity and cos I have a sick love of taking things apart and cleaning each bit!
Good luck,
Liam
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theconrodkid
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| posted on 4/6/05 at 09:39 PM |
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put the inner cage at 30 deg to the outer ,fit all the balls and return it to its original plane
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
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locoboy
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| posted on 4/6/05 at 09:58 PM |
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So precise conrod 
Can just see everyone now digging in their old school bag to find the clear plastic semi circular protractor covered in tipex and lining everything up
at spot on 30 degrees!
ATB
Locoboy
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theconrodkid
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| posted on 4/6/05 at 10:04 PM |
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yup
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
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wilkingj
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| posted on 4/6/05 at 10:41 PM |
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Hope you put the balls back in the same hole in the cage, and that lot back in the same hole in the casting... or You will get accelerated wear. as
they have worn the balls / cages / housings together. Putting them back in a different holes / places will cause it to wear faster.
Mark everything before taking it apart.
I got a bit of wood, and drilled a hole to hold each ball bearing , and the cage, so I could re-assemble them in the same place.
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
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Liam
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| posted on 4/6/05 at 10:51 PM |
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Bah humbug!
How can putting them together randomly cause them to wear any faster than when they were new? Way I see it, they'll just need to run in for a
while until they have worn nicely into their new positions, just as if they have been newly assembled in a factory.
Well i hope so anyway cos all my shafts (and I have four!) have been put back together randomly.
Liam
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theconrodkid
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| posted on 4/6/05 at 11:06 PM |
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hm random,bit like my life really,they will wear quicker than if they had been done properly but as you prob wont be doing the millage and its not my
car i dont think it will bother me
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
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Cita
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| posted on 5/6/05 at 12:29 PM |
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 5/6/05 at 01:58 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Liam
Bah humbug!
How can putting them together randomly cause them to wear any faster than when they were new?
In the same way that mixing up cam followers will cause accelerated cam and follower wear!
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andkilde
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| posted on 5/6/05 at 09:51 PM |
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Don't know about accelerated wear from improper reassembly -- though I usually replace the ball bearings with new. I've opened up the
cages with a carbide bit in the die grinder on a few that were overly snug as well.
I've broken a fair few in my day but they usually die from broken engine mounts (front drivers) or perished boots which sling all the grease out
and replace it with lovely rocks, dirt & water.
I've never done a Ford one, but on Mini ones there is a pair of oval holes in the cage which must be lined up properly to start it all back
together -- then it just down to angling the centre race enough to pop each ball in in-turn, requires a bit more brute force than feels comfortable, a
plastic mallet can be helpful for whacking the balls into place.
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DarrenW
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| posted on 6/6/05 at 09:02 AM |
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All bearings go through a matching process when made. OEM parts are far more rigorous than aftermarket. This is to control radial and axial clearance,
turning torque, noise etc etc.
This is the official line - however i have also seen aftermarket assy lines where they are assembled by hand and no measurements taken afterwards.
Therefore it probably doesnt make that much difference and whats the worst can happen?? - freshly cleaned bearing (CV, UJ, roller etc etc) wears out
and needs replacing later. Not a big deal (as long as it doesnt suffer catastrophic failure) and they dont cost too much.
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James
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| posted on 6/6/05 at 01:06 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Paul (Notts)
Just removed the lubro joint off the end of my sierra drive shaft, stripped it, Cleaned it and then attempted to rebuild it!
I now have one ball bearing and a stuck CV joint.
I think it would be much less stressfull to hope the rest are OK and replace this one with a new one on monday.
( more money ! )
Don't give up at this stage!
There's a knack which once you've got it's really easy.
I spent ages re-assembling my first one. In the end I took it to a mate who had done them on Formula 1 cars! He showed me how.
The first thing to remember is that the inner has to be rotated to a specific point relative to the outer casing. It's very easy to have it
60°(?) degrees out. So if you're still having difficulty then rotate it a notch.
The other thing to make it easier is mount your drive shaft in the vice vertically. You can then sit the inner over the shaft and use the shaft to
twist the inner around inside the joint to get it in a position to pop the ball in place.
By the 4th one they'll be so easy you'll wish you had more to do!
Hope that helps,
James
EDIT: P.S. Remember to keep it really clean- any grit/swarf in there will kill the joint real quick. If you drop a ball then clean it properly before
inserting it.
CV greasing everything will make it easier to assemble but you're more likely to drop the balls on the floor- I work above a clean aluminium pie
tray so if I dropped one they'd be fine.
Also, put the right amount of grease in- too much and it'll spray put of the CV boot all over the car boot area. Pack it in untill it squidges
out the opposite side.
[Edited on 6/6/05 by James]
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"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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James
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| posted on 6/6/05 at 01:14 PM |
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http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/photos.php?action=showphoto&photo=cv_pre_assembly1.jpg
You can see from that how the narrow grooves of the inner joint line up the wider grooves of the outer.
HTH,
James
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"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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Rorty
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| posted on 7/6/05 at 04:09 AM |
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I suspect you have misaligned the housing and race and that's why a ball has become stuck. You need to align the races as James says, otherwise
they can go together sometimes, but there will be no angularity or plunge possible.
I agree with cam followers, but CVs aren't as finickity with mis-matched balls as long as there is no pitting in either the balls or the knuckle
races.
I normally fit .02mm undersized balls to allow plenty of free movement without any slop or rattle.
There are a couple of pages on my site about tuning CV joints and axles if you're interested:
LINK.
Cheers, Rorty.
"Faster than a speeding Pullet".
PLEASE DON'T U2U ME IF YOU WANT A QUICK RESPONSE. TRY EMAILING ME INSTEAD!
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