Danozeman
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| posted on 23/6/05 at 10:59 AM |
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Shock abs. part no's
Morning, lovely day.
Does any one know the part no's of the Gaz shocks for a locost?
Dan
Built the purple peril!! Let the modifications begin!!
http://www.eastangliankitcars.co.uk
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andylancaster3000
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| posted on 23/6/05 at 11:19 AM |
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I've just bought some from ebay. They're a couple of inches shorter than what the book says at 12"open 9"closed, but when
lined up they seem ok (on a book locost). There doesn't seem to be any part numbers on the boxed but stamped on the dampers is 130-085 B12 E12.
The B12 and E12 may be wrong as they are slightly covered by a sticker I can't get off without damaging!
Hope this helps,
Andy
Edit: If you look on ebay there a lots of brand new sets of 4 at about the right length, dyno tested (with dyno result sheet included) with a c
spanner, going for about £150.
[Edited on 23/6/05 by andylancaster3000]
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andylancaster3000
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| posted on 23/6/05 at 11:25 AM |
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For example these 14"X9.5" units:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=40192&item=7981394916&rd=1
Andy.
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NS Dev
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| posted on 23/6/05 at 01:07 PM |
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problem is if you use dampers that are too long in terms of "open" length, the transit balljoints on the top wishbones will run out of
travel before you hit the droop stop, causing damage with potentially nasty consequences!!!
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DavidM
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| posted on 23/6/05 at 06:21 PM |
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It depends on the positions of your brackets. Set the car at it's normal ride height and measure the bracket centres. This will give you the mid
travel length for the shocks you need. If you are buying new tell Gaz this dimension and they will be able to tell you what length you need. Typically
if it is 11.5" then for instance you could use 10" closed 13" open.
The back often requires a different length to the front.
David
Proportion is Everything
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britishtrident
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| posted on 23/6/05 at 06:31 PM |
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Was a thread on this a couple of months back apparently some makes of Tranist drag link have a more articulation than others.
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Danozeman
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| posted on 23/6/05 at 07:30 PM |
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MM I hadent considered the travel in the ball joints.
Dan
Built the purple peril!! Let the modifications begin!!
http://www.eastangliankitcars.co.uk
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NS Dev
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| posted on 24/6/05 at 11:01 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by DavidM
It depends on the positions of your brackets. Set the car at it's normal ride height and measure the bracket centres. This will give you the mid
travel length for the shocks you need. If you are buying new tell Gaz this dimension and they will be able to tell you what length you need. Typically
if it is 11.5" then for instance you could use 10" closed 13" open.
The back often requires a different length to the front.
David
This is a load of crap!!!! The mid point is totally irrelevant!!!!
You need the open length of the shock correct to stop the "suspension linkages" (whatever they comprise of!) running out of travel, and
the closed length to do the same in the opposite direction.
Ride height you consider afterwards, as this is set by spring platforms!!!!!!!!!!
[Edited on 24/6/05 by NS Dev]
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DavidM
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| posted on 24/6/05 at 12:09 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by NS Dev
This is a load of crap!!!! The mid point is totally irrelevant!!!!
You need the open length of the shock correct to stop the "suspension linkages" (whatever they comprise of!) running out of travel, and
the closed length to do the same in the opposite direction.
Ride height you consider afterwards, as this is set by spring platforms!!!!!!!!!!
[Edited on 24/6/05 by NS Dev]
I'm sorry you disagree, but this is the advice given by GAZ. I'm assuming as they make shock absorbers they probably know something about
them.
Obviously you would need to ensure that the total length of travel is within the boundaries of your suspension, but the bump and rebound travel of the
shock should be equal each side of the ride height.
David
Proportion is Everything
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