erwe
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| posted on 17/8/05 at 04:02 PM |
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mechanical handbrake
How does this work?
http://www.marlinracing.co.uk/news_marlin.htm
With a lever or is the cable pulling the pads together?
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theconrodkid
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| posted on 17/8/05 at 04:10 PM |
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looks like a plate goes behind the pads and the cable pulls them to the disc.
1 it wont pull straight and put pressure on the whole surface of the pad.
2 dont like the "solderless nipple" idea on the cable.
3 the pads would need to be pretty worn for the plate to fit or the plate would be too thin and bend.
nice idea tho
imho of course
who cares who wins
pass the pork pies
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mookaloid
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| posted on 17/8/05 at 04:13 PM |
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Looks like the cable is pulling the pads together using some extra backplates behind each of the pads.
Ingenious but simple I would say....
Oops beaten to it - must type quicker
[Edited on 17/8/05 by mookaloid]
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uklee70
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| posted on 17/8/05 at 04:32 PM |
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I've been looking at this system for my car
As it seems hi spec can't finish their system and KAD do one but just for a mini
£100 for the basic kit
What wait saving and brake performance will be gained by doing this
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scutter
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| posted on 17/8/05 at 05:11 PM |
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Buy this months Kitcar and it's explained in there,
The plates have a ridge on them that makes the plate contact the whole pad. They suggest using part worn pads if space is a problem not as important
as the rear do little work.
ATB Dan.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 17/8/05 at 07:07 PM |
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Would anybody actually part with money for this ?
Why are more and more people obsessed with the size of thier calipers ?
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gazza285
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| posted on 17/8/05 at 07:39 PM |
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Get some calipers off a Citroen ZX Volcane (and probably others), small, alloy (well, mainly alloy) and already equipped with a handbrake mechanism.
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Syd Bridge
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| posted on 17/8/05 at 07:50 PM |
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Looking at the pics of this'ingenious' solution, give it a little bit of dirt and surface rust, and the words 'chocolate' and
'teapot' come to mind.
If you work out the forces and then the fulcrums, you'll realise very quickly that the system will loose its effectiveness very quickly, if it
works effectively from the start?
If you want something simple and effective, copy the Jag system, but in a lighter way. Pretty easy really, if you can build a car!
Syd.
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NS Dev
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| posted on 17/8/05 at 10:00 PM |
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We ran a "system" very much like that on my mate's mid engined rally Nova.........................Of course it didn't work,
but there were cables there which moved, and when you pulled the (Hydraulic +mechanical) lever the rear wheels stopped fine!!!!
We just used it as an MOT and RAC scruntineer bodge. The cables never did a thing, but because they went tight when you pulled the lever, you
couldn't tell that it was the hydraulics and not the cables doing the work!
It certainly never failed scrutineering,in two years rallying in the BTRDA forest championships.
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Rorty
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| posted on 18/8/05 at 05:24 AM |
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This is an ancient trick and how they have the nerve to apply for a patent for it I don't know! 
If it's the same as the approach I'm familliar with, the trick is in adding a spacer between the caliper halves which then allows room for
the new "levers" which have a sort of "C" shape bent into their lower edge. Therefore, when the levers are squeezed together,
the heels of the "Cs" act as the pivots and the elongated bottom open ends of the "Cs" swing out and put pressure centrally on
the pads.
They'll be wanting to patent screwdrivers next! 
Cheers, Rorty.
"Faster than a speeding Pullet".
PLEASE DON'T U2U ME IF YOU WANT A QUICK RESPONSE. TRY EMAILING ME INSTEAD!
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britishtrident
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| posted on 18/8/05 at 02:50 PM |
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To state the obvious even if it did by some miracle (oink oink flap flap) meet the efficiency requirements for parking brake the operation of the
parking brake must not interfere with the operation of the service brake.
It took car manufacturers decades to make parking brakes work properly on disc brakes, even today some manufacturers use hand brakes that work on
cast iron brake shoes within the inner hub of the disc.
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ERP
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| posted on 18/8/05 at 09:41 PM |
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Wilwood offers what they call a "Mechnical Spot Caliper", which could probably be made to work with existing handbrake cables.
http://www.4wheelonline.com/Products.aspx?CategoryId=1551&ProductId=5348
Obviously you'd need some sort of bracket made up.
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