Cheffy
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| posted on 19/4/06 at 05:25 PM |
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Would these rod ends be suitable for trailing arms?
Would these be up to the job?
Linky thing
TIA,
Mart.
PS. If I was going to screw these straight into the trailing arm ends with lock nuts (R/H thread at one end and L/H thread at the other so I could
set the arm lengths precisely), how do I work out what internal/external diameter tubing I need? These particular rod ends are 1/2 inch x 20 UNF -
3A
[Edited on 19/4/06 by Cheffy]
Farts are like Rock'n'Roll. You love your own but you hate everybody else's. Lemmy, Motorhead.
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flak monkey
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| posted on 19/4/06 at 05:27 PM |
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Yes.
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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Cheffy
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| posted on 19/4/06 at 05:32 PM |
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Bl**dy hell that was quick -
Thanks Flak Monkey.
Farts are like Rock'n'Roll. You love your own but you hate everybody else's. Lemmy, Motorhead.
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flak monkey
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| posted on 19/4/06 at 05:37 PM |
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Someone will come along and say they arent now, just you wait
As for your thread sizes the tapping drill sized for 1/2"UNF is 11.4mm. So just add the wall thickness to 5.7mm to get the radius of the
tube.
What you will probably need to do is turn some inserts to weld into the ends of the tubes. Also, bear in mind the cost of a LH tap, they can be quite
pricey.
David
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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big_wasa
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| posted on 19/4/06 at 07:06 PM |
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Ive been looking at these. Is there any reason why you cant use R/H all round ?
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flak monkey
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| posted on 19/4/06 at 07:11 PM |
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Nope. Except you would have to undo one end of the trailing arm to adjust its length.
David
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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Cheffy
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| posted on 19/4/06 at 07:14 PM |
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Not really.
It's just that if one end of each trailing arm had a R/H rod end and a L/H rod end at the other end it would simply be a matter of rotating the
trailing arm one way or the other to wind the rod ends in and out to get all four arms exactly the same length. This would then be fixed in place with
lock nuts.
Given the importance stressed in previous posts regarding getting the trailing arms exactly the same length it seemed like a good idea.
And no, it wasn't my idea!
Cheers,
Mart.
Farts are like Rock'n'Roll. You love your own but you hate everybody else's. Lemmy, Motorhead.
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big_wasa
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| posted on 19/4/06 at 07:16 PM |
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yep that does seem like a good idea 
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Cheffy
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| posted on 19/4/06 at 07:28 PM |
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According to the description on eBay they come in packs of ten but you can select any combination of threads.
An average price of £3.80 seems pretty good. In actual fact I need 12 anyway (6 of each) as I'm going with inboard front shocks and need rod
ends for the tie rod between the inner and outer wishbones.
The only problem is the one David raises about the cost of the L/H tap. As I don't have the kit to do the tapping myself I shall have to get it
done elsewhere anyway. I assume that a decent engineering outfit would have a 1/2" L/H tap?
Mart.
Farts are like Rock'n'Roll. You love your own but you hate everybody else's. Lemmy, Motorhead.
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Cheffy
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| posted on 19/4/06 at 08:03 PM |
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Ahh......found it. Credit to Craig1410 for the idea.
Hope you don't mind me quoting you Craig. Just wanted to make sure the right person got the credit!
quote:
Out of interest, my links are adjustable and have a left hand threaded rod end at one end and a right hand threaded rod end at the other (with
locknuts both ends). This means I can adjust the length in situ by loosening the locknuts and turning the arm itself. To get them all the same length
I just made a jig from a piece of square tubing with two 1/2" bolts welded to it the desired distance apart. It is then just a case of adjusting
the length of each link until they slide on to the jig. Any subsequent adjustment is done on a 1/2 turn at a time basis equally on each link.
Mart
Farts are like Rock'n'Roll. You love your own but you hate everybody else's. Lemmy, Motorhead.
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JoelP
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| posted on 19/4/06 at 08:33 PM |
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seems a rather cheap price, which is always good, but good joints arent usually cheap. Maybe worth some research or a few good questions, ie what
liner and are they 2 or 3 piece? Or whatever it is nick keeps describing his good ones as!
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Syd Bridge
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| posted on 20/4/06 at 08:12 AM |
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Those joints ARE cheap, but from the description fairly low spec. 4.49 tons radial load is low...ish for a 1/2" rodend.
Still, that means you could hold up 8 or more locosts on one end alone. More than strong enough.
Contrary to what all of the armchair 'EXPERTS' will now scream about, try and get them bronze/brass or metal lined, with the
ability to fit grease nipples.
When you grease them, it forces out any contamination, then make sure you wipe off the excess squeezed out. This will give them a life longer than the
car. A little care and maintenance goes a long way. Better still, fit rubber boots over them.
The competition cars I work with use only metal/metal joints, and they are like new after a good few days of rough handling.
The teflon lined items tend to flog out, then spit the liners out and are, obviously, quite sloppy very suddenly. Think about it, what is harder and
tougher? Metal, or teflon(which is only a plastic after all is considered)?
Track racecars use teflon lined for the 'no maintenance', but replace them every race. Ask yourself why.
Cheers,
Syd.
[Edited on 20/4/06 by Syd Bridge]
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NS Dev
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| posted on 20/4/06 at 09:00 AM |
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Will second the use of metal on metal joints.
I have teflon or carbon fibre injected liner ones on my grasser and they are fine, but on the rally car we used to knacker ptfe ones really fast, but
metal on metal ones lasted fine.
only prob with using boots is getting really good ones! Some don't fit that well and are worse than no boot at all as water gets in and
can't get out, then the joint corrodes while the car is stood and the joint then eats itself.
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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Cousin Cleotis
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| posted on 20/4/06 at 09:57 AM |
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ive thought about using a universal CV joint boot to cover the entire joint and bracket. it wouldnt be pretty, but should offer good protection.
Paul
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wildchild
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| posted on 20/4/06 at 12:12 PM |
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If you used two right hand threads, not only would you have to disassemble to change the length, but also you would not have 'infinitely
variable' adjustment - because you would have to rotate at least half a turn each time.
But I don't know if you could set four trailing arms to within a 1/4 of a thread pitch anyway. So it's probably irrelevant.
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Cheffy
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| posted on 20/4/06 at 04:56 PM |
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Just developing this thread a little more.......
With regard to fastening the rod ends to the trailing arms, and just picking up on what David (Flak Monkey) said:-
quote:
What you will probably need to do is turn some inserts to weld into the ends of the tubes.
Would it be bad practice to weld nuts onto the ends of the trailing arms instead of having to tap the ends. Only not having the lathe and left
and right hand taps I just thought it would be the simpler option.
Obviously these would still be used in conjunctin with lock nuts as previously mentioned.
Thanks again for all the input,
Cheers Guys,
Mart.
Farts are like Rock'n'Roll. You love your own but you hate everybody else's. Lemmy, Motorhead.
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Triton
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| posted on 21/4/06 at 08:29 AM |
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I'm sure Rally Design sell top hat bushes machined 1/2" UNF in both R/H and L/H thread even sell the locking nuts and rubber boots for
them.
My Daughter has taken over production of the damn fine Triton race seats and her contact email is emmatrs@live.co.uk.
www.tritonraceseats.com
www.hairyhedgehog.com
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Cheffy
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| posted on 21/4/06 at 10:53 AM |
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Ordered this morning!!!
Thanks Triton.
Farts are like Rock'n'Roll. You love your own but you hate everybody else's. Lemmy, Motorhead.
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