se7ensport
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| posted on 28/8/06 at 05:33 PM |
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Safe max revs for standard 2.0 Pinto?
Anyone know? I'm struggling to find the answer.
Cheers
Alex
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westf27
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| posted on 28/8/06 at 05:46 PM |
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around 5800 continuous max 6050
555
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locoboy
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| posted on 28/8/06 at 05:51 PM |
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I have been told 6K is about the limit for stock engine.
Mine went there no problems but not for long periods of time!
ATB
Locoboy
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se7ensport
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| posted on 28/8/06 at 05:58 PM |
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thats good to know as only been taking it to 5.5 as its a completly new engine and i'm giving it a chance to run in, I'm wondering if my
alpha ignition system already has the rev limiter set, anyone know if this is how they come?
thanks again
Alex
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westf27
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| posted on 28/8/06 at 06:00 PM |
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see attached, must be right came from haynes !
555
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westf27
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| posted on 28/8/06 at 06:10 PM |
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were the feck did that go
555
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westf27
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| posted on 28/8/06 at 06:12 PM |
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net/nae engine code 5800
nes 5850
nrb/n4a 6050
max cont. speed
555
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 28/8/06 at 08:48 PM |
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My N4A injected pinto limits out at 6000, it gets there just tto damn quick
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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westf27
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| posted on 28/8/06 at 10:04 PM |
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mines the same,got a 4.11 diff,5mph in 1st floor it and rip up the tarmac...love it
555
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Dusty
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| posted on 28/8/06 at 10:27 PM |
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Standard engine 6700, injection engine 6900 continuous. (According to Des Hammil) I had my rev limiter set at 6500 for 15000 miles and it never went
bang.
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omega 24 v6
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| posted on 28/8/06 at 10:53 PM |
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I've seen the hotrods maxing out at 8300 and usually they blow soon after.
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mcerd1
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| posted on 29/8/06 at 11:31 AM |
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I've been told by a few people that 6500 to maybe 6900~7000 is ok for a 205 block injection engine if you get the bottom end balanced properly
The stock cars can take a ballanced bottom end to 8500rpm (max) and get up to 180bhp (but no power before 4000rpm, and re-built every weekend)
I'm using a cossie crank and conrods (and forged pistons if the budget will stretch to them) so I was thinking my limit could be around 7500 and
upto 8000 max - does that sound about right ??
(not that I'll need that much, to start with at least)
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david walker
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| posted on 30/8/06 at 08:03 PM |
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F2 Stock Cars, Superstox, 2.0 Hotrods Saloon Stock cars etc., have to run the std components and to be fair last a fair while if well built. They run
to just short of 8000 for long periods of time, in difficult conditions. Nevertheless a decent engine will last a season.
With Cossie rods and crank in a roadgoing car you would be OK up to about 8000. More on short bursts.
The Pinto crank is actually quite strong, rods are the weakest part of the equation followed by the pistons. Rods "come through the
block"! You haven't seen many broken cranks.
Don't forget if you try to fit standard type Pinto pistons to the Cossie Rods you'll have problems - pressed fit type piston onto a bushed
rod. If you do go that route, e-mail me and I'll explain how its done.
Best of luck, there's nothing wrong with a good old Pinto!
Dave Walker, Race Engine Services - 07957 454659 or 01636 671277
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mcerd1
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| posted on 31/8/06 at 08:37 AM |
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sorry 8000rpm was what the engine builder had built them for (but he reconed most could get to 8500 before they go bang)
I should point out that I only got the cossie crank so that I wouldn't need to dowel the flywheel for peace of mind (cossie cranks have 9 bolts
instead of 6)
but this means you'll either need a lightened cossie flywheel or one of burtons steel ones (made for this conversion)
as mentioned, cossie conrods suit floating pins with circlips (not pinto press fit ones) and while it is possible to convert them - but I'm
going for forged pistons (not a cheep option)
but cossie conrods also have two other problems to overcome:
1- they are 0.060" [1.524mm] longer than the pinto ones, meaning you need to be careful with compression heights of the pistons
2- they have no oil jet drilled in them, so you'll need a cossie spray bar (and matching pump) or the WRC oil jets
Total cost of the special & cossie bottom end parts = £1240 (mind you half of that is the pistons)
not including the bearings, seals & gaskets or all the machining work ! there is just no way I can justify that, and its certainly not locost 
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NS Dev
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| posted on 31/8/06 at 09:39 AM |
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Just another point to add to Dave Walker's explanation, flywheels can come off!
Always use uprated bolts as a minimum, preferably dowel the flywheel as well.
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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david walker
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| posted on 31/8/06 at 11:14 AM |
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If youv'e got the cossie crank, you'll pick up rods and a flywheel for less that £200. You can't make a pinto flywheel fit a cossie
crank.
Bore the block to 92mm, fit 2.8 V6 pistons (which are shorter), have the pistons circlipped to suit the rods, the rod little ends narrowed to suit the
pistons and away you go. Forget the oil spray hole, not an issue.
I have done a couple of these to this exact spec, including a rally car which routinely runs to 7750 (limiter), and has given no problem at all over a
long period of service. When you actually have your car on the road you'll find that, after the initial thrashing about, you'll only be
taking it to about 5k anyway!
Dave Walker, Race Engine Services - 07957 454659 or 01636 671277
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mcerd1
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| posted on 31/8/06 at 12:39 PM |
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I've got a type 9 and choice of a 3.92 or 3.62 diff so 8000rpm gives me 37 or 40 mph in 1st
of course thats just the bottom end and my head and cam choices are going to give me my actual limit (around ~7000 for now)
can you get forged pistons for the 2.8 V6 ?? (I havn't found any yet)
but getting back to the real question (rather than my ott build)
standard carb engine = ____rpm (5800 ??)
ballanced carb engine = ____rpm (6700 ??)
standard injection engine = ____rpm (6050 ??)
ballanced injection engine = ____rpm (6900 ??)
(values in brakets are just my summay of the above)
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david walker
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| posted on 31/8/06 at 01:54 PM |
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Hi again. Sorry but you have missed my point. I thought that cost was going to be an issue with the Pinto? If it was I was suggesting the use of the
V6 pistons - cheap, good match with the cossie rods etc.
If you are going for forged items then just buy some n/a YB Cossie items from Accralite and machine the crowns to suit. They are available in various
diameters.
I still firmly believe the Pinto is a good motor, easily dismissed by many "new kids on the block". That said it isn't good at any
price. If you are going to start spending serious dosh, then you would be better with an XE, K series, Zetec, Duratec or as a more parallel match with
the Pinto, the 8v, 2.0 Vauxhall unit - in my opinion one of the most underated engines still available.
On your rev limits, the only thing I would say is that balancing won't release more revs, or particularly improve its' reliability
(bursting point) at revs. Balancing should be undertaken with a whole package of mods, including lightening the fat old Pinto flywheel! Otherwise
don't look for balancing to do much for you - and I say that as one who owns/operates dynamic balancing equipment for race engines.
Dave Walker, Race Engine Services - 07957 454659 or 01636 671277
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mcerd1
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| posted on 31/8/06 at 02:56 PM |
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quote:
If you are going for forged items then just buy some n/a YB Cossie items from Accralite and machine the crowns to suit. They are available in
various diameters.
Thanks, I thought that was the case
quote:
On your rev limits, the only thing I would say is that balancing won't release more revs, or particularly improve its' reliability
(bursting point) at revs. Balancing should be undertaken with a whole package of mods, including lightening the fat old Pinto flywheel!
fair point, I should really have said 'mod'd' or something instead of just balanced :oops:
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NS Dev
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| posted on 31/8/06 at 03:49 PM |
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Just a quick echo on Mr Walkers statement about the 8v 2.0 vauxhall engine.
A stonking engine, as easy to work on as the pinto, with less foibles and makes similar if not a bit better power, plus its lighter. All the bits are
off the shelf, you just need a £140 bellhousing to join it to a ford box, but £140 is a p*** in the ocean compared to the cost of building a
"decent" 180ish hp 8 valve 2.0 engine.
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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