mistergrumpy
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| posted on 3/1/07 at 08:09 PM |
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Changing CV Boots
Had a sh1t time trying to do this but anyways. I have/had a cone (now destroyed!!) and the stretchy boots but the cone ain't wide enough to go
over the end of the joint. So how do you replace the boots? (bolt on shafts by the way) I did a search and someone said to just undo the circlip on
the end of the shaft. I have a couple of concerns here:
1. It looks like there's 2 circlips, 1 either side of the lobro jointy thing
2. If I undid this joint am I in danger of dropping the ballbearings and the joint being 'handed' and not wanting to back together?
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mark chandler
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| posted on 3/1/07 at 08:29 PM |
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Undo the circlip and it will all come out, ball brearings and retainer.
However I spent ages getting everything back together, it was a right bugger as every combination seemed to fail so when you seperate take notes or a
couple of photos to refer to.
Its like a chinese puzzel once washed !
In hindsite I should have assembled dry then worked in grease as it made a slippery mess.
NB/ cones work but you need lots of pledge on the cone to make it slide, you only get one hit or the CV's covers split so you have to pull over
as quickly as possible.
Regards Mark
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mistergrumpy
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| posted on 3/1/07 at 08:33 PM |
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Had a good go, up and down like but its not split or owt. However, the driveshaft slipped off the workmate and the axle stub went through the wooden
partition wall separating my garage from my neighbour This was just one thing in an otherwise sh1t day. I must've been Genghis Khan or
Hitler in a past life I tell you!!
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DIY Si
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| posted on 3/1/07 at 08:37 PM |
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You can't say I didn't warn you. I said the drive shaft would make a nice hole in something! If you do take them apart, lay the items down
from left to right in the order them come off. This will help no end with re-assembly as you can't forget what order they go on in. Also makes
it easier to keep groups of bits together.
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 3/1/07 at 08:38 PM |
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Don't ask how I know but KY jelly works well when using a cone for fitting gaiters.
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Avoneer
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| posted on 3/1/07 at 09:01 PM |
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Take the circlips off and be done with it.
If they fall apart and you can't get them back together, fetch them over here (45 mins max) and I'll put em back together for you.
Pat...
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mistergrumpy
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| posted on 3/1/07 at 09:11 PM |
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Cheers mate, thanks for that. Think I'll go and have a bash now. No circlip pliers though, I'll have to weld some nails to the pliers.
Bleeding circlip will probably fly off and take my eye out or summat.
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DIY Si
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| posted on 3/1/07 at 09:15 PM |
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In the past I've gone carefully with a pair of screw drivers or similar, that way you can ease them off, rather than having them go flying.
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
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BenB
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| posted on 3/1/07 at 09:52 PM |
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Of course you can get glue-together or bolt-together CV boots.... Pretty jz but they pass MOT and are okay as long as you keep checking them for
cracks...
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craig1410
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| posted on 3/1/07 at 11:03 PM |
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BenB,
With respect to your suggestion I would strongly advise against glue together gaitors as they are a temporary solution at best. I have used them
before to get through MOT but they don't last much longer than the MOT before they fall apart.
...in my experience at least...
I did my driveshafts (lobro type) a little while ago and didn't have much trouble I'm pleased to say. All I did was cut the old boots off,
scraped out the old grease (no washing with petrol or anything) and then removed the end circlip, slid the joint off, slid the new boot on and slid
the joint back. Replaced the circlip and added the grease before securing with a new stainless steel band.
Each shaft took about 20 minutes.
Cheers,
Craig.
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hillbillyracer
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| posted on 4/1/07 at 12:10 AM |
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We've been using the cone setup by RHINO RUBBER CORP for about 4 years at work now. We'd seen others before but didnt think much of them
but the supplier assured us they were better quality than other brands. I havnt seen a one fail yet & sometimes we've stretched them onto
joint that were mabye a bit on the big side.
They come in a box of 12 complete with grease, good quality steel bands & lubricant for the cone but I think only the first box had the cone &
band tool.
I dont know if you can buy them individually so mabye no good for a one off DIY job.
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