nick205
|
| posted on 15/3/07 at 07:09 PM |
|
|
hydraulic brake light switch query
I've got a hydraulic brake light switch fitted in the rear brake circuit, but it seems to take a lot of peddle travel to get it to operate. Had
a couple of people get far too close on the way to and from SVA, but it wasn't picked up during the SVA as a problem.
Would it work better in one of the front barke circuits?
Any experience?
|
|
|
|
|
graememk
|
| posted on 15/3/07 at 07:18 PM |
|
|
mines on the front and works ok, leave it in and but another and fit it, then you have a spare lol.
|
|
|
chriscook
|
| posted on 15/3/07 at 07:25 PM |
|
|
They have a fair reputation of being pants. I used a microswitch on my pedal and it works fine. I know several people who have gone from using an
hydraulic switch to a microswitch too and they now have now problems.
If i were you I'd wire in a microswitch in parallel.
Chris
|
|
|
Guinness
|
| posted on 15/3/07 at 07:29 PM |
|
|
It's quite a common problem Nick!
Firstly the switches are designed to operate within a given pressure range, and as you are discovering it doesn't take much effort to stop an
Indy. (I'm assuming you ditched the servo!) See if you can find a switch that operates at a lower pressure.
Secondly, you're brake lights are much lower than most other road users. My wife nearly wrote the Indy off once when she was following me!
Think about fitting a third high level brake light.
Thirdly, consider wiring in a microswitch into the pedal box as well, so that even light pressure on the pedal gets the lights to come on. I could be
wrong but I think my Audi had 2 things that made the lights come on.
We've had it on trackdays and blats, where someone's brake lights haven't come on and people have got a little close. When we
checked they do work, they just need a bit more effort to come on than we'd like!
Cheers
Mike
|
|
|
nick205
|
| posted on 15/3/07 at 07:43 PM |
|
|
Excellent feedback chaps 
Can you recomend a suitable microswitch?
I did keep the one off the donor brake pedal, but then ditched it in a clear out.
|
|
|
tks
|
| posted on 15/3/07 at 09:23 PM |
|
|
its easy
in the front circuit the pressure is higher sow it will trigger faster..
allot faster as in the rear!!
thats all....
its dangerous!!
microswitch is a good after solution
Tks
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
|
|
|
chriscook
|
| posted on 15/3/07 at 10:25 PM |
|
|
I used the lever style from maplin
|
|
|
procomp
|
| posted on 16/3/07 at 08:43 AM |
|
|
Hi most problems with hydrualic switches are where there is air still inside the switch.
Try mounting the switch upside down and giving it a few genttle taps to move the air out of the switch and into the main line and re bleed the rear
system.
Never had any problems with them except when they do eventualy pack up for good.
cheers matt
|
|
|
Hellfire
|
| posted on 16/3/07 at 09:27 AM |
|
|
Ours is in the rear line and works great!
As procomp said - most of the trouble is due to air. Mount it sideways or upside down to rid the switch of air.
Alternatively - leave the switch thread slightly loose then fire some fluid through whilst another helper nips up the thread, that should force any
air out.
HTH - Steve
|
|
|
