d8mok
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| posted on 7/4/07 at 01:22 PM |
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pinion diff seal fitting
my pinion seal on my english back axle is leaking.
I bought a new seal and crush washer but then got told to not use the crush washer and simply count the turns instead.
I marked the nut and counted 11 and a 3rd turns. Took the pinion, seal, bearings and crush washer out. Then replaced them all using a new seal only.
so i re used the original crush washer. I then counted the turns but now the pinion feels loose. It can be moved from side to side and up and down
about a inch or so. Surely this isnt normal???
I've actually got another new seal to do it again but am i doing something wrong? or shall i just take the diff out and do it properly?
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mark chandler
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| posted on 7/4/07 at 06:20 PM |
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Definately not right.... you can try tightening until there is no play but better to do it properly.
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procomp
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| posted on 7/4/07 at 06:44 PM |
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Hi anybody who says dont use a new crush washer/tube is a complete idiot. The reason it's leaking is because is has already over crushed so
putting it back to the same place will give the same excess play causing the oil leak.
Also if you have the diff apart why not get the job done properly and have it solid spacered for extra reliability . There are quite a few companys
that do this know.
cheers matt
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britishtrident
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| posted on 7/4/07 at 07:05 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by procomp
Hi anybody who says dont use a new crush washer/tube is a complete idiot. The reason it's leaking is because is has already over crushed so
putting it back to the same place will give the same excess play causing the oil leak.
Also if you have the diff apart why not get the job done properly and have it solid spacered for extra reliability . There are quite a few companys
that do this know.
cheers matt
Funny that I have done it about 30 or 40 times without any problem -- doing it by counting the turns was standard practice in dealerships up and down
the country in the haydays of the Escort and Cortina.
If the nut goes back to exactly the same position nothing has changed except for the new seal.
Clearly in this case something has gone badly wrong --- so wrong it can't be explained by just giving the nut an extra turn or even two. I
would hazzard a a guess that some part is missing either a washer under the big nut or the crush washer itself came out with the seal and wasn't
put back in.
If the missing part isn't aparent it is in with a new crush washer, pull the shafts and set the pre-load measuring the torque on the flange
with the aid of spring balance.
[Edited on 7/4/07 by britishtrident]
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omega 24 v6
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| posted on 7/4/07 at 08:00 PM |
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If there's that much play something is far wrong and it's not just cause you've not used a new crush spacer. At the risk of stating
the obvious you did remeber to refitt the bearing didn't you??Sorry if you did but stranger things and all that.
If it looks wrong it probably is wrong.
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d8mok
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| posted on 8/4/07 at 07:43 AM |
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thanks for replys guys.
Yeh everything that came out went back in. I think i'm gonna take diff out and do it properly this morning. My friend is quite good with
escorts mk2 so he says he'll sort the preload.
Its more annoying than anything cos its the only thing stopping me getting it back on road after 7 months in garage having loads of new bits.
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omega 24 v6
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| posted on 8/4/07 at 09:20 AM |
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Let us all know for future reference what the problem is/was.
If it looks wrong it probably is wrong.
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procomp
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| posted on 10/4/07 at 07:48 AM |
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Hi the main reason the front oil seals leak . Is that during it's life the crush spacers continue to crush even if only by a smallest
amount. Leaving the pinion whith a small amout of play which allows the oil to escape past the seal.
The reason the dealers and many others just counted the number of turns removed the front flange . changed front seal and reasembeld . Was because it
was just a job that needed doing so the car could be got out of workshop. And also meant that the diff did not need removing from axle saving a load
of time.
These cars would soon have the oil leak back once the new seal had started to harden up and lost its initial supelness as the small amount of pinion
play was still there.
In the case of d8mok above he has the diff already removed from the axle casing .
So why the hell not do the job properly and fit a new crush tube and seal as it will also save him having problems with the crownwheel and pinion
later on if they are all fitted back in with the correct preload and engagement.
If a jobs worth doing it's worth doing correctly. Somthing that many people building kitcars seem to forget.
cheers matt
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d8mok
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| posted on 10/4/07 at 11:01 AM |
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tried to take the diff out of axle last niight and it wouldnt come out as theres not enought room to pull it out of the casing.
Gonna take the rear axle off when i get chance.
I'm thinking about getting the axle, trailing arms and everything else at the rear powder coated. Is this a good idea cos i'm worried that
stuff might get into the axle casing if not masked up correctly.
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procomp
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| posted on 10/4/07 at 02:01 PM |
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Hi powder coating axle casings has been the cause of many problems over the years. As you are thinking due to shotblast getting in and never being
able to get it all back out again.
Much better off just cleaning as good as you can and scraping old paint ect off and giving it a fresh new coat of paint.
cheers matt
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NS Dev
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| posted on 10/4/07 at 02:15 PM |
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as long as you are patient then solid spacering the pinion is one if the easier jobs of building a diff up to be honest.
Setting the mesh correctly is much harder, once you have the shim thickness for under the pinion head then build it up with a solid spacer that is too
thick, make a turning torque tool ( I just use some bar with a flange welded on, you know the c of g of the bar and its weight, the flange c of g is
irrelevant is its on the pinion centreline, then you can let it go on the horizontal and it doesn't drop too fast then the turning torque is
right ) and check its still unpreleoaded.
Then thin the spacer bit by bit (by feel really, a tenth or two of a mm at first until there's no play, then a thou (0.02mm) or so at a time
until you get the torque.
You'll need a lathe/surface grinder though........................
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 10/4/07 at 09:26 PM |
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Where can I find the details of the diff overhaull procedure? The pinion seal is leaking quite badly on the Striker, and I'd like to sort it.
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NS Dev
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| posted on 11/4/07 at 12:03 PM |
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sorry, I don't really have it written down in one place. The most useful bit is the old ford "boreham book" for mk 1 and 2 escort
rally prep, but mine has disintegrated and disappeared!
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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