matt.c
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 posted on 16/9/07 at 07:06 PM |
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Solid coolant pipes
Can you join copper/alloy pipes to flexy hoses with hose clips? Will they leak if i dont have rolled edges on the solid pipes.
Many thanks locosters.
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NeilP
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| posted on 16/9/07 at 07:07 PM |
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Might not but I'd use two clips in reversed directions and torque them to FT to be sure...
If you pay peanuts...
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Drive it like you stole it!
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matt_gsxr
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| posted on 16/9/07 at 07:18 PM |
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solder on an olive seems to be a popular solution to this.
Easier with Cu than Al
Matt
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matt.c
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| posted on 16/9/07 at 07:30 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by matt_gsxr
solder on an olive seems to be a popular solution to this.
Easier with Cu than Al
Matt
Have you got any pics or links on how to do this? What size olives can you get?
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Simon
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| posted on 16/9/07 at 07:38 PM |
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Best bet a trip to Plumb Centre.
If none big enough, cut off 1/4" of pipe, cut lengthways, open slightly and solder that to water pipe.
Works for me
ATB
Simon
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lsdweb
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| posted on 16/9/07 at 07:50 PM |
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PTFE tape rolled around the end of the pipe has always worked for me.
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omega 24 v6
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| posted on 16/9/07 at 09:19 PM |
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I used a piece of electrical copper wire from 2.5 t+e and soldered round it. Then dressed ant sharp edges off. It's not roaded yet though so I
hope it'll be ok. It certainly looks OK
If it looks wrong it probably is wrong.
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Chippy
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| posted on 16/9/07 at 09:58 PM |
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If your using copper pipe, then you can get olives to fit all copper sizes, trouble is not all plumbing suppliers stock them in the bigger tube sizes.
You will have to shop around. HTH Ray
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James
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| posted on 16/9/07 at 10:16 PM |
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Someone suggested something I'd not thought of just a couple of days ago: put a couple of rivets around the edge... then the clipped hose
can't come off.
On my stainless pipes I welded a small 'blob' of weld on.
Alternatively, using a copper pipe with a York fitting on the end will give give you a nice 'lip'.
Hope that helps,
James
[Edited on 16/9/07 by James]
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- Muhammad Ali
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Avoneer
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| posted on 16/9/07 at 10:19 PM |
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If you ca't get an olive, get a solder butt connector and cut it in half and solder it to the end of pipe.
That's what I did and no sign of seepage anywhere.
Pat...
No trees were killed in the sending of this message.
However a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
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DIY Si
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| posted on 17/9/07 at 12:05 AM |
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Mine are just normal pipe, no fancy edges at all, just nice and smooth. Never fallen off as yet, and I've had the header tank blowing what it
thought was excess out.
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
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bimbleuk
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| posted on 17/9/07 at 07:17 AM |
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Same here I've used ally pipes which I cut myself and didn't bother with a bead in most of the joins.
Currently the system runs at about 3-5 PSI max as there's no water in it! I did previously use a water/glycol mix.
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matt.c
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| posted on 18/9/07 at 05:54 PM |
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ok thanks for the replies guys. Will be off to the plumbing centre at the weekend to see what i can get.
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NS Dev
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| posted on 19/9/07 at 12:26 PM |
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Just plain pipe ends here, on polished stainless pipe.
Not just the locost either, done the same on the cooling circuit on the grasser, and a mate over the road is running 25 psi boost in his rwd kadett
turbo on pipes done by my own fair hand and none of them has a retaining ring and none have blow off in a lot of road miles and numerous trips to
santa pod etc
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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