pajsh
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| posted on 21/9/07 at 12:05 PM |
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Rose Joints
Looking for some rose joints to re-engineer my rear suspension.
Had some from Nick Skidmore in the past but emailed him and he's not replied.
Any one know of another trusted supplier.
Don't mind fleabay if recommended but not sure about quality of some on there.
I used to be apathetic but now I just don't care.
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goodguydrew
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| posted on 21/9/07 at 12:21 PM |
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I asked a similar question and got these replies.
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=74048
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John Bonnett
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| posted on 21/9/07 at 12:32 PM |
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I'd go to Rally Design. They offer and excellent range of Rose joints in all qualities.
John
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pajsh
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| posted on 21/9/07 at 12:42 PM |
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McGill Motorsports looks OK.
Thanks.
I used to be apathetic but now I just don't care.
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TGR-ECOSSE
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| posted on 21/9/07 at 12:56 PM |
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I would definately recomend McGill Motorsport As do some others
Here
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RazMan
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| posted on 21/9/07 at 02:30 PM |
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At the risk of getting flamed I will say that suspension and rose joints are not ideal - much better to use poly bushes if possible. If you really
must use them, then budget for around £25 each or they will fail very quickly - trust me on this 
[Edited on 21-9-07 by RazMan]
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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NS Dev
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| posted on 21/9/07 at 02:49 PM |
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Raz is right for road miles
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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jkarran
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| posted on 21/9/07 at 03:09 PM |
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I've used McGill Motorsport off Ebay and got what I expected. I'd use them again.
jk
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Phil.J
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| posted on 21/9/07 at 03:29 PM |
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Just for info., Nick Skidmore is on holiday in Scotland this week, hence no reply.
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blakep82
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| posted on 21/9/07 at 05:23 PM |
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McGills!
________________________
IVA manual link http://www.businesslink.gov.uk/bdotg/action/detail?type=RESOURCES&itemId=1081997083
don't write OT on a new thread title, you're creating the topic, everything you write is very much ON topic!
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hobbsy
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| posted on 21/9/07 at 07:53 PM |
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Yeah you don't want one failing. I know someone who races a Formula Jedi, a rose joint falled at Brands and he hit the armaco at near 150mph
and did about £8k damage to it. Not worth skimping on...
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pajsh
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| posted on 23/9/07 at 09:47 AM |
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I hate it when people I respect the advice of (Raz/Nat) tell me something I don't want to hear.
Car has a book rear set up (not built by me) but has three problems I am trying to sort.
1) Diff is not level (maybe angled 5-10) degrees down) which I think can't be good for it.
2) There is far to much movement due to inaccurate connections (holes too big for the bolts which results in excessive movement at the diff flange
end under acceleration and it slops (perhaps an exaggeration) back and forth under braking & acceleration).
3) There is insufficient clearance between the TA and the D/S rear wheel which on (fairly heavy) LH cornering means the wheel rubs the TA. The
clearance is around 5-10mm but it seems the distortion in the tyres (185/65/R13) is too much for it.
I guess the most complete answer would be to remake the TAs and cut off and reweld the brackets on the rear axle but I was hoping rose jointing the
existing TA may enable me to re-align the diff horizontally, move it slightly sideways to increase the clearance on the DS and using 12mm bolts
instead of the 3/8 UNF (I think) open up the holes and take out the slack.
The tophats are hard nylon so should probably be replace anyway.
I can see that RJ have no real give in them and sooner or later the stress will cause them to fail so perhaps remaking the TA is the right answer.
Views (honest) requested.
Cheers Guys.
[Edited on 23/9/07 by pajsh]
I used to be apathetic but now I just don't care.
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Peteff
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| posted on 23/9/07 at 11:00 AM |
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If it's moving sideways you should be looking at the Panhard rod. You need to keep the top and bottom trailing arms the same length and parallel
or the axle will move in weird and wonderful ways tilting the diff nose as it arcs but the amount of movement available will probably not make a lot
of difference. Oval the holes to level your diff up then put the bolts in with a big washer both sides, tack the washers in and take it to bits to
fully weld it.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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x_flow57
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| posted on 23/9/07 at 11:12 AM |
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I beleive you want a live axle nose to be angled down a bit (5-10deg. sounds a bit much though) as it helps traction.
Could you fit spacers to stop the rubbing on the trailing arms?
Nick
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britishtrident
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| posted on 23/9/07 at 08:15 PM |
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Stop looking for problems that aren't there
(1) Nose down diff not really problem unless it is leaking.
(2) The trailling link bolts have either not been tightened up properly or are the threads are coil bound before they grip the crush tubes. The
holes don't have to be perefect to less than a mm the bush crush tubes are gripped by clamping friction.
(3) Common problem you need thin wheel spacers to give clearance between the tyre and the inner. arch.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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pajsh
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| posted on 23/9/07 at 08:35 PM |
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I will try some spacers and maybe go for the welded washers to sort the play out combined with a bit of extra torque on the bolts.
I think I would like to change the tophats from the hard nylon but can probably do that at the same time.
Thanks BT, Raz, Nat et al.
I used to be apathetic but now I just don't care.
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