saigonij
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| posted on 25/11/07 at 10:18 PM |
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caliper rebuild guide
does anyone have a caliper rebuild guide?
i want to try and rebuild my scorpio cosworth calipers, but not sure of the procedure...
does any one have a rebuild guide?
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mookaloid
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| posted on 25/11/07 at 10:26 PM |
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Yep take em to your local motor factors and Px them for reconditioned ones.
should be very cheap and not worth rebuilding your own even if you know how to do it.
Cheers
Mark
"That thing you're thinking - it wont be that."
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RazMan
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| posted on 25/11/07 at 10:52 PM |
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Yep, by the time you add up the costs of refurbing them yourself (including the paint), it's probably better to exhange them for recon units.
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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stevec
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| posted on 26/11/07 at 11:11 AM |
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Be a bit careful about really cheap ones, some are done in sweatshops by monkeys. The first ones I bought I had a problem when I came to blead them,
the fluid would not come out of the nipple.
When I Popped the piston out to investigate the whole thing was full of shot blast balls 
Steve.
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02GF74
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| posted on 26/11/07 at 01:31 PM |
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Mr Haynes wrote quite a few book that would have to some extend covered caliper overhaul.
Generatlly there are 3 parts:
1. outer seal overhaul
2. piston & seal overhaul
3. o-ring overhaul
1. is fairly straightford; remove, clean and refitting is reverse of removal - the clip to hold the seal in place my present some fun depending on
design
2. removal of pistons should be possible in one of several ways:
press brake - one piston will pop out, use two screwdrivers to lever out - not ideal as you can damage the piston. use of compressed air - if you
do the calcuation of entry area vs piston area, you don't need much pressure for the piston to pop out - believe me it shoots out like a bullet
with 35 psi. (you'd do one piston at a time then clamp the refurbed side to ensure other side pops out).
then you examine piston outer surface where it rubs on seal - it should be spotless, if not, very fine emery 600 may get rid of any marks but if
pitting goes past chromed surface, then replace.
piston seal removed using jeweller's screwdriver - any signs of wear or cracking then replace. clean the groove in which they sit. smear
brake fluid onto the seal and insert. smear fluid over the piston and insert - it should be possible to push it in by hand ensuring you keep the
piston square.
from what I can tell, the groove is not square meaning the seal fits at an angle - this is part of the design.
I also find when I did this, that the fluid used on the seal and piston dripped onto the inner wheel rim making me think there was a leak - after
wiping it up, the rim has remained totally dry so give the system a about a week or two to settle. Also the fluid mmay have been some that was on
the surface of t he callier despite wiping it when bleeding and that left in the nipple.
Obviously if it continues, you have a problem.
A good test is to press the brakes and get a friend to look for fluid or wipe clean and llo for damp patches.
3. the last part is taking apart the calipers to replace the o-ring inside. this is not recommended by the manuals although I have never figured
out why - provifing everything is clean and new o-ring is fitted, and bolts done up tight to spec then it should be ok. I cannot rememebr ever
having to do this,
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bonzoronnie
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| posted on 27/11/07 at 06:26 PM |
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Caliper rebuilding
quote:
Originally posted by stevec
Be a bit careful about really cheap ones, some are done in sweatshops by monkeys. The first ones I bought I had a problem when I came to blead them,
the fluid would not come out of the nipple.
When I Popped the piston out to investigate the whole thing was full of shot blast balls
Steve.
This is the very reason I prefer to do it myself.
If the calipers only require new seals. Way cheaper than re-con units. If new pistons are needed,then that's a whole different ball game.
A word of warning though.
This is not a job to attemt unless you have the skills & tools to do so.
Ronnie 
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