Trems
|
| posted on 17/3/08 at 09:42 AM |
|
|
What brakes are people using?
Hi guys, i'm looking into which brakes i should use with the car, i'm planning on using my 15" compomotive wheelsz so have a
reasonable amount of space, i've been looking into things like xr4i/grandada cosworth etc probably with a 280mm disk.
I've also noticed a few people are using wilwood and other aftermarket brake options, any opinions/suggestions?
Any help greatly appreciated.
-Paul
www.tR3M5.com
|
|
|
|
|
worX
|
| posted on 17/3/08 at 09:47 AM |
|
|
I have wilwoods and I chose them because of the weight saving alone, not because of the additional braking efficiency.
If you go for the sierra stuff you do NOT need the vented discs as these won't really ever get hot enough in your car which weighs a
considerable amount less...
It mostly depends on your budget. Standard Sierra stuff is fine in all honesty!
Steve
|
|
|
alistairolsen
|
| posted on 17/3/08 at 11:10 AM |
|
|
Ive just got wilwoods and 260mm vents, but thats for weight saving and because I plan to run 13 inch wheels.
Under 15s Id be going for sierra cossie disks and mondeo ate calipers or something similar I recon
|
|
|
saigonij
|
| posted on 17/3/08 at 11:25 AM |
|
|
300mm ST170 focus discs and Sierra Calipers at the front,
253mm sierra discs and calipers at the back.
awesome brakes. hardly any effort needed to stop in a controlled manor.
|
|
|
britishtrident
|
| posted on 17/3/08 at 11:46 AM |
|
|
If you read a lot of the posts in the forum you will see a lot of the problems builders are having with brakes is getting the pads up to working
temperature.
To but it another way the brakes are over cooled because they are too big for a sevenish car.
Locosts and other Sevenish car tend to suffer from two major braking problems.
(1) Lack of pedal leverage/ hydraulic ratio
(2) Brake pads not reaching best working temperature because they are under loaded.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
|
|
|
muzchap
|
| posted on 17/3/08 at 01:18 PM |
|
|
I changed my twin bias set-up for a Lotus Elise master cylinder, pedal box and front twin pot AP Racing brakes. Due to the increased HP and
performance from the Honda engine.
I'm also fitting a proportioning valve so I can adjust bias when on track.
Agreed RE: Operating temps - especially if using performance pads...
The difference in stopping distances is amazing - also be aware of pad 'glazing'..
I've got some 1000 mile old new Sierra Calipers for sale  along with 1000 mile discs....
M
------------------------------------
If you believe you're not crazy, whilst everybody is telling you, you are - then they are definitely wrong!
------------------------------------
|
|
|
RazMan
|
| posted on 17/3/08 at 05:18 PM |
|
|
I used Wilwood Dynalites on the front with Powerlites (with handbrake) on the rear. I shouldn't have gone for vented discs on the front though
as they never get warm enough unless on the track - solid discs are a must.
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
|
|
|
Trems
|
| posted on 17/3/08 at 07:09 PM |
|
|
Thanks for the replies so far chaps, just a thought...why dont people who are struggling with temp just use a lower temperature grade pad? a
road-intended pad should give maximum performance from almost cold???
Also, does anyone have any pics of their wilwoods installed?
Thanks again
-Paul
www.tR3M5.com
|
|
|
britishtrident
|
| posted on 18/3/08 at 12:40 PM |
|
|
Even for a Sierra or Cortina caliper road pads are intended stop a vehicle that at 3 times the laden weight of a Sevenish car and because of the
servo operate at 50% to 100% more pressure in the hydraulic system. On a Sevenish car standard Cortina or Sierra brakes are also out in the air
stream so they run a lot cooler than on the donor.
You have to avoid approaching the brakes on a Locost type car with a mind set that comes from hot hatches, on a hot hatch it is difficult to get big
enough brakes on the front and keep them cool.
If you fit bigger calipers with a bigger pad area the problem becomes worse, the pads just glaze because they are not being squeezed hard enough into
the disc in normal braking.
The keys to good braking on a Locost without a servo are a good pedal ratio and a small bore master cylinder.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
|
|
|
Trems
|
| posted on 18/3/08 at 09:26 PM |
|
|
Do you guys not use servos then?
I was planning on fitting one myself.
www.tR3M5.com
|
|
|
RazMan
|
| posted on 19/3/08 at 05:35 AM |
|
|
A servo is definitely not required on such a light car (although some do still fit them) As BT said, the original braking system was designed for a
car three times the weight and would make the car overbraked with too little feel.
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
|
|
|
