DarrenW
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| posted on 24/4/08 at 04:18 PM |
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Steering Wheel alignment
At the mo when driving in straight line the wheel is about 10deg off straight. Steering has been aligned with gauges etc.
I have a new wheel to fit. Obviously would rather it was straight rather than at the same 10deg.
Can i simply wind the steering arms by the same amount each to maintain toe in and straighten the steering wheel up? I have it in my head i can but as
i dont have steering gauges dont want to cock up the toe in setting.
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Ivan
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| posted on 24/4/08 at 04:23 PM |
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Can't you just take the steering wheel off the column and put it back on straight. Normally the column has sufficient splines to allow miniscule
adjustment.
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ditchlewis
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| posted on 24/4/08 at 04:26 PM |
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^^^^^^ what he said
ditch
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bigrich
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| posted on 24/4/08 at 04:27 PM |
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The theory is correct but you will in effect move the centre point of the rack giving uneven turns of the wheel from centre to full lock also it
affects toe out on turns (toot)
Better to unbolt the lower link from the rack and turn and refit when in alignment,
splines at bottom rather than hexagon at steering wheel end
[Edited on 24/4/08 by bigrich]
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DarrenW
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| posted on 24/4/08 at 04:28 PM |
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Hexagon.
Anything other than multiples of 60deg out and youre stuffed.
Sorry - should have said that before.
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blakep82
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| posted on 24/4/08 at 04:30 PM |
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^ if its a hexagonal boss, take the collumn off at the rack and adjust there. if you wind the track rods, guess you'd end up with more steering
one way than the other, and if you can steer more one way, you mightend up with wheels fouling bodywork, or suspension... but yeah, what they said^^^
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fesycresy
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| posted on 24/4/08 at 04:39 PM |
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File out the holes in the steering wheel. Dab of araldite when you put it back together and dog it up.
Failing that, I think Rich's idea comes a close second 
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DarrenW
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| posted on 24/4/08 at 04:56 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by bigrich
The theory is correct but you will in effect move the centre point of the rack giving uneven turns of the wheel from centre to full lock also it
affects toe out on turns (toot)
Better to unbolt the lower link from the rack and turn and refit when in alignment,
splines at bottom rather than hexagon at steering wheel end
[Edited on 24/4/08 by bigrich]
Nice one Rich. Thanks.
Just had a look - nice and easy. Looks like i loosen the top joint (triangular one), loosen bottom end and intermediate shaft will slide up and off
the rack, quick turn and back on.
Reading what you all say - ive never checked to see if the turns are equal left and right. Cannot be far out i dont think.
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indykid
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| posted on 24/4/08 at 05:26 PM |
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no one seems to have mentioned that adjusting toe so it's correct when the rack's not central equates to the track rod ball joints being
in different places, hence creating bump steer.
it's a significantly greater issue than having uneven amounts of lock one side to the other.
tom
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Jon Ison
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| posted on 24/4/08 at 05:34 PM |
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Lower splines as suggested or as you original said, 10* at the wheel wont equate to much on the track rods, so you end up with a tad more lock one way
than other, if yours is like mine then you probably only use 2/3rds of the available lock anyway, and that's usually when pushing it back into
garage.
If its going to give you bump steer then we all have bump steer every time you put any lock on ?
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02GF74
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| posted on 28/4/08 at 03:12 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by DarrenW
Hexagon.
Anything other than multiples of 60deg out and youre stuffed.
you can adjust by 60 degree increments but cannot be out more than 30 degress max.
but the UJ and fitting to the rack itself is splined.
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