swanny
|
| posted on 12/7/14 at 07:55 PM |
|
|
A v8 what's it worth thread....
Got chatting to the grandma ofone of the kids at my sons school fair today.
Turns out her now deceased husband had a kit car, a Factory built westy. He also planned to upgrade to a v8 engine before he died.
The family have sold the car, but haven't got rid if the engine and box.
From the chat today the engine was completely rebuilt by the chap, and all the work he couldn't do was done at Ivor Searles
I don't imagine any scrimping on parts etc would have been done by the chap.
They asked me if I could help sell it but have no idea what it's worth? I have requested photos etc.
Apprently I'm not allowed to buy it just to put it in the garage and look at it making vroom noises....
Is this a TRADE ADVERTISEMENT?? Click HERE to report it!
|
|
|
|
|
mark chandler
|
| posted on 12/7/14 at 08:32 PM |
|
|
I sold a good 4.6 with hot cam, ported inlet and exhaust and pocketed pistons for around £400 on eBay a few years ago, I do not believe the venerable
rover v8 is worth much these days, even with reciepts maybe £500 ?
|
|
|
swanny
|
| posted on 12/7/14 at 08:42 PM |
|
|
What are the boxes worth. I'm assuming its a five speed
[Edited on 12/7/14 by swanny]
|
|
|
mark chandler
|
| posted on 12/7/14 at 10:15 PM |
|
|
Depends on what it is, lt77, lt77s, r380 and what bell housing as some are very long.
Maybe £150 anyway, how long is a piece of string as these are getting thinner on the ground these days.
|
|
|
Irony
|
| posted on 13/7/14 at 08:56 AM |
|
|
Depends on the V8 and it's condition. Lt77 boxes aren't worth a great deal unless you can prove the internals are good. R380s a bit more
but the same rule applies. If it has a SD1 bell housing you might be talking £150 - £250 for just the bell. If it has a 4wd bell housing then its
worth nothing.
|
|
|
wilkingj
|
| posted on 15/7/14 at 11:35 AM |
|
|
Also depends on what the engine is.
The 3.5 comes in two flavours, early and the later stronger block. These are usually cheap.
If its done 60K miles plus the CAM is worn out, as this is a std problem on RV8's
The crank will probably be fine!
Then the 3.9 these can have cylinder liner leaksage problems due to the bigger bore.
Then come the cross bolted blocks, which I think are more desirable. These are 4.0 to 4.6 litre.
Again subject to the block problems and liner slippage (except the very last models they built by coscast).
However if its been done at Ivor Searles, then it should be OK, as I am sure they wouldnt do a block that was no good.
I had some work on my 3.5 engine done at I-Searles, and the work was good, and so was their advice.
Now... Its down to.. Do you want the less powerful 3.5 (preferably a thick / strong block)
There is a cut off date for the 3.5 weak / strong block) P6 engines were weak block and the SD1's are mostly strong block.
The 3.5 is fairly bombproof, and has a max of about 200Bhp with mild tuning, namely not anything too costly.
If you want out and out performance, then you want a late 4.6. this will cost you money, and to tune it past 250+bhp will cost a LOT of money.
I had my 3.5, with mildy modified cylinderheads, 9.5:1 compression, a 4 Barrel Webber 500 Carb, and a Viper Hurricane cam.
Im my Viento, whihc is slightly heavier than the std Se7en, it was awesome.
Only ever got well and truly blown off the road, but a Mitsubishi Evo8, even them I held him off untill about 90mph, then he just left me.
Also most all other cars were a breeze in a fight. Of course ALL this was on the track, as its not legal on the public highway.
A V8 in a kit car is awesome.
You need to think about the diff and gearing, as I had a std SD1 gearbox, and a Sierra 3.38 LSD.
Even then 1st gear was very short lived. On paper in top gear at 6k rmp it would do 150 mph.
In reality it did 135 max. 0-100 was as fast as you could change gears, and ablve that the aerodynamics cut in sharply.
Even then I used to get 26mpg on a steady run to rallies kepeing to the legal speed limits.
Foot down HARD or around town showing off, and I recon it would drop to single figures.
Remember, if you own a V8, you probably do it cos you love that V8 burble in the exhausts. I did.
You V8 will pass almost everything on the road.... EXCEPT a petrol station.
Be prepared to be financially raped every time you drive it.
However, the GRIN Factor, is MASSIVE, and you learn to accept the fuel costs for the Grin Factor.
Also remember, its 2x everything on a V8!
I went for the 3.5Litre one as it was a reliablity thing, and also cheaper. Although my engine still cost me nearly £2k to refurbish.
You can buy a NEW crated 2.0 litre Ford engine for less than half that!
You really got to WANT a V8, and accept the costs and limitations, all for thet Grin Factor!
Hope that helps your decision.
Geoff
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
|
|
|
swanny
|
| posted on 15/7/14 at 11:44 AM |
|
|
just to clarify this isn't for me to buy, the lady that owns it was asking me to try and sell it for her.
i had a rv8 in my old vindicator, spent a grand on an engine rebuild, then edelbrock carb and a jwr manifold.
amazing fun. and sounded great. i then sold it for a brief flirtation with a GTM, and now have another v8, this time a 4.6 mustang in my mg st260
v8s are addictive. and i missed the noise every time i got in the gtm, as good as it was.
unless the pics (when i eventually get them) of said engine look staggeringly good the consensus seems to be that £300-350 or so would be a good price
to sell at of she wants rid. whatever it sells for the new owner is going to have to open up engine and box to check what state its in and deal with
whatever is in there.
Paul
|
|
|
JBell67
|
| posted on 15/7/14 at 05:48 PM |
|
|
Would be interested in further info on this as you get it - might suit one of my projects
JB
|
|
|
