It seems that for the busa I need a 3.14 diff ideally so if you have one please let me know! (can't afford the Ebay prices usually).
Or if it interests you, I have a new later Freelander diff with the improved bearings and a quaife ATB, also new to fit to it, perhaps we could do a deal?

good luck i searched for a cheap one for a while got very lucky and found one in a local scrappy had to strip from the sierra though... i know mnr have a few in stock about 450 though maybe they would do a deal on the freelander worth asking..
rob

Rob, I've seen the sticky post with the details of all the codes, numbers and Sierras, but how do identify a 3.14 diff? I mean, where do you look for the numbers?
Cheers
ps did you find it necessary for the busa? Mine is a turbo one but I guess they will have similar revs??

there should be a tag, held on by one of the bolts for the back cover.
but only real way of knowing is to take the back cover off, the ratio it's stamped on the crownwheel.

ps i have a 3.14 i took it out as it was to long for my R1

[Edited on 4/5/09 by Johneturbo]

You don't need to take the cover off. Just start rotating the propshaft end, and check how many rotations you need to do in order to arrive to one full rotation on the halfshaft side. Mark both with a marker and you should be able to see. A 3.14 diff will require 3 full rotations plus 50 degrees (less than a quarter turn). A 3.38 will require 3 turns plus 136 degrees (around a third of a turn), and a 3.62 3 turns plus 223 degrees (more than half a turn).
Check also that the diff is not welded i.e. the two halfshaft sides can rotate independantly.
Tip: If you go abroad sometime check the scrappies, the 3.14 Sierra diffs cost this much in the UK only...
Gergely