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Author: Subject: Pop riveter
iscmatt
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Building: - BUILT - 2.0 pinto indy, Kent Cam, zzr1100 carbs

posted on 27/4/06 at 09:18 AM Reply With Quote
Pop riveter

Ineed one - i haven't done any research on them yet but -

who is the best supplyer?

What type?

What price?

for the easiest to use but not a ridiculous price - maybe links to websites would be helpful

regards matt

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mike smith1

posted on 27/4/06 at 09:21 AM Reply With Quote
I would recommend one that you are comfortable using as you will be using it alot, and if its for the floor panel fitting,
definatly a air riveter or a lazy tongue style! Im sure others will agree!

Mike

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RazMan

posted on 27/4/06 at 09:22 AM Reply With Quote
I bought a Rolson from eBay - £5 and it is still going strong after doing all of my panels in 4mm & 5mm. I've now also got biceps the size of Arnie Swartzenwhatsit





Cheers,
Raz

When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box

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britishtrident

posted on 27/4/06 at 09:27 AM Reply With Quote
Rolson one is OK --- Maplin and Focus also sell it. Machine Mart sell a riveter with a cast body that is very very good --- I have had a similar one made in the 1960s that is still going strong.

Personally I have a couple of riveters because it saves changing "nozzels" for different size rivets.

Lazy Tongs and air riveters are very very good but a bit over the to for building one car.

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Peteff

posted on 27/4/06 at 09:29 AM Reply With Quote
It's best to have a collection of pop riveters for different situations. Lazy tong and scissor type are easy to pop but need a lot of room so you can't use them in tight spaces, hand riveters available with swivel heads are hard work on thicker rivets but easier to use in tight spaces. Screwfix and Machine Mart sell various types, Google them and happy popping.





yours, Pete

I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.

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whitestu

posted on 27/4/06 at 09:33 AM Reply With Quote
Did all mine with a £6 job from machine mart no problem.

The angle type are good for getting into tight areas where bigger ones can't fit.

Stu

[Edited on 27/4/06 by whitestu]

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jos

posted on 27/4/06 at 09:53 AM Reply With Quote
I used number 1 & number 6 on this page

Number 1 did all the floor (ALOT of rivets) Number 6 did most of the others and all of the ones in confined spaces (footwell etc)

http://www.draper.co.uk/Pages/Pagesource/p155.pdf





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DaveFJ

posted on 27/4/06 at 10:59 AM Reply With Quote
I used a hand riveter for a lot of rivets but I bought a very nice lazy tong type gizmo which is excellent at setting stainless steel rivnuts and also does rivets - well worth the money....




£64 from www.justoffbase.co.uk and worth every penny....



[Edited on 27/4/06 by DaveFJ]





Dave

"In Support of Help the Heroes" - Always

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andyace

posted on 27/4/06 at 11:25 AM Reply With Quote
I personally think that if you need a pop riveter just for building one Locost then just get a cheap one.

For the amount of rivets you will do its not worth spending much more than a tenner. Even the floor pan is not that bad.

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DaveFJ

posted on 27/4/06 at 11:34 AM Reply With Quote
depends on how you do it - I have gone a little further than some and have about 1500 rivets in my car at present - all structural type so harder to work......





Dave

"In Support of Help the Heroes" - Always

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stevebubs

posted on 27/4/06 at 11:34 AM Reply With Quote
Air rivetter everytime - makes life so lazy

Oh...and cleckos....

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DaveFJ

posted on 27/4/06 at 11:35 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by stevebubs
Air rivetter everytime - makes life so lazy

Oh...and cleckos....


second that - clecos are a godsend!





Dave

"In Support of Help the Heroes" - Always

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andyharding

posted on 27/4/06 at 11:50 AM Reply With Quote
I have one of these:

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?cId=102094&ts=38518&id=10068

Quite good for the P-Clips in difficault locations.

It's hard work though. By the time I had finished the car I could break walnuts with my bare hands. Won quite a few bets in the pub with that one

[Edited on 2/5/06 by andyharding]





Are you a Mac user or a retard?

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andyace

posted on 27/4/06 at 12:02 PM Reply With Quote
Instead of cleckos I saved money by just pushing in a few rivets here and there to hold the panel in position.

Worked 4 me.

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ccw-tools

posted on 2/5/06 at 11:39 AM Reply With Quote
Hi Guys, I've picked up some traffic from this forum on my webstats recently regarding the use of riveters etc. Please see the following URL: http://www.ccw-tools.co.uk/catalogue/products.asp?cat_id=91 which will give you the complete range of body shop & sheet tools we carry. We also carry the complete range of Sealey Tools and will be introducing the complete range of Draper tools within the month.

If you have any further question please let me know and I will endevour to answer them.

Thanks

Tom
www.ccw-tools.co.uk
tom@ccw-tools.co.uk

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02GF74

posted on 2/5/06 at 12:29 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by andyharding
I have one of these:

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?cId=102094&ts=38518&id=10068

Quite good for the P-Clips in difficault locations.




I got one of these too; from axminster tools: http://www.axminster.co.uk/name/riveter/sfile/1/jump/0/product-Arrow-Twist-Head-Riveter-21325.htm

very handy, the twisting head allows you to get into awkward spaces; seems to be robust i.e. not broken it yet!

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iank

posted on 2/5/06 at 12:38 PM Reply With Quote
Saw lazy-tongue riveters at Stoneleigh for £10, well worth it for the easy access ones.
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DaveFJ

posted on 2/5/06 at 12:39 PM Reply With Quote
I saw the type I posted about above going for £50 - bargain!!





Dave

"In Support of Help the Heroes" - Always

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NS Dev

posted on 4/5/06 at 03:02 PM Reply With Quote
Air riveter every time. Knackered my right hand for some time putting 400 odd 5mm rivets in.

£50 well spent, makes the job ten times faster too.





Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion retro car restoration and tuning

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