coozer
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| posted on 3/4/14 at 04:37 PM |
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Which TIG?
So, going to scratch building a chassis and really fancy a go with a tig for the fiddly bits..
Which one?
Thanks,
Steve
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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Myke 2463
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| posted on 3/4/14 at 04:48 PM |
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R-Tech.
http://www.r-techwelding.co.uk/welding_equipment/Tig_Welder/Tig_Welders_R-Tech_Tig160PDC
After sale service is second to none, as much free advice as you need.
Be Lucky Mike.
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minitici
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| posted on 3/4/14 at 04:51 PM |
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I second R-Tech!
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coozer
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| posted on 3/4/14 at 05:01 PM |
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160amp big enough to construct a chassis and suspension components?
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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r1_pete
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| posted on 3/4/14 at 05:27 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by coozer
160amp big enough to construct a chassis and suspension components?
Plenty, R-Tech advised me against the 200 amp for use on a domestic supply as it would pop fuses above 160. I've done 6mm aluminium with no
trouble, steel on DC takes a lower current, due to no switching.
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edthedrummer
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| posted on 3/4/14 at 05:47 PM |
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2mm mild/stainless takes about 60-70 amps to give you an indication.
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snakebelly
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| posted on 3/4/14 at 08:14 PM |
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Another vote for rtech, both my mig and Tig came from them
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sdh2903
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| posted on 3/4/14 at 08:34 PM |
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Sorry to sidetrack but have been looking at giving Tig a go at some point. Can I ask is it possible to get reasonable with a tig just with practice?
Or is it wise to get some tuition?
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DanP
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| posted on 3/4/14 at 09:56 PM |
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A vote for R-tech TIG161, great machine
You can learn tig yourself, get a nice machine and it makes it easier, there are plenty of instructional videos from weldingtipsandtricks.com
Edit: personally I wouldn't weld a chassis withou plenty of practice on other things and destructive testing of welds...
[Edited on 3/4/14 by DanP]
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mark chandler
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| posted on 3/4/14 at 11:19 PM |
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Practice, practice practice.
Make sure you are comfortable, and enjoy.
My RTEC is really good, 200amp model but I do not think I have ever run above 100amps, decent auto mask is a must, I also have a small water cooled
torch which is much easier to use, made the cooler from an old central heating pump and 2 gallon tank.
Get a welder, brake your TIG cherry making a nice stand on castors to move it and the bottle around.
It is lovely after MIG, takes much longer but no splatter and more satisfying IMHO.
I have never bothered with the slope, pulse functions, just waggle the pedal 
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907
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| posted on 4/4/14 at 06:49 AM |
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My advice would be that before you blow your whole welding budget on the TIG set you look into
the argon supply side of things.
TIG is very gas hungry, mainly due to the slow nature of the process. If the plan is to use it on stainless
then the probable need for back purging compounds this issue still further.
HTH
Paul G
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FuryRebuild
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| posted on 4/4/14 at 12:01 PM |
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Check out the Inverter Fusion solid state range.
I have one, and it's fantastic. It has all the extra bits such as pulsing, timing for spot welds, etc.
When all you have is a hammer, everything around you is a nail.
www.furyrebuild.co.uk
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coozer
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| posted on 9/4/14 at 03:23 PM |
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Ok, can I use the mig gas bottle I have to weld mild steel? Its a argon mix with oxygen and Co2??
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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mark chandler
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| posted on 9/4/14 at 04:01 PM |
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Has to be argon, you will need to trade your bottle, gauges will be okay.
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