Finally got round to fitting the aeroscreen but reckon it's 60mm too high.
Cut the bottom to match the scuttle but the Dremel cut-off discs leave it slightly opaque.
Anyone know how to achieve a good transparent edge? It's going to be easier to cut straight across the top off than re-profile the bottom edge so needs to be a good finish.
Thanks in anticipation, Pewe

hmmm, not sure. try on a scrap bit first, but jig saw with a fine metal blade perhaps?
i remember we had to do it at school many many years ago, and i forget how it was done

I used to use an old sharpened hacksaw blade as a metal scraper. Sharpened off the teeth and cut a standard blade into 3.

Scrape it along the sawn/cut edge holding the blade with both hands.

Once there's no more teeth/cutting marks in the acrylic I then used to use Brasso to polish and buff it up.

Worked really well but a little labour intensive!

When cutting Lexan previously I have left the film on or covered up the surfaces with masking tape to avoid scratches, then cut it with a jigsaw (same blade as for ali sheet) at slow to medium pace (to avoid it melting and sticking back together!). Once cut, I used a surform to even out any wobbles in the "straight" line , ran a metal ruler along the flat edge, then at an angle on the "corners".

Worked for me, but others might have other methods.

Cheers

Simon

quote:

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Originally posted by McLannahan
I used to use an old sharpened hacksaw blade as a metal scraper. Sharpened off the teeth and cut a standard blade into 3.

Scrape it along the sawn/cut edge holding the blade with both hands.

Once there's no more teeth/cutting marks in the acrylic I then used to use Brasso to polish and buff it up.

Worked really well but a little labour intensive!

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quote:

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Originally posted by Humbug

quote:

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Originally posted by McLannahan
I used to use an old sharpened hacksaw blade as a metal scraper. Sharpened off the teeth and cut a standard blade into 3.

Scrape it along the sawn/cut edge holding the blade with both hands.

Once there's no more teeth/cutting marks in the acrylic I then used to use Brasso to polish and buff it up.

Worked really well but a little labour intensive!

---

It would take a long time to scrape off 60mm

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Once you have cut and polished the edge with fine wet and dry, try flame polishing if you have oxy/acetylene. Put your finest nozle in (No 1 or 2 if pos) and run along the edge with your flame at right angles to it fairly quickly. Try not to let the flame go across the face of the acrylic or you could get shadows on the face. Flame polishing is preferably done with a very fine jewellers torch but I have done it this way a few times and make sure it is acrylic and not polycarbonate or similar.

Masking tape mark your line cut with jigsaw then finish of with a sharp spoke shave

I cut mine the same as Humbug, Jigsaw slow speed, do it with the material at room temperature. Then used a small block plane to finish.
At the top edge I used a round over in a router with a plywood sheet backing to take off the edge, the lexan I used though was 6mm thick.
Cheers,
Bob

I'd cut it on a bandsaw (for straight edge and speed) don't use your dad's finest cabinet making gear though, or jigsaw with fine blade, then draw file, sand, wet and dry then buff or Brasso /G3 . You will achieve a factory finish if you work at it guaranteed!!

Wear goggles gfor the sawing as the chips are very damaging to eyes
If using a jigsaw make sure it doesnt scratch the face of the screen - either leave on protective coating or get it covered with card etc

hth
Mike

Thanks guys. I think I'll mask it up first with masking tape and try the fine jigsaw blade first and then scrape & polish.
Cheers, Pewe
PS Sorry Bob what was that you were saying????

Scrape the edge. Stanley knife blade held vertically will do it if nothing more suitable handy.

I used to work with acrylic/poly sheet occasionally, i used a router. It gives a very fine edge and you can then rub it to a glass finish if you're patient. Cock it up and it'll crack though, go slow.

Sorry didnt explain too well, the lexan I used was 6mm thick rather than having a sharp edge along the top of the screen I used a round over bit in a router to give it a uniform edge, the lexan was clamped onto ply as I did this.
As said above I have used a router to cut Lexan this gives a superior edge but its mighty scary unless your a router whizz kid.
Cheers,
Bob

[Edited on 9/1/09 by splitrivet]

Bob, explanation was fine it was the wobbly bits that were distracting me. Cheers, Pewe

Oh right, I keep dribbling every time I see em.
Cheers,
Bob