OK...I think I'm at a stage where I can start trying to get the buck really smooth ready for the mould to be taken.
*However* due to the size of it, a single can of Halfrauds filler primer survives 1-2 applications. Not really a cost-effective method....
Now...my SIP compressor (CostCo deal) came with a spray gun.
Can I get a 5L tin of high build primer from Autopaint and use that spray gun?
What else will I need? Any recommendations welcome.
I'm guessing from the Autopaint site I will need:
Fillers
5 Ltr Cellulose Highbuild (GREY) £14.95
Thinners
25 Ltr Cellulose Standard £14.95
Anything else? (bearing in mind I'm a spray virgin and the thing's been sat on the shelf for nearly a year just gathering dust)
Stpehen
In my (rather limited) experience I think you might be better off with an acid etch primer (two part) This should go off really hard and be easier to get a smooth finish ready for top coat.
I'm after filler primer to get rid of the imperfections - probably going to take several iterations before I'm happy.
Don't think etch primer will give the thickness of covering I'm looking for.
The stuff I bought from my local paint factors was recommended as high build primer. It comes with activated thinners. One tip - you can get a good
heavy layer by hand brushing it on and flatting back with 240 production paper. This way you get a better build up - just spray the last coat on.
This is what I did with my modded body and it worked a treat.
2 pack surfacer is what you want, no thinners required ,get some heat in the room and launch it on. autopaint are a national paint factor and its
about£14 a litre with the activator
what about cleaning the spray gun?
Steve, might be worth having a quick read of this ?
http://www.beardmorebros.co.uk/website%20pages/update_12th_May_2003.htm
He had loads of problems using cellulose paint when making bucks
Andy...
I do not know how imperfect your surface is but here is my 2p's worth.
Using filler primer for large imperfactions will be time consuming and costly. Bear in mind it is some stuff suspending in a solvent that evaporates.
I do not know what proprotion is solid.
The way I would do it is to slap on 2 part body filler then sand it down as smooth as possible. Any minor scratches that would result from 400 grade
or finer sanding paper are then filled up using filler primer.
DONT use a 2 Pack spray paint unless you have a spray booth and breathing apparatus as it is highly toxic!!
If you use etch primer it comes ready thinned but you can clean the gun with ordinary thinners.
regards
keith
Suffolk
quote:
Originally posted by andyb64
Steve, might be worth having a quick read of this ?
http://www.beardmorebros.co.uk/website%20pages/update_12th_May_2003.htm
He had loads of problems using cellulose paint when making bucks
Andy...
im sure there is a non isocyanate type of filler primer ,as far as all the little bits go i give the panel a good coat of primer and use single pack
stopper to fill the little holes thenprime again .
ive used two pack for years never done me any harm or the dwarfs that live in the garage loft
Sorry Steve, just wouldn't want you to go through all of the hassle John did . It was fine once he used 2 pack paint.
Andy...
quote:
Originally posted by andyb64
Sorry Steve, just wouldn't want you to go through all of the hassle John did . It was fine once he used 2 pack paint.
Andy...
We use a Poly Hi-build primer and gloss for our bucks and to repair moulds. Most GRP shops stock it, but dont think its available in tins of less than
5l, oh and it aint cheap. I used a good quality acrylic paint rated for trucks on one of my last boat plugs, and got mirror finish results. The tricks
to use a good release agent. For added safety u can also spray the buck prior to the gelcoat with pva release agent, (the blue stuff) its better than
applying it with a sponge but you will have to spend more time polishing/cutting the mould surrface.
have fun
Shug.