Cheaper and does the same job. If you want to you can use a big drill to remove most of the rivet head. Then use a punch and give the rivet body a sharp tap, it should fall apart easily enough.
Can anyone tell me where I can get a set of metric rivet removing drill bits?
I need to put some packing back in between side panel and underside of chassis, the drill drills out the mandrel and further up the shank a wider
drill skims the head off of the rivet.
I've seen imperial sets advertised for aero use I assume they are available metric somewhere?
Just use a normal drill Cheaper and does the same job.
If you want to you can use a big drill to remove most of the rivet head. Then use a punch and give the rivet body a sharp tap, it should fall apart
easily enough.
Hi mate,
Welcome to the mad house.
Is this a tongue in cheek question or serious??????
I use the same size bit that originally drilled the hole to. Removed numerous rivets in my time with no problems at all.
If the head come off and leaves the shank then these can be knocked off very easily. Give it a go and you will see what i mean. If you are concerned
about dead rivets inside you chassis making a noise - trust me you wont hear them and if you do you arent driving hard enough!! Some people have
applied that waxy stuff inside chassis to add protection and stop them rattling.
The other option is to cut out the square tubing and weld in a new section - this way you done have dead rivets inside or old holes.
quote:
Originally posted by flak monkey
Just use a normal drill
If you want to you can use a big drill to remove most of the rivet head. Then use a punch and give the rivet body a sharp tap, it should fall apart easily enough.
Serious question!
I started with your suggested method last night & was promptly told by a friend that bits were available specifically to do this.
They have a 3mm bit for the first 10mm or so then it goes out to a 8 or 9mm bit for the remainder.
The 3mm takes out the mandrel & the 10mm takes off the head.
The job is done now it was just for future use.
Thanks anyway.
Hi all,
One thing you should do is punch out the mandrel (nail) from the pop rivet first with a sutaible punch before drilling out the rivet with the correct
size bit. Else the drill will wander off once is reaches the very hard mandrel. You stop drilling once the head falls off, then punch the remander
through the blind hole.
Dan
That's a spot weld drill not a rivet drill, it drills the weld centre then cuts the top panel. You can use the same drill as the original and go straight through the hole, the head will ride up the drill and be a sod to thread off or as said, something like 8 or 10mm to take the head and punch the rest in with a nail or something.
quote:
Originally posted by Bluemoon
Hi all,
One thing you should do is punch out the mandrel (nail) from the pop rivet first with a sutaible punch before drilling out the rivet with the correct size bit. Else the drill will wander off once is reaches the very hard mandrel. You stop drilling once the head falls off, then punch the remander through the blind hole.
Dan
quote:
Originally posted by DaveFJ
quote:
Originally posted by Bluemoon
Hi all,
One thing you should do is punch out the mandrel (nail) from the pop rivet first with a sutaible punch before drilling out the rivet with the correct size bit. Else the drill will wander off once is reaches the very hard mandrel. You stop drilling once the head falls off, then punch the remander through the blind hole.
Dan
bugger - forgot to mention that part - totally agree!
porblem is you elongate the original rivet hole...
quote:
Originally posted by DaveFJ
porblem is you elongate the original rivet hole...
I spend twice as long on this site because of that avatar 