There are 2 items on my SVA fail list that I am struggling with.

(formula27, plan built).

1. lower dash radius; needs to be > 19 mm radius. The dash is plywood with angled sides.

Ideally if there was a semi-circular shaped rubber section I could fit that (or does the radius need to continue behind the dash so it needs to be a circlewith a 90 degree segment cut out?

I could make up a strip from ply but the anged sides make it more complex.

Current lines of thought are fixing a pipe lagging tube (cut in 1/2 or 3/4 and cover with vinyl) but would that be ok?

*** added - ideally the trim cna be removed easily shold I not be able to make a good job of it.

2. Next I need to get at the back of my speedo - how do I do this? I didn't fit the scuttle nor dash and have not found how the dash is fixed!! Nor do I know exactly how the scuttle is fixed (part from an angle strip riveted along the front) nor do I know if I can remove the scuttle just on its own.

Again current thinking is I have to cut a rectangle in the scuttle at the front (inside engine bay) and fit an access panel.


Ideas/suggestions much appreciated!

[Edited on 23/10/06 by 02GF74]

If you do decide to go down the pipe lagging route make sure it looks permanant. Testers are wise to the lob a bit of lagging onto the bottom of the dash trick and need to be reassured during the test/retest that it is a permanant fixture. My solution was to mount the lagging to a sheet of abs plastic & then cover the whole lot in fablon and secure it to the dash. This way it looked permanat but could be removed if needed after the test.

I doubt whether youll be able to remove the scuttle on its own as all of your switches & gauges will be earthed to the chassis somewhere & you might balls that up, also the steering column probably goes through your dash somewhere which might also cause you problems. My advice would be to try to figure out how either the dash, or how the panel at the front of the scuttle in the engine bay is attached. Using the engine bay panel would be favourable so that you can get to the back of the speedo.

Whats the prblem with the speedo btw?????

Dash radius can be min 5mm if deformable, ie rubber. You could cut and glue some hose along the bottom?

For the dash bottom I used some split breather hose stuck on with clear sealant. It was very well held on, but soft enough to have some give in it. The tester seemed happy with it, and the cost was a fiver or so.

Stu

Is your dash covered with anything? peel it off and put some padding under the covering so the edge can't be felt or shave some off it so it isn't square then pad it. I'd try undoing some screws as it looks like the dash is fixed separate to the scuttle and the scuttle may lift off leaving the dash in place if the original builder thought about it.

Could you get some 20mm radius beading and fit that to the bottom. Two peices togeterh would make 180° or three pieces makes 270°.

What about a 40mm dowel and a router. I wouldn't want to try this myself, but if you're an expert you could give it a go.

Is there a joiner's shop near you? They may be able to route you a long length of whatever you need.

For the dash radius you can do what I did.

Get some 19mm rubber water hose and split it along it's length, put it along the bottom edge and then only on the back staple gun it to the ply, worked a treat and when SVA is over you just remove the staples and remove it.

Not sure about the speedo I'm afraid!

HTH,
Rich.

[Edited on 23/10/06 by shortie]

Wouldnt it need to be 38mm hose to get the 19mm radius?

There is a reason SVA wants the dash radius/padding there.... it's because in a front ender, whether you submarine under the belts or not, there's a good chance you're going to hurt you legs on the dash.

The examples of this I can think of.... a chap on here (who several times posted his recomendations of how to make these safer) who badly hurt his shins on the underside.

There was also that Westie owner who front ended and jammed (yes jammed) the spare key under his knee cap when his knees hit this area.

I can't imagine how bad that must feel to have a key underneath your knee cap!

Put some decent looking padding there... and keep it!
It may just keep you able to walk that little bit longer!


Cheers,
James

quote:

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Originally posted by James
There is a reason SVA wants the dash radius/padding there.... it's because in a front ender, whether you submarine under the belts or not, there's a good chance you're going to hurt you legs on the dash.

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thanks for suggestion on radius.

It seems the dash is screwed into brackets and the screws go in from the fornt and are underneath the cover/padding (yes, there is some padding but not enough). So a panel appears to be the easiest way - just need to figure out how large to make it and how to fit it so it is air tight, add somes rigidity and is easily removable (rivnuts here we come....)