Getting to the point of paint preping and wondering how much I'll need to cover all the body except the wings on a 7 also I know about etch primer for ally but if ( or rather where) I need to fill some "imperfections" do I fill before the primer or after . Also what paint type is best for the home spray man . I'm assuming Cellulose rather than 2k or is there a half way house thats tough and easy/ safe to use.

Any contribution greatfully accepted.

Cheers

i'll tell you what i think, but they'll be soooooo many different responses and opinions to this question

i'd fill before primer. depending on how bad these imperfections are. if they're more than a scratch which would show through the paint the fill first. you can also get a high build (filler) primer which should be sprayed after the etch primer, but it will only really fill scratches from sanding.

i'd prefer to use cellulose paints. this avoids the cyanide in 2k paint. cellulose is hard to get hold of though, but can be bought on line for some reason. i went to my local paint supplier today. he said its illegal to sell. but halfords sell it...

bear in mind i've not properly sprayed anything yet though, except a quick shot of some cellulose paint i got in halfords. results were not bad, and i know part of the reason for my crap finish.

One tip I definitely give is not to sand the body glass smooth before the primer, doing so will just make the paint more libel to fall off. Sand the whole body with around 120 grit then prime, this will give the primer a better key and any sanding should be kept within the paint layer. Also let each layer dry properly, I leave them over night to cure. Forget about shine till the last coat, just build up a good even layer then sand that down with something like 1200 grit w&d – with a sanding block, push the car outside to look for any patches and then spray a thinned down final coat to make it gloss.

Painting can not be rushed (especially DIY), do so and you'll be wasting your time and money.

Sevens bodies arent big so id go for 1-2 litres, probably 2 to be on the safe side. There should be places you can get cellulose paint done as a professional paint suplly guy near me does them all, as a last resort halfords can mix it for £25 a litre but you might want to call in advance to check they have enough stock. I think with glass fibre you need to use slightly less cellulose like 40% but check first.
Adam

Thanks guys all much apreciated

I took the shine off my gel coat before spraying with scotchbright pads and soapy water rather than using wet&dry paper.As Mr Whippy sais let it dry between coats .Mine has come out a nice shiny black.It was supposed to be flat black.This was due to Too many coats without leaving enough time between them.I used a gallon of paint,and my side panels and bonnet are not painted

[Edited on 15/4/08 by triumphdave]

www.paints4u.com are very good.

[Edited on 16/4/08 by AR-CoolC]

[Edited on 16/4/08 by AR-CoolC]

Thanks

Ian

Flopping a 70% thinner based paint (cellulose) onto gel coat is not a good idea.

I would use a 2 part etch, followed by a polyester high build (no inter flatting), dry flat the HB with 360, followed by a polyester basecoat (1+2+a drop if metallic) of your chosen colour and nicely topped with a 1k clearcoat. All the above are easily and legally available and not less healthy as celly.

All painted surfaces to bekeyed with red scotchbrite and any stoppering to be done with plastic padding elastic prior to any painting and graded with 240g before etching.

Thanks Mark

You are the man ! as they say.

Are you sugesting etch primer on the gel coat as well ? or just roughing it up and then HB primer ?

Not Metalic , I'm not that brave .

Have you a generous estimate of quantities of each needed ?

The wings are staying gel colour the flip front (nose/bonet) is gel coat also the scuttle, all the rest is ally

Thanks
Ian

The etch primer is a VERY thin coat and I would use it everywhere, with 2k iso you could get away with it, but then you would die and it wouldn't matter.

Metallic is as easy as solid so don't cramp your style, yellow or any of the 'urine yellow pearls' are a real sod as they are virtually transparent, and may take upto 10 coats to achieve opacity.

0.5l etch
1.0l High build
1.5l colour (3.0l of yellow)
1.5l 1k clear
10 x 340 discs
10 x 240 discs
1.0l spirit wipe
4 x tack rags
2 x 1000 WD Knibbing paper
0.5l Farecla G3
6 x 500ml Carlsberg Export

quote:

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Originally posted by Mark Allanson
The etch primer is a VERY thin coat and I would use it everywhere, with 2k iso you could get away with it, but then you would die and it wouldn't matter.

Metallic is as easy as solid so don't cramp your style, yellow or any of the 'urine yellow pearls' are a real sod as they are virtually transparent, and may take upto 10 coats to achieve opacity.

0.5l etch
1.0l High build
1.5l colour (3.0l of yellow)
1.5l 1k clear
10 x 340 discs
10 x 240 discs
1.0l spirit wipe
4 x tack rags
2 x 1000 WD Knibbing paper
0.5l Farecla G3
6 x 500ml Carlsberg Export

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anything to add ?