bi22le
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| posted on 4/12/11 at 07:02 PM |
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how do i solve my wheel stud spinning
Hi all.
Tried to get my wheels off to day. last nut on the last wheel a yep it spins.
I have tried hammering and jamming a flat blade on the back of the stud but tests no good.
I thinking of chemical welding the back of the stud to the hub. once i have got the wheel off ill try and get the chemical weld off so its not
unbalanced.
Its an Ali hub with splinned studs.
any other thoughts or advice?
Track days ARE the best thing since sliced bread, until I get a supercharger that is!
Please read my ring story:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/13/viewthread.php?tid=139152&page=1
Me doing a sub 56sec lap around Brands Indy. I need a geo set up! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHksfvIGB3I
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LBMEFM
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| posted on 4/12/11 at 07:11 PM |
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Can you not get access to the back to drill it out, then replace it with one which you could bond in place
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flak monkey
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| posted on 4/12/11 at 07:12 PM |
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Grip it with mole grips?
Weld a nut on it so you can put a spanner/socket on it to stop it spinning?
Grind the head off it and just pull it through?
Many options.... 
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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mark chandler
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| posted on 4/12/11 at 07:12 PM |
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That sounds nasty, the studs are top hated with parallel splines so try and cut the back off by drilling or grinding then pull the whole lot
through.
It sounds like the hub is now FUBAR  unless you can get a stud with larger splines as it would be hard to build the metal up.
I suppose you could make a tapered plug and weld from the back then redrill the hole.
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liam.mccaffrey
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| posted on 4/12/11 at 07:13 PM |
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can you weld a nut on the back of the stud?
or grind spanner flats on it.
how are you going to fix this once you get the stud out?
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designer
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| posted on 4/12/11 at 07:20 PM |
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Never heard of that before!!
Maybe the stud is non-standard and has smaller splines!
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pewe
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| posted on 4/12/11 at 07:30 PM |
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My two pennie's worth - grip the nut with a set of mole grips then use a pad-saw with hacksaw blade and cut off the rear flange of the stud
between the stud head and the hub trying not to damage the ally too much.
As above my concern would be deciding what to do with the hole. Being the softer metal the ally is going to be stripped.
Perhaps remove the hub and have the hole welded up and drill out under-size so the new stud grips tightly?
HTH.
Cheers, Pewe
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austin man
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| posted on 4/12/11 at 08:18 PM |
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can you get a dot of weld onto the stud ? other than that drill down the centre of the stud until you have fully drilled it out. Sounds like the stud
hasn't been driven home enough . You could also try tightening with an inpact wrench this may pull the splines through a little bit more
Life is like a bowl of fruit, funny how all the weird looking ones are left alone
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owelly
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| posted on 4/12/11 at 08:20 PM |
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Is it not possible to drill down the centre of the wheel stud from the wheel side and then drill bigger until the nut comes off? Or drill down oposite
sides of the nut and then use a narrow chisel to split it?
http://www.ppcmag.co.uk
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 4/12/11 at 08:28 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by owelly
Is it not possible to drill down the centre of the wheel stud from the wheel side and then drill bigger until the nut comes off? Or drill down oposite
sides of the nut and then use a narrow chisel to split it?
Just about to type the same reply, drill 180° on the wheel nut, but measure one of the others so you don't drill into the wheel. If you
don't have a small enough chisel, sharpen a blunt tap (carbon, not HSS) of the right diameter.
You can reclaim the hub by peening both sides of the offending hole with the ball end of a ball pein hammer
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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matt_gsxr
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| posted on 4/12/11 at 10:26 PM |
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I'd drill down the middle of the whole lot. Those studs are damned hard though, so maybe one of those Cobalt drills.
Once you have got the wheel nut off, then why can't you redrill the hub with new holes offset by 45degrees?
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hillbillyracer
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| posted on 4/12/11 at 10:51 PM |
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I'd also go with splitting the nut in some manner like Owelly & others have suggested.
& for fitting a new stud how about as suggested lightly peen the edges of the hole in to give it something to bite into & then fitting the
stud with some JB weld on the splines? I've used in on the stripped drive splines in the centre of the hub/end of axle on quad bikes & it
transmits the drive no bother, sure it'll cope with holding the wheel stud.
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PSpirine
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| posted on 4/12/11 at 11:11 PM |
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Have you tried tightening the stud? It may grip a bit better in the hub (depends how FUBAR'd the hub is).
If not, then split the nut if there's access to it as some others have suggested.
Guess that's what you get with ally hubs..
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bi22le
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| posted on 4/12/11 at 11:36 PM |
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Cheers with the advice.
there is no access to the rear of the stud. the brake disk and upright are in the way. unless im missing something there is no way of getting the hub
off with the wheel on. Only access is a long screw driver or a finger.
i don't have access to a welder and i how am i ment to drill through a very hard stud if it spins very freely!!? nice idea though
The stud and nut is a weird setup. they are evolution 4 spokes wheels so have massive holes which the nut goes right down inside so there are loads of
turns. in theory though cutting the head off of the nut will still allow the wheel to come off. its just then about cutting th stud out.
As the stud span when putting on.the wheel i am hoping its not actually that tight and chem weld will hold enough to get it off
I hope the Ali hub is not fubar as they are expensive.
Great idea of peening the Ali shut to purchase on the new spline.
I really hope i don't ruin the hub further or the wheel doing this.
Track days ARE the best thing since sliced bread, until I get a supercharger that is!
Please read my ring story:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/13/viewthread.php?tid=139152&page=1
Me doing a sub 56sec lap around Brands Indy. I need a geo set up! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHksfvIGB3I
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owelly
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| posted on 4/12/11 at 11:47 PM |
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Die grinder or Dremmel type thing will chew through your nut. It make take some time but it'll get there!
http://www.ppcmag.co.uk
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hillbillyracer
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| posted on 5/12/11 at 12:06 AM |
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Nut buried in the wheel a fair bit then? BUGGER!!
Is it a plain stub axle design with two opposed taper-roller bearings? Might it be possible to get at the bearing retaining nut through the wheel
centre or is there no access through there? Even if it meant butchering the steel hubcap over the nut you could then get the nut off & by
unbolting the brake caliper pull the hub assembly off the stub axle to gain access to the rear of the stud.
There'd likely be a split pin through the hub nut but so long as you get a socket on it'd shear off & knock out with a punch later.
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hughpinder
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| posted on 5/12/11 at 09:22 AM |
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Get one of these box wrenches to put over the wheel nut - you may have to cut it down a bit so the drill will reach, but leave enough to grip with
some mole grips, then drill out as suggested, centre punch, and make sure you use a cutting fluid(Its well worth having a can of 'drill and
tap' spray - spray some on your hacksaw blades to quarter your sawing effort!). If you use cobalt drills, be aware that they can shatter if
twisted in the hole you're cutting, easily done if tying to stop a pair of mole grips moving and using a hand drill - I sliced a finger to the
bone when it happened to me (through a pair a riggers gloves), and I had to use pliers to pull the bits of drill out of the car bodywork.
One of these
http://www.cromwell.co.uk/KEN5811180K
And some of this
http://www.cromwell.co.uk/SHR7324210K
Regards
Hugh
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daviep
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| posted on 5/12/11 at 09:54 AM |
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How about some pictures so we can suggest a more specific solution to your problem.
Who makes the hub and is it a sierra or cortina replacement?
Have you had a look at the other side to see if there is an alternate way of stripping them to access the the back of the stud?
Davie
“A truly great library contains something in it to offend everyone.”
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bi22le
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| posted on 5/12/11 at 10:48 AM |
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I was.going to take photos but assumed its a common set up!
I suppose nothing is common!
Box wrench bit and mole grips is a clever way to stop it spinning i will consider that.
Due to the design of nut and wheel I only have to get the end off ( oh er) and deal with the stud after ( double oh er!!).
I have got a cheap dremel but the disks seem softer than metal and just disappear!
Track days ARE the best thing since sliced bread, until I get a supercharger that is!
Please read my ring story:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/13/viewthread.php?tid=139152&page=1
Me doing a sub 56sec lap around Brands Indy. I need a geo set up! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHksfvIGB3I
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Irony
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| posted on 5/12/11 at 11:09 AM |
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I did this once by putting a long nosed socket on the nut (which was sunk deep into the alloy) and that stuck out far enough for me to grip the nut
with a pair of mole grips. This then stopped it rotating. I then used a good drill bit and drilled the thing out down the hole in the socket. 1/2
inch socket works better than a 3/8
This could be the same solution as already suggested - Is a box wrench bit the same as a long nosed socket or deep socket?
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hughpinder
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| posted on 5/12/11 at 11:39 AM |
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box wrench usually has a different sized hex socket each end,and are made of steel tube, so not as robust as a socket. A deep socket will work the
same way, if it sticks out far enough.
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bi22le
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| posted on 5/12/11 at 11:39 PM |
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I wonto get a chance to put photos up until the weekend.
I work in the week and don't.get home till 6ish. its to cold and dark by then for us drive way workers!!
Track days ARE the best thing since sliced bread, until I get a supercharger that is!
Please read my ring story:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/13/viewthread.php?tid=139152&page=1
Me doing a sub 56sec lap around Brands Indy. I need a geo set up! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHksfvIGB3I
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stevebubs
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| posted on 7/12/11 at 10:25 AM |
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As above
Option 1:
deep socket on the nut.
Grip the socket tight with molegrips
Drill down the hole where you would normally put the ratchet.
Option2:
Small drill on the bit of the nut facing you (drilling well off the centre of rotation so shouldn't spin, or should be easy to stop spinning
with long nose pliers), then finish the split with a narrow chisel.
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liam.mccaffrey
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| posted on 7/12/11 at 11:14 AM |
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you could pour molten lead down the sides and right over the top of the nut and stud. This will hopefully keep it captive enough for you to dill the
end of the stud.
you could use a reverse thread stud remover thing to free the stud from the nut, melt the lead out and then unscrew the nut with a socket and hold the
stud captive with the stud remover.
may need to refinish the alloy but shouldlt damage it permanently though.
[Edited on 7/12/11 by liam.mccaffrey]
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steve m
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| posted on 7/12/11 at 11:16 AM |
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Have you tried a buzz gun, like a tyre fitters use?
or is the stud really loose in the hole, ie you can turn the nut by hand?
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