Simon
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| posted on 31/12/04 at 10:37 PM |
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Painters - advice please!!
Chaps,
Right, I've got a good coat of primer which I will sand before applying a topcoat.
What paper - 800 or higher or 800 ok. Pattern - circular or straight? Dry or wet (tried a small dry patch and paper clogs rather quickly!)
Once topcoat applied (Rover Monza Red) will need to sand this - so same questions - though I guess I'll need to do a final sanding with v.fine
(1200+) w&d.
What do you recommend for rubbing compound (have an old tube of Faracleca? G4?)
Anyway, look forward to any advice please.
Thanks and Happy New Year (when it comes) to you all!
Simon
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DarrenW
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| posted on 5/1/05 at 10:13 AM |
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Simon,
Im not a painter by trade but had a car done recently and took some notice. Please check my advice before taking it as gospel.
800 should be OK to rub down primer. if it starts to leave marks then switch to a finer grade. Circular pattern and wet. put small amount of squeezy
in the water to act as lubricant. If there are any areas you are not sure if prepped enough apply a guide coat and re-sand. My painter used aerosol
can (black but any other dark colour will do) and very lightly applied dusting over the primer. Objective is to leave very light coat and not a solid
block of colour. This was especially useful to check repaired areas on flat panels. The definite trick to all of this is preparation. Even the
smallest of blemishes hardly noticeable show up badly in the top coat. I was told that if you are not experienced then wear a thin cotton glove when
feeling for the finish before top coat is applied (available in body shops - the ones that sell pain not banana soap).
For the top coat, if applied correctly and the gun is set up right then you shouldnt need to sand down. If you do need to the 1200 is quite severe.
Ive used 2000 wet to bring up old paint before. Then use Ferecla G3 followed by G10. My painter used polishing mop tool for final cutting. Very easy
to damage the paint by burning or wearing through corners. Use lots of water - he had an old squeezy bottle and kept applying water as he worked.
White crap went everywhere and seems to saok into block paving and pathways so be careful where you do it.
Of course if it all goes wrong then the worse that could happen is that either you start again or get a local body shop to do it for you. Most se7ens
dont have much body work so it shouldnt cost much.
I hope this helps.
If anyone knows more than me please correct any errors. As i say im no expert so before trying out the above on the main areas practice them on a
hidden area.
Darren.
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Simon
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| posted on 5/1/05 at 09:38 PM |
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Darren
Thanks for reply, had almost given up hope!!
Anyway, advice will be heeded - pretty much what I'd expected (except for the final rub with 2000 if required!
As for having it pro sprayed, a friend of my fathers had a word with the bodyshop bloke who's just resprayed his BGT, and if I suppliedhim with
perfectly prep'd panels so he only had to blow over top coat, he wanted £600. Bit steep me thinks.
At worse I just lay on a few extra coats and spend time cutting back
ATB
Simon
[Edited on 5/1/05 by Simon]
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 5/1/05 at 09:44 PM |
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I disagree with wet flatting, modern primers are designed to absorb the first liquid they come into contact with (usually the top coat!). If you wet
flat, your primer will absorb the moisture and slowly release it through you top coat as microblisters, it may take months, but it will happen.
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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