Fishface
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| posted on 7/2/05 at 01:26 PM |
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fixing bodywork
Hopefully getting bodywork soon can anyone advise as to type of rivets to use, what to cut the GRP with, what to bond to bondywork with i.e silicone
etc etc
All tips greatly appreciated.
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locoboy
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| posted on 7/2/05 at 01:34 PM |
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Many people have differing views on the type of rivets to use.
But the main consensus on the sealant to use is stuff called sikaflex - you will NOT be able to remove the panels after using this stuff so think
about what you want to be removable and what you dont before you do it.
Mask up the GRP and just drill with a normal sharp drill bit.
ATB
Locoboy
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NS Dev
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| posted on 7/2/05 at 01:37 PM |
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Use rivets which are sealed, i.e. sealed end rivets. (they have a "cup" instead of a "tube" as the rivet bit, i.e. you
can't see the ball on the end of the mandrel)
Use Sikaflex, or equivalent, for bonding/sealing. (this is a Polyurethane Adhesive/Sealant, often abreviated to "PU Adhesive"
[Edited on 7/2/05 by NS Dev]
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Snuggs
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| posted on 7/2/05 at 02:03 PM |
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Drilling GRP
When drilling GRP, use a drill with the sharp edge removed and you will avoid chipping the gel coat off the moulding and thus avoid having a ragged
hole.
Stick a piece of masking tape over the position of the hole and mark with a pencil. The tape will help avoid the drill slipping and leaving a mark
across your nice new moulding.
ps All my GRP panels except the rear are bolted on using st/st M6 bolts, washers and nyloc nuts. Rear panel is riveted cos I dont expect to have to
take it off !
[Edited on 7/2/05 by Snuggs]
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DarrenW
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| posted on 7/2/05 at 02:19 PM |
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I used PU adhesive for my side panels - they are stuck fast, defo not removeable (made by Wurth but Sikaflex is similar stuff). Make sure both
surfaces are sound and clean.
I cut my panels using a Rotozip tool and special spiral saw for fibreglass. They can also be used for many other materials with the right bit. I got
mine off ebay for £30. It was a bargain and works brilliantly (after a bit of practise).
HTH
Darren.
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Mix
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| posted on 7/2/05 at 04:15 PM |
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When drilling GRP or perspex and it's derivatives I have found the best drill bits to use are the 'lip and spur' wood bits. These
have a central point to locate the bit and two spurs which score the circumfrence prior to the removal of material. These bits produce an excellent
finish provided you use minimal pressure.
Mick
PS Don't confuse lip and spur bits with auger type bits which have a screw thread for the central point.
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locoboy
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| posted on 7/2/05 at 04:27 PM |
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Mix,
I agree thats what i ment by a SHARP bit, its what i have used with no chipping on gelcoat . Nice clean cut.
ATB
Locoboy
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DaveFJ
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| posted on 7/2/05 at 04:28 PM |
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When riveting GRP to anything you should spread the load across as large an area as possible. I you don't then the ruivet heads will fret and
eventually pull through your GRP.
there are several ways of doing this:
1, use a thin strip of metal along the line of where the rivets will be effectively sandwiching the GRP between two layers of metal
2, use Rivet burrs - which are thin penny washers that you put under the rivet head to spread the load
3, get hold of special rivets which are designed for this kind of appluication and have a very large diamenter (but fairly flat) head
HTH
Dave
"In Support of Help the Heroes" - Always
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indykid
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| posted on 7/2/05 at 04:29 PM |
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i use a hand drill with a 1/2mm bit to start the hole.
to enlarge it, i have a really blunt bit for 4.8mm holes (it drilled most of the chassis rails for the floor) if any other size, i put the drill in
reverse and drill it that way. it makes plenty of dust, but is as quick as drilling with the bit going clockwise.
also for fastening dash/firewall into glassfibre scuttle with self tappers, if you ream out the first mm of the hole to about 4.5mm(8 ga screws)
having drilled the pilot hole about 3.2mm, it stops the gel coat chipping off around the hole, and lets the panel sit perfectly flat
hth
tom
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Mix
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| posted on 7/2/05 at 05:03 PM |
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When attaching GRP to the chassis I would recomend using adhesives for the primary attachment rather than rivets. As Dave says the idea is to spread
the load over as great an area as possible. Nowadays there are plenty of good adhesives available which will provide a bond far superior to
riveting.
Suitable adhesives will allow the joint to flex rather than fret.
I would always place a rivet or two at the start of each run of adhesive to minimise separation.
Mick
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DaveFJ
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| posted on 7/2/05 at 11:47 PM |
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Totally agree with mick, I will be using PU adhesive and large head rivets myself.
Dave
"In Support of Help the Heroes" - Always
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