scutter
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| posted on 22/6/05 at 01:35 PM |
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polishing out peel
Hi gent's,
Having just had my bodywork painted on the cheap by a friend, he's said that it's up to me to cut back and polish to a finish i'm happy
with.
Not a problem, but he suggested using 2000 grade wet and dry is this right?
If so is it used wet? and will an old tub of G10 polish be ok for restoring the shine?
Finally does it really need it? what do you think?
Image deleted by owner
ATB Dan.
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splitrivet
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| posted on 22/6/05 at 02:07 PM |
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Looks a bit jaffa to me dan,Ive used 2000's wet with soap then compo and got on OK.Marks your man on this though what type of paint is it.
Cheers,
Bob
I used to be a Werewolf but I'm alright nowwoooooooooooooo
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scutter
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| posted on 22/6/05 at 03:46 PM |
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Will await the word from the wise one
Believe it's celly paint.
And to compound my problems my PTM fuel tank has just split
ATB Dan.
[Edited on 22/6/05 by scutter]
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RazMan
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| posted on 22/6/05 at 06:55 PM |
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Definitely needs to be rubbed back IMO. Use lots of water with a drop of soap in it. It will look so much better and will be worth the
trouble............ trust me 
[Edited on 22-6-05 by RazMan]
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 22/6/05 at 09:00 PM |
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If you photograph peel, its heavy!
Yes, I agree with what has been said, use 1500 or 2000 wet WITH A BLOCK, soap is optional. Best to machine polish with G3 if you have it, but G10 will
do.
Beware of using an angle grinder with a mop on, it spins far too and will burn the paint
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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scutter
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| posted on 22/6/05 at 09:10 PM |
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bugger time for the brave pills (Don't want to mess this up)
Will post picks later.
ATB Dan.
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 22/6/05 at 09:40 PM |
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Flat out lightly and then mop back up, and repeat until you are happy (or rubbed through ), don't try to do it all in one go - Good Luck
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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scutter
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| posted on 22/6/05 at 09:40 PM |
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OK I give up can anyone suggest a stockist for 2000 gtade wetNdry as no one around oxford seems to go that fine.
Help Dan.
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GeoffB
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| posted on 23/6/05 at 02:21 PM |
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TRY A MOTOR FACTORS OR PAINT SUPPLIER AS ITS USED IN THE BODYSHOP INDUSTRY..UNIPART/BROWN BROTHERS ETC ETC
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DarrenW
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| posted on 24/6/05 at 02:26 PM |
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I flatted a car back with 2000 (wet and soap), then machined with G3 followed by G10. Follow Marks advice, it takes time but if there is plenty of
paint on it it will look great in the end. When you use the 2000 you will see dull and shiny bits (dul is obviously the high spots. When all dull (or
maybe almost all so you leave a bit on for the G3 to cut back) stop and G3 it. G10 will bring back the gloss. Good wax polish after to seal it all in
and stop future oxidising.
Its a satisfying job.
Oh - another thing dont use big angle grinder with mop head - way too fast. Polishing machine looks the same but slower - even with one of these care
is required on curves and edges (plenty of water to lubricate / cool the surface). If anything / anyone is nearby they will all get a bit of the
splash!! Move cars etc out of the way unless you want to spend a while washing it off.
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scutter
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| posted on 24/6/05 at 04:54 PM |
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Many thanks Darren and Co, that's taken the mystery out of the job, Is there any time limit to when i can do this because if i can find a
replacement fuel tank then it's SVA time and I may do it after.
ATB Dan.
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DarrenW
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| posted on 27/6/05 at 08:37 AM |
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AKAIK there is no major time limit to cutting back the bodywork. You will find tho' that the paintwork hardness will improve over the first few
weeks. I dont think this will make much difference to the final result. Maybe Mark A could confirm this??
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