Printable Version | Subscribe | Add to Favourites
New Topic New Poll New Reply
Author: Subject: 'Silver wheels' Paint on Fibreglass?
RazMan

posted on 26/4/06 at 10:06 PM Reply With Quote
'Silver wheels' Paint on Fibreglass?

Sounds a bit of a bodge I know.

I want to paint the backs of my fibreglass seats silver - the same silver as my wheels in fact. I happen to have a couple of cans of Halfrauds 'Silver wheels' left over from another project.

Will it be ok on my seat backs? It is certainly tough enough on the wheels.





Cheers,
Raz

When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box

View User's Profile E-Mail User Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member
TangoMan

posted on 26/4/06 at 10:11 PM Reply With Quote
Adhesion is the key!!

I would key then well with fine paper and apply some adhesion promoter/plastic primer.
Should be OK then if not the shiniest finish ever.

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
RazMan

posted on 26/4/06 at 10:17 PM Reply With Quote
I was thinking about a good coat of acid etch then a couple of coats of the silver. I'm actually looking for a slightly dull finish so I thought that it would be perfect.





Cheers,
Raz

When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box

View User's Profile E-Mail User Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member
Chippy

posted on 26/4/06 at 10:30 PM Reply With Quote
Not absolutely sure, but I don't think that acid etch works on GRP. I think your best bet is to form a mechanical bond by a good rubbing down with a fine wet and dry. atb Chippy


Plus make sure that all traces of release agent, and wax are removed, rub over with some solvent.

[Edited on 26-4-06 by Chippy]

View User's Profile E-Mail User View All Posts By User U2U Member
02GF74

posted on 27/4/06 at 07:02 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Chippy
Not absolutely sure, but I don't think that acid etch works on GRP.



from what I know, acid etch is for aluminium to attack the oxide coating hence providing a key for the paint. doubt is it has the same effect on other materials.

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
DarrenW

posted on 28/4/06 at 09:58 AM Reply With Quote
Im sure i have read somewhere that there is an etch primer or similar surface prep primer for fibreglass. The main pain might be that the backs of seta are rough so the finish might be questionable. Might be worth trying a low key area first. Do you have any off cuts from side panels etc to sample it on?

The backs of my seats are rough and looked a bit messy. I cleaned them up and applied some of the clear back to black tyre dressing (the stuff you can use on exterior plastics as well) which brought them up quite well. Obviously didnt change the colour though.






View User's Profile E-Mail User View All Posts By User U2U Member
RazMan

posted on 28/4/06 at 10:14 AM Reply With Quote
I've got some etch primer designed for fibreglass and it seems to work ok from past experience. I may have got the name 'acid' wrong there.

The seats are smooth backed so the preparation is simply flatting them back with a DA to ensure a good key. They are in fact the first ones from the mould and are therefore not perfect, hence my plan to paint them.

[Edited on 28-4-06 by RazMan]





Cheers,
Raz

When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box

View User's Profile E-Mail User Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member
andyharding

posted on 28/4/06 at 01:53 PM Reply With Quote
I'm using Acid #8 etch primer on my GRP. You can get this is spray cans from Halfrauds if you don't want to buy a 1L tin and put it in your gun.





Are you a Mac user or a retard?

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
chrisf

posted on 28/4/06 at 11:44 PM Reply With Quote
Having just painted my GRP bits twice, I don't think the DA is the tool to use. I suggest sanding the GRP with 400 grit on a board and use soapy water as you go. Once the seat back gets a haze, then it's ready to paint. The primer you have will work well, as will the base coat. Few seem to go this extra step, but I also used a professional clear coat. This adds the final hard layer and protects the basecoat from UV.

You can see my results on my website. Certainly not shiny!

--Chris

View User's Profile E-Mail User Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member

New Topic New Poll New Reply


go to top






Website design and SEO by Studio Montage

All content © 2001-16 LocostBuilders. Reproduction prohibited
Opinions expressed in public posts are those of the author and do not necessarily represent
the views of other users or any member of the LocostBuilders team.
Running XMB 1.8 Partagium [© 2002 XMB Group] on Apache under CentOS Linux
Founded, built and operated by ChrisW.