Paradoxia0
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 posted on 17/3/07 at 06:35 PM |
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Rover V8 and no oil pressure - help please!
Hi Guys
I really need help on this.
Since I first got the engine to fire up I have had no oil pressure what so ever. I ahve done as instructed in the Haynes manual and taken the oil pump
off and packed it with Vaseline 3 times, I have filled the filter and uses a squeezy bottle to force oil into the pump then getting the filter on
quickly and cranking it but still no joy.
That is 10 hours solid trying to get that to work now and I am absoultely at my wits end...
Can anyone help please?
Thanks
Mark
There is no replacement for displacement...
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flak monkey
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| posted on 17/3/07 at 06:38 PM |
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How is the oil pump driven on the RV8? I made up an attachment and spun the pump up with an electric drill until the oil pressure light went out on
the pinto. Not sure if you can do that on the RV8 though?
Have you rebuilt the engine? Did you check all of the bearing clearances while rebuilding? If there is excessive clearance in the mains of big ends
you will never get any oil pressure.
David
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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nitram38
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| posted on 17/3/07 at 06:39 PM |
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There is no easy way, other than what you suggested, unless you have a sandwich plate for an oil cooler and can prime it that way?
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Paul (Notts)
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| posted on 17/3/07 at 06:43 PM |
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As above I made a tool to fit in the drill and turn the oil pump via the dizzy hole this method works a lot better than packing with vasaline.. Have
not checked if I have got good oil pressure yet but have signs of oil arriving at the rockers. will post a pic of the rod but you can buy them online
from rimmer brothers.
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ecosse
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| posted on 17/3/07 at 06:43 PM |
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There is an oil pressure relief valve (on early v8's not sure about later ones) that is known to stick open, could that be causing it?
Or is the pump just not moving oil?
Cheers
Alex
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Paradoxia0
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| posted on 17/3/07 at 06:44 PM |
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Hi David
Apparently all of the bearings etc were replaced by the previous owner (who gave up part way though the build) and I have all of his recipts and the
bearings were on there so I do believe that.
The oil pump is driven by the dizzy and I think I weld the drive gear (not the sprocket though) to a rod and give the oil pump a good spin up with an
electric drill as you suggest - just need to get to my dads to get to the welder. Will definitely give that a try in the morning.
Nitram
Sandwich plate... I have heard/seen these but not entirely sure what they are... If you think it will help and you can enlighten me as to what to do
with it I will give it a go! I'll try nearly anything right now!
Mark.
There is no replacement for displacement...
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Paradoxia0
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| posted on 17/3/07 at 06:48 PM |
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Hi Alex
I have had the oil pressure relief valve out, cleaned and checked and it runs smoothly in its barrel. With the spink and nut in place the valve moves
all the way across so I assume that is all OK.
The pump is pumping all of the vaseline into the oil filter housing but no oil is getting into it.
One thing you have just made me think though is that the oil pickup in the sump might not be in the right place or something stupid like that....
Something else to check in the morning!
Cheers
Mark
There is no replacement for displacement...
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Paradoxia0
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| posted on 17/3/07 at 06:50 PM |
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Hi Paul
Sorry, missed your reply - not ignoring you 
As I replied to David, I think I will take the advise on the tool and try the electric drill approach in the morning.
Mark
There is no replacement for displacement...
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mark chandler
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| posted on 17/3/07 at 06:51 PM |
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If you pluck out the distributor you can see the you can see the top of the oil pump drive.
Get a bit of tube, bash the end oval so that it will engage with the oil pump drive, other in end your electric drill and spin the bugger until you
get oil flowing.
When its starts to pump the drill will slow.
Although its best to pack with vaseline I have managed to get them working by unscrewing the oil pressure sender, pouring in some oil in the hole (1
litre oil bottle with flexi hose end) , put the sender back and try again.
Because the drill will spin the pump so quickly it will draw oil up more easily.
Regards Mark
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froggy
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| posted on 17/3/07 at 07:18 PM |
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anothe method i use is to drop the sump and using an old pickup pipe with the strainer cut off ,piece of pipe and a diesel hand primer from an oldish
diesel citroen/peugot ,a coupleof litres of 5/30 oil and push the oil round the curciut by hand until you can see it dribble down the pushrods. if you
take the pump gears out and the cover and base of the pump housing are scored you might have problems priming as the presssure on the early dizzy
driven pumps is pretty crap compared to the gear driven pumps on the later engines
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nitram38
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| posted on 17/3/07 at 07:26 PM |
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One thing to check is that the pick up pipe is correctly installed.
I rebuilt a V8 rover engine about 20 years ago and seem to remember that the pick up was sucking in air.
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blueshift
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| posted on 17/3/07 at 07:38 PM |
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I made a priming tool for the rv8 out of a bit of 8mm ish rod (the donor sierra's bonnet stay), cut a slot in one end to engage the oil pump.
took the dizzy off and used a cordless drill, primed it from a completely dry engine in that way. took maybe 20 sec of whizzing before it started
shoving oil.
[Edited on 17/3/07 by blueshift]
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Blackbird Rush
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| posted on 17/3/07 at 07:46 PM |
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Ditto, check the pick up pipe, I had a RV8 in a Dax Rush and had loads of oil pressure issues
Main one was there was air getting in at the join between the pick up & the block, once removed, cleaned up & new gasket fitted all was
well.
You can get problems with the PRV sticking, best solution is to bin the STD pump body and fit a mocal remote take off, not very locost tho
Ash
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minordelay
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| posted on 17/3/07 at 09:00 PM |
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One method I have heard of, used on the a series engine where you can't get to the pump, is to fill the engine to the brim with oil eliminating
air in theory. Haven't ever tried it but easier than a strip down usually the drill trick works to be fair.
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wilkingj
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| posted on 17/3/07 at 09:12 PM |
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The Rover manual says vasseline in the oil pump, then spin up the pump with a rod in a drill via the hole where the Dizzy goes in. (Special Rover
tool)
I used an old Dizzy bottom end welded to a long bolt stuck in my leccy drill. That worked very well.
I also filled the oil filter with as much oil as I could without spilling it. (I do this on all oil changes as well).
Do NOT crank the engine over untill you have raised oil pressure / primed the system.
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
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Agriv8
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| posted on 17/3/07 at 09:26 PM |
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Not missing the basics How do you know you have no oil presure.
Have you tried a new oil presure switch.
I use a home made primer on my drill ( make sure you are going the right way ) i Keep going until oil osses out of the rocker posts.
Checked with a known sender and calibrated gauge. who's gauges / senders are you using
Regards
Agriv8
Taller than your average Guy !
Management is like a tree of monkeys. - Those at the top look down and see a tree full of smiling faces. BUT Those at the bottom look up and see a
tree full of a*seholes .............
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 17/3/07 at 09:41 PM |
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If the oil pump is pumping the vaseline into the filter then the pump is working . Would suspect air leak into pick up, oil level not covering pick
up, blocked pick up or possibly no pick up fitted?
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robinj66
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| posted on 17/3/07 at 09:42 PM |
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Check out www.v-8.org.uk . They are very helpful and will no doubt sort you out.
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02GF74
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| posted on 17/3/07 at 10:36 PM |
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as ^^^^ daid, how are you measuring oil pressure?
can the sender wiring be bad or sender itself not working?
is there any oil going round at all? you should see by removing the rocker covers.
a stuck pressure valve may give you high pressure but in I would have thought you'd still get some oil flowing to the top. Ypuld get low
pressure if the bearing clearances are too big as with a worn engine.
now since you say the vaseline is being moved out of the pump but no oil is in there it look very much like a pick up problem.
bear in mind that vaseline is a sem-solid so will be easier for the gears to hold than a liquid such as oil so although it looks good, one cannot rule
out oil pump problem.
you need to remove sump and look at the pick up.
a quicke test would be to put a similar size tube in connected to a hose that sits in a bucket of oil then whizz the engine over; if oil is
flowing then it is you pick up for sure.
noew to the tool; you can muy these, gort both the early p5/p6 pumps and later sd1 type (they have different dirves) from rimmer brotheres but that
is not low cost.
I made my own pump - a solid rod with slot cut in and then a tube over the end so that the drive will not slip out - could post a photo but I am on
dial up so slow so can't.
You are welcome to vborrow my drive assuming you have later sd1 type drive.
Use a cordless drill on the lowe speed seetting to which the oil pump - oncvce the pump primes, the reaction may rip a fast spinning drill out of your
hands so be careful.
I used the vaeseline and tool to good effect - worked 1st time - you can hear the oil hissing out from mthe rockers once done.
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Paradoxia0
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| posted on 17/3/07 at 10:56 PM |
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Thanks for all you help and suggestions.
I think first job in the morning is to take one/both of the rocker covers off and try priming the pump with an electric drill and see whether any oil
comes though doing that, if that fails, off with the sump!
I have a spare oil pump drive gear (off old dizzy) and some rod that I can use to make a priming tool but thanks to 02GF74 for the offer.
In answer to agriv8 I am using ETB gauges and senders (and I have a new sender and adapter that I got from them last week) so all should be good with
that. If I disconnect the sender cable and turn the ignition on the gauge slowly raises to the 90PSi needle so I know the Gauge works. I will however
double check by connecting my multimeter to the oil pressure switch to see if that changes state at all.
I will let everyone know how I get on tomorrow - fingers crossed!
Mark
There is no replacement for displacement...
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nitram38
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| posted on 17/3/07 at 11:01 PM |
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The oil pressure switch is a 3 prong one with N/O and N/C terminals. This used to be a cause of the engine failing to start as it fed the ignition. No
oil pressure, then no start/running.
Try a ohmmeter or continuity tester on this if you have this switch fitted, instead of your dash gauges.
[Edited on 17/3/2007 by nitram38]
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Agriv8
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| posted on 17/3/07 at 11:55 PM |
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good luck.
If you are under the car and can get access to a camera post up a photo of where you have your senders in the oil pump base.
dont count out the fact that you may have a dodgy sender I had an iffy VDO one that caused me engine builders dobts.
I hope tomorow that I have finally bottomed my efi coil packs firing at the right time in the right order. v8's just have too many damd
cylindars.
Taller than your average Guy !
Management is like a tree of monkeys. - Those at the top look down and see a tree full of smiling faces. BUT Those at the bottom look up and see a
tree full of a*seholes .............
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mark chandler
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| posted on 18/3/07 at 12:08 AM |
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You will know if its pumping oil, the drag is huge on the drill once it starts pumping, oil pumps can suck up to 8bhp on some engines.
Vaseline is used as it disolves in oil and melts, grease is not used as this can remain solid and block things up !
But then as above, the pickup does have stupid little gasket where it bolts to the block, little leak here and its sump off time.
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Simon
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| posted on 18/3/07 at 12:16 AM |
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The way I primed mine (bear in mind I have a remote filter), was to disconnect both end of filter lines (filter mounted near top of chassis), and fill
with oil. Reconnect to filter in/out ports.
Worked for me.
ATB
Simon
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Paradoxia0
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| posted on 18/3/07 at 11:34 AM |
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Update:
Used the bashed tubing tool as suggested by Mark and it worked a treat. After a few seconds I felt it "tighten up" and the oil light went
out and the gauge gently raised to 30psi where it seemed to stop. Kept the drill going for a bit until I could see oil slowly forming on the rockers
so I know oil ws getting through.
Put the dizzy back in and fired it up again and the gauge lifts to *just* above 0psi and the light stays on...
Any more suggestions or is this sounding like an engine rebuild is in order? (I really hope not!)
Mark
There is no replacement for displacement...
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