Valtra
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posted on 6/5/13 at 04:11 PM |
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Urgent setup problem
Hi
Got connection between laptop and ecu (Microsquirt) in Tuner studio but now can't get past the opening setup conflict
MAFMAP enabled when MAF is not
what the hell have I done ? I've now disconnected virtually everything from the relay board so that it's basically just a powered up ecu
with no sensors attached
How do I proceed ?
"If it looks like it works and it feels like it works, then it works"
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robocog
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posted on 6/5/13 at 04:29 PM |
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What sensors are you using?
MAF or MAP or both?
I'm not that familliar with microsquirt but if its anything like the megasquirt you need to go through an initial setup to tell it what to
expect and put some sane values in
Not sure if you got the unit with a pre programmed setup or not ??
if you did get it from a working machine - download the current setup from the ECU and save it with a meaningful name
If its a virgin unit - your going to have to tell it everything it needs to know and get that info on there
Time to dig into the manual and digest (or blag someone local to come over and get it setup...but then wheres the fun in that?)
I know the pain as I knew bugger all about ECU's and fuel injection before I went with Megasquirt - it took lots of reading to sink in for me
Regards
Rob
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Valtra
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posted on 6/5/13 at 05:17 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by robocog
What sensors are you using?
MAF or MAP or both?
I'm not that familliar with microsquirt but if its anything like the megasquirt you need to go through an initial setup to tell it what to
expect and put some sane values in
Not sure if you got the unit with a pre programmed setup or not ??
if you did get it from a working machine - download the current setup from the ECU and save it with a meaningful name
If its a virgin unit - your going to have to tell it everything it needs to know and get that info on there
Time to dig into the manual and digest (or blag someone local to come over and get it setup...but then wheres the fun in that?)
I know the pain as I knew bugger all about ECU's and fuel injection before I went with Megasquirt - it took lots of reading to sink in for me
Regards
Rob
I think I've sussed it .......for now
"If it looks like it works and it feels like it works, then it works"
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Valtra
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posted on 6/5/13 at 11:07 PM |
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Well dunno what I did but it let me add all the sensors to the relay board and didn't throw any woblies when I powered up between each
connection.
I tried the starter but it didn't want to start as you say there are probably many settings way way wrong . Various boxes were flashing up on
the results chart ... algorithm invalid etc etc
my basic setup is
Fiat Twin cam 1585cc
Suzuki GSXR 600 K6/7 TBs modified to remove secondary injectors and throttles using standard brown injectors which are apparently 225 l at 3bar
Edis with the vr sensorfinding the missing tooth 90degrees (9 teeth) BTDC (how do I set the tuner studio to fire 10 deg BTDC)
GM IAT and clt sensors
Suzuki TPS and MAP
Bosch Fidle valve
Innovate LCI with G5 gauge
Microsquirt v3 (MS2 v3 I think) pre loaded code whatever that means .
Efi Analytics tuner studio
Description
Description
[Edited on 6/5/13 by Valtra]
[Edited on 6/5/13 by Valtra]
"If it looks like it works and it feels like it works, then it works"
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dave_424
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posted on 7/5/13 at 09:17 AM |
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For fixed 10 degrees, go to basic setup, then more ignition options, then in the first box select fixed timing, then in the box below labeled
"timing for fixed advance" make sure it is 10 (or whatever you want your fixed timing to be)
Dave
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scudderfish
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posted on 7/5/13 at 09:25 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by Valtra
Edis with the vr sensorfinding the missing tooth 90degrees (9 teeth) BTDC (how do I set the tuner studio to fire 10 deg BTDC)
Don't confuse the angle where the missing tooth is with what the firing position is. 90 degrees is just how EDIS 4 works (it's 50 degrees
on my V8). If you remove the connection between EDIS and MS, the EDIS will happily drive the spark at 10 BTDC all day. All MS does is tell EDIS what
the timing should be.
Having said that, if you run at 10 BTDC, it will be a gutless pig. 10 BTDC is a default limp home mode. You really should have a spark map that
varies dependent on speed and load. My map only has 4 cells with 10 in them, the rest vary between 8 and 36.
Regards,
Dave
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Valtra
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posted on 7/5/13 at 12:42 PM |
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Thanks guys
Once I can get it running tuner studio should be able to shape a suitable map for me , I just need it to cough into life
[Edited on 7/5/13 by Valtra]
"If it looks like it works and it feels like it works, then it works"
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Valtra
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posted on 11/5/13 at 02:30 PM |
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Control algorithm changed this from Maff/Map to Alfa n to clear the conflict coming up on tuner studio now have a loud buzzing that seems to come from
either the relay board as if a relay is in spasm or is it just the injectors ?....either way it still won't start . any suggestions ????
"If it looks like it works and it feels like it works, then it works"
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dave_424
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posted on 11/5/13 at 02:58 PM |
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Now that you have changed from MAP to Alpha-N, your tables may well be incorrect, on the fuel load side for Alpha-N you need 0-100, MAP would be
different.
To check if it is your injector that is buzzing, put the tip of a screwdriver on the injector body, and then press the end of the handle into your
ear, you will soon hear if it is the injector.
Are you getting any error messages in tuner studio?
If possible, you could go back to MAP (were you using MAP/MAF?) use just MAP, and then if there are any config errors, go into tuner studio,
communication, mini terminal, then turn ignition off and then back on again and it should tell you what is wrong with your config.
I did have that high pitched screeching noise coming from my set up the other day when wiring it in, can't recall what was wrong though.
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Valtra
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posted on 11/5/13 at 03:09 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by dave_424
Now that you have changed from MAP to Alpha-N, your tables may well be incorrect, on the fuel load side for Alpha-N you need 0-100, MAP would be
different.
To check if it is your injector that is buzzing, put the tip of a screwdriver on the injector body, and then press the end of the handle into your
ear, you will soon hear if it is the injector.
Are you getting any error messages in tuner studio?
If possible, you could go back to MAP (were you using MAP/MAF?) use just MAP, and then if there are any config errors, go into tuner studio,
communication, mini terminal, then turn ignition off and then back on again and it should tell you what is wrong with your config.
I did have that high pitched screeching noise coming from my set up the other day when wiring it in, can't recall what was wrong though.
thanks Dave
Just checked and yes there is a momentary high pitched buz from the injector but the overall major noise still comes from the relay board , I could
try removing each relay in turn to see which is rattling ?
"If it looks like it works and it feels like it works, then it works"
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Valtra
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posted on 11/5/13 at 03:20 PM |
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there is no control for simply Map just
Map/Maff
speed density
percent baro
Alpha-n
MAF
ITB
where do I go with that ?
"If it looks like it works and it feels like it works, then it works"
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dave_424
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posted on 11/5/13 at 03:21 PM |
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Yep, sounds like a plan.
After some searching, is it low battery, like when you are trying to start a car with low battery and all you get is the fast clicking noise.
That may well have been my problem when I got the buzzing, I was having low battery problems because I only have 2 motorbike batteries.
Have you got another car you can jump off?
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dave_424
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posted on 11/5/13 at 03:21 PM |
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Speed density is just MAP
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Valtra
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posted on 11/5/13 at 03:26 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by dave_424
Speed density is just MAP
Thanks ...why the f*** doesn't it say that ...
"If it looks like it works and it feels like it works, then it works"
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Valtra
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posted on 11/5/13 at 03:29 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by dave_424
Yep, sounds like a plan.
After some searching, is it low battery, like when you are trying to start a car with low battery and all you get is the fast clicking noise.
That may well have been my problem when I got the buzzing, I was having low battery problems because I only have 2 motorbike batteries.
Have you got another car you can jump off?
Hi The battery is a little dull and the engine tight due to new bearings and rings but it is connected to a mains charger .
whipped out the first relay nearest the plug and it shuts up , just going to check online which one that is controlling
cheers
"If it looks like it works and it feels like it works, then it works"
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Valtra
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posted on 11/5/13 at 03:32 PM |
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Ok
now set on speed density
how do the rest of the settings need to be
squirts per cycle 2?
injector staging ?
engine type odd or even fire ?
"If it looks like it works and it feels like it works, then it works"
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dave_424
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posted on 11/5/13 at 03:42 PM |
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2 squirts per cycle
Alternating
most engines are even fire so go with that.
One question, do you have a tune loaded? if you go to basic setup, fuel VE table, do you have a fuel table with a load of numbers?
Dave
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Valtra
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posted on 11/5/13 at 03:50 PM |
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Looks like the fidle relay so perhaps not crucial to getting the car started without Fidle but have I just transposed some wires on setup that is
causing the relay to rattle and groan ?
just disconnected the Fidle valve and the relay still buzzes I'll see if I can find it in tuner studio setup
"If it looks like it works and it feels like it works, then it works"
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Valtra
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posted on 11/5/13 at 03:53 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by dave_424
2 squirts per cycle
Alternating
most engines are even fire so go with that.
One question, do you have a tune loaded? if you go to basic setup, fuel VE table, do you have a fuel table with a load of numbers?
Dave
Thanks Dave
Yes there are tables there for afr fuel and sparks
"If it looks like it works and it feels like it works, then it works"
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dave_424
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posted on 11/5/13 at 04:00 PM |
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Sorry, but do you have a MAP sensor installed?
If not, then you will have to use Alpha-N (Only just realised that you were using microsquirt)
If I was going to set up your ECU then these are the steps/settings I would use:
Engine constants
- Use the required fuel calculator
- Choose Alpha-N
- 2 squirts per cycle
- Alternating injection staging
- Even fire
More engine constants
- Primary fuel load Alpha-n
- No secondary fuel load
- Multiply MAP
- Don't include AFR target
- Primary ignition load Alpha-n
- No secondary ignition load
Injector characteristics
- 1
- 0.2
- 75
- 25.6
- 66
- Different bank 2 settings off
Don't know ignition settings for EDIS, you probably have an understanding
Ego control off
Cranking settings
- 300RPM
- Flood to clear 80%
- Every event
That should get you started.
What fuel load % numbers do you have? 0-100 or 30ish-100?
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dave_424
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posted on 11/5/13 at 04:10 PM |
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Note that that is only for high impedance injectors
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Valtra
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posted on 11/5/13 at 04:14 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by dave_424
Sorry, but do you have a MAP sensor installed?
If not, then you will have to use Alpha-N (Only just realised that you were using microsquirt)
If I was going to set up your ECU then these are the steps/settings I would use:
Engine constants
- Use the required fuel calculator
- Choose Alpha-N
- 2 squirts per cycle
- Alternating injection staging
- Even fire
More engine constants
- Primary fuel load Alpha-n
- No secondary fuel load
- Multiply MAP
- Don't include AFR target
- Primary ignition load Alpha-n
- No secondary ignition load
Injector characteristics
- 1
- 0.2
- 75
- 25.6
- 66
- Different bank 2 settings off
Don't know ignition settings for EDIS, you probably have an understanding
Ego control off
Cranking settings
- 300RPM
- Flood to clear 80%
- Every event
That should get you started.
What fuel load % numbers do you have? 0-100 or 30ish-100?
Hi I've shut up the Fidle relay by changing the idle control algorithm to none perhaps the valve is physically stuck.
Yes there is a map sensor connected up on the TB's it is the standard Suzuki one , I'm prety sure it's wired correctly but not sure
if it's setup correctly as I'm sure GM units are the norm settings , but so far been unable to find data
Injectors
tested impedance as 11.8 so high
U tube setup vid recommends
1.0
.2
pwm 100%
time thresh 25.6
66 microsecs
is that ok ?
also you set no afr target is that just to get started ?
fuel load 26-118
"If it looks like it works and it feels like it works, then it works"
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dave_424
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posted on 11/5/13 at 04:21 PM |
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Oh okay then, what does the map sensor read when ignition is turned on, should be very near 100kpa
Those injector numbers are fine.
So if you are getting spark, and getting fuel injected then it should run.
Have you set up the fuel pressure up to the correct pressure?
If so then it should start, how close have you got it to starting so far? one thing I encountered was that it would cough into life from the cranking
settings, but when RPM went over the cranking threshold and it wanted to run on the fuel table, it would die. So I selected the group of cells around
the idle area and added about 10 to the numbers, after that it started and idled fine.
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Valtra
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posted on 11/5/13 at 04:26 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by dave_424
Oh okay then, what does the map sensor read when ignition is turned on, should be very near 100kpa
Those injector numbers are fine.
So if you are getting spark, and getting fuel injected then it should run.
Have you set up the fuel pressure up to the correct pressure?
If so then it should start, how close have you got it to starting so far? one thing I encountered was that it would cough into life from the cranking
settings, but when RPM went over the cranking threshold and it wanted to run on the fuel table, it would die. So I selected the group of cells around
the idle area and added about 10 to the numbers, after that it started and idled fine.
Hi just checked fuel pressure when the ignition is first turned on and the pump is operating there is around 4 bar momentarily then it dies as the car
does not fire and the pump stops
how am I going to read the map sensor is that on the tuner studio gauges or using my multimeter (what setting if so?)
"If it looks like it works and it feels like it works, then it works"
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Valtra
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posted on 11/5/13 at 04:31 PM |
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No spark !!!!!
where do I start looking . swap Vr sensor terminals ?
"If it looks like it works and it feels like it works, then it works"
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