Printable Version | Subscribe | Add to Favourites
<<  11    12    13    14    15    16  >>
New Topic New Poll New Reply
Author: Subject: "How to" OEM Focus ST170 ecu with Pats info.
FamilyGuy

posted on 18/5/19 at 02:27 PM Reply With Quote
So I'm getting a P0135 O2 sensor heater circuit, bank 1 sensor 1 fault. Wonder if I need a new lambda sensor.The MAF fault didn't return after I cleared it.

I have the ecu controlling the cooling fan which came on at 98C and didn't go off until 93C. I was expecting it to come on around the 113C mark from your earlier post. Is there something not right here?

Also when idling, more so when the engine is cooler is has an occasional moment where the engine goes to stall then there is a big gulp of air and it revs back up. Any ideas what could cause that?

Thanks

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
big_wasa

posted on 18/5/19 at 02:49 PM Reply With Quote
The code you have found is the heater control circuit.

There should be 12v one side and the ecu switches the other. If the wiring is good then you will need a replacement sensor but I would check and re check the wiring first.

What you describe is hunting, the ecu will spend some time learning and adapting every time the ecu is reset.

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
FamilyGuy

posted on 18/5/19 at 03:04 PM Reply With Quote
I'll double check the wiring but I had a nightmare getting the sensors out of the old cat. I had to resort to using a blow torch to get some heat into them to release them. I know they would get pretty hot anyway but maybe I over did it.

Does the cooling fan temps sound ok? I have the ecu switching this so hopefully fine.

[Edited on 18/5/19 by FamilyGuy]

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
big_wasa

posted on 18/5/19 at 03:35 PM Reply With Quote
Mine came on higher. Which pin have you used ? Should be pin 17 the high speed one.

The other one is for the Ac.

[Edited on 18/5/19 by big_wasa]

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
FamilyGuy

posted on 18/5/19 at 07:30 PM Reply With Quote
I currently have mine switched from ECU 68. I'll have to swap this to pin 17 and try again.
View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
big_wasa

posted on 18/5/19 at 08:03 PM Reply With Quote
What you found is still interesting, I like the idea of switchable two stage as the higher one makes me nervous in traffic. I though it just switched on at slow speed to pass air over the Ac rad.

I don’t pretend to know everything.

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
FamilyGuy

posted on 20/5/19 at 04:23 PM Reply With Quote
I've switched the pins on the ECU connector so the fan is now switched off pin 17. From initial running I think it's going to take a bit of revving to get the temp up to 113C to test the fan. It seemed to take ages to reach 98C.

I did a continuity check on all the lambda sensor wires and everything was fine so it looks like I need a new sensor.

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
big_wasa

posted on 20/5/19 at 04:35 PM Reply With Quote
It’s one of the common faults in an st the o2 sensors dying.
View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
FamilyGuy

posted on 22/5/19 at 06:51 PM Reply With Quote
I've switched the fan from ecu 68 to ecu 17 and it doesn't seem to be working. I let the engine temp get up to 115C and the fan did not kick in so I switched the engine off. I assume the wiring is ok as it was switching the fan on at 98 and off at 93 when connected to ecu 68.
View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
big_wasa

posted on 22/5/19 at 07:19 PM Reply With Quote
What relay are you using ?

I could only get it to work with the genuine green ford relay. It has a diode in it.

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
FamilyGuy

posted on 22/5/19 at 07:25 PM Reply With Quote
Yes I am using the green focus relay. I assume there is only one green relay from the focus.
View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
FamilyGuy

posted on 23/5/19 at 01:20 PM Reply With Quote
Just a thought... would the low speed fan ecu pin68 not being earthed affect the high speed fan operating? Just thought there may be some logic programmed to the ecu to ensure the low speed fan is active before high speed fan?
View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
big_wasa

posted on 23/5/19 at 03:50 PM Reply With Quote
No I’ve just removed the pin on the slow speed.

Edit, the base spec Focus with no Ac doesn’t have the low speed.

[Edited on 23/5/19 by big_wasa]

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
filstu

posted on 10/7/19 at 11:22 AM Reply With Quote
st170 escort mk 2

Thanks to big wasa i have finally managed to start up my st170 fitted to a mk2 escort. just a quick start and idle as no water pump or manifold fitted yet
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P0LRQy8sm-w[/youtube]

[Edited on 10/7/19 by filstu]

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
big_wasa

posted on 10/7/19 at 01:48 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks for the feedback


View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
filstu

posted on 11/7/19 at 11:08 AM Reply With Quote
how did you get that link to work, i tried several ways
View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
big_wasa

posted on 11/7/19 at 05:40 PM Reply With Quote
When posting there is a YouTube tab.

Click on it and insert the vid Id, not the full address ie P0LRQy8sm-w

Cheers

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
jeanp

posted on 6/10/19 at 05:41 PM Reply With Quote
Hi everybody!
I introduce myself:
Jean, 46 years old, French locostbuilder: I 've built a Roadster Haynes with a 1.8l pinto: it takes me about two years but it was a great experience!

Now I wanted upgrade the engine: so I have bought a 170st engine with the original loom.

The first step I wanted reach is to start the engine on a bench:
I 've found on the web the Focus wiring diagram and I realize that some things are missing:
The Imrc Module
The pre and post catalyst heated oxygen sensors
The inertia fuel shutoff
The evaporative emission canister vent valve
the central junction box
maybe some other things but I don't know which!
I have the pats, and when I press the buton to "open the door" on the key, I can hear a "click " in the Generic Electronic Module
For the inertia fuel shutoff, I have connected the two wires (the green/orange)together
For the ignition switch, I have installed a start buton: I've connected RD/GN and RD together (on the On),, the YE and GN/YE (on the off ) with a wire to the push buton and on the other connection , the GY/OG wire
I don't know what to do with the two grounds (BK/WH and BK/YE): on the bench or not?
On the diagram, there is a RD/BK wire, but it was not on my switch!

So I try to start the engine:
I put the buton on ON position: I hear the fuel pomp during 3 seconds, but when I press the start buton , nothing is happening
I must specify: the wiring diagram shows just one model of central junction box: So I have found one, recuperated from another Focus model

Well well well, I apologize for my bad english, but I someone could help me , your welcome
Cheers,
Jean

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
big_wasa

posted on 6/10/19 at 06:19 PM Reply With Quote
Don’t apologise for your English, mine isn’t much better and I sure as hell cant speak French.

It will actually bench start with very few sensors but very poorly.

Use the ecu loom and wire the lives and earths as directed

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
jeanp

posted on 6/10/19 at 07:29 PM Reply With Quote
Hi Big Wasa
Thank you for your answer,

Do you think the engine will start without IMRc Pre and post catalyst sensors?
My starter is ok ;It turns when I connect directly the press buton on the solenoid, but no more

I have some interrogations about the starter relay in the Central Junction Box: someone could tell me what to check please?

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
big_wasa

posted on 7/10/19 at 07:16 AM Reply With Quote
Yes it stil start but go into limp mode. Ie fine on the bench for checking it runs.

You can bypass the starter relay if you want to. If your trying to run the donor looms and relays you will have the added complexity of the gems unit. I can't help you on this.

Cheers Warren

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
filstu

posted on 24/10/19 at 06:15 PM Reply With Quote
temp sensor

Hey Big Wasa you still around on here?
i have a water rail on my ST170 from retro ford. the temperature sensor in the old plastic manifold is not a threaded type so i need to swap it.
i fitted this one Reference OE/OEM Numbers: 13627791951, 30874172, 8653103, 8942235010, 34672, 34672, however it is reading way too high, 70 degrees above ambient so its no good i think its for a Toyota.

Do you know if this sensor will work with my OEM ECU? its the correct thread, and it's for a ford so hopefully the calibration should be correct?
https://www.worldcarparts.co.uk/ford-fiesta-focus-puma-coolant- temperature-sensor
any help would be much appreciated.
also do you remember what resistor you used in the power steering circuit?

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
big_wasa

posted on 24/10/19 at 08:25 PM Reply With Quote
I can’t help much with the temp sensor other than trying a Focus Blacktop sensor fits in the head 1/4” npt ?

It’s a while since ive looked at things but from memory the evap canister purge senses a current flowing through the solenoid. And this could be replicated with a load. The clutch is a sensor earth to tell the ecu the clutch pedal is up ( normally closed) but I don’t remember the Ac needing playing with as they would be normally open circuit and are sensors and switches, not actuators.

I will try and get a look over the next week or two as I install my ecu and make up a loom.

Cheers warren

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
filstu

posted on 25/10/19 at 11:24 AM Reply With Quote
Cheers Warren, will give the Puma sensor a go. the other question was about the power steering not AC. is there a wire that senses that the power steering is at full lock and increases the engine revs? i remember mondeo's had this. the reason i ask is that my tickover is quite high.

As you mentioned the EVAP circuit does that need a dummy load too? at the moment mine just reads that the canister is not present, i don't seem to have a fault code. will that put me in limp mode?

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
big_wasa

posted on 25/10/19 at 05:53 PM Reply With Quote
So you have sensors, switches and actuators.

I am sure the power steering is a load switch and is normally open under normal circumstances so you can just pull the pin. Clutch is the same but normally closed so needs connecting to the sensor common ground.

The evap is a pwm solenoid. You could just take the coil out of the valve and mount it behind the scuttle, it just unclips. You could just bin it and see. I would be more interested if you test it back to back and post your findings. Even if it’s only the but dyno . .

As for limp home mode. Some things affect it and so things don’t but with it being pre full Can-bus there is no specific check engine light or it would seem an actual limp home mode. As it’s cheap I havnt found anyone to back to back dyno it to prove one way or another.

Cheers warren

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
<<  11    12    13    14    15    16  >>
New Topic New Poll New Reply


go to top






Website design and SEO by Studio Montage

All content © 2001-16 LocostBuilders. Reproduction prohibited
Opinions expressed in public posts are those of the author and do not necessarily represent
the views of other users or any member of the LocostBuilders team.
Running XMB 1.8 Partagium [© 2002 XMB Group] on Apache under CentOS Linux
Founded, built and operated by ChrisW.