Hi all

I have 2 questions for you all to baffle me with your knowledgeable answers.

I'll go with the easy one first. I've wired in my lights and all seem to be ok now, the only problem is that with the dipped beam off if I push the main beam forward (lock on) the lights actually come on and stay on. Is this ok or do they have to not work until the dipped beam lights are on?

Second quesiton is related to the speed sensor I have for my Koso. I'm assuming its pretty similar for any electric speedo. I have some magnets to put on the prop. Most people seem to have drilled the prop adaptor but I'm strugeling as mine is hard as nails. I was thinking of turning a piece of ally so it bolts between the adaptor and the prop and then drilling the side of this piece for the magnets to fit. I've drawn up a tacky diagram to help make sense of my rambelings.



Ideas on this one please chaps, good idea or not? My thinking is that the magnets are less likely to come out as the centrifugal forces are thowing it outwards there is nowhere for them to go as they'll be fitted from the side. On the other hand is it a bad idea to have an extra plate on the prop as it may crush over time and the bolts come loose?

Thanks
Mark.

£20 for similar from here

Thats the sort of thing. Would ally be too soft?

I drilled my magnets into one of the output flanges on the diff. Was suprisingly/worryingly easy to drill

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Originally posted by martyn_16v
I drilled my magnets into one of the output flanges on the diff. Was suprisingly/worryingly easy to drill

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No the lights is not right
Mains should at least be a swap for the dip, once the lights are on, not a means of turning the lights on..
Presumably you have another ligts on/off switch too?

I may not have understood your first question but my tintops all have the full beam and main beam lights come on with the full beam switch.
As for the prop, you would have to be very carful not to imbalance the prop. I remember seeing a post a couple of year back with pics of the prop breaking and coming through the tranny tunnel

Sorry chaps, I don't think I explained my lighting problem very well. Let me start again

With the dipped beam on, when main beam is sellected the dipped beam turns off. This is how I designed the loom and I'm happy with this. The problem is when the dipped beam is off, I can pull the switch back to flash and its ok but I can also push the switch forwards and the main beam still comes on and obviously stays on until the switch is pulled back.

I don't know if this is allowed.

I'm probably still confusing some of you so I'll make a very short video of it later when I go down and post it on here.

Mark.

PS my lighting loom is below..

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Originally posted by Mark G
Thats the sort of thing. Would ally be too soft?

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Originally posted by Schrodinger

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Originally posted by Mark G
Thats the sort of thing. Would ally be too soft?

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A hall effect sensor like the one in the etb site needs a magnetic effect of some description so the disk needs to be steel not ally. However, to use the ETB one it really needs to be used with a fixed diff and not a live axle as the tollerances are quite tight.

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I went to do some work on the car earlier and apart from finding that one of my brake pipes leaks like sieve I recorded a 30 second video to show whats happening with my lights.

http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=eVP96nhvswc

Basically the main beam will stick on with no other lights on, is this ok for SVA?

Can anyone tell me if my main beam switch is ok for sva?