
Are there any clever electrical folk in the house?
I am changing the transfer box ratio in my defender from 1:4 to 1:2. The speedo output comes after the transfer box.
I need to keep the speedo reading the same so the ECU doesn't notice the ratios are changed. (the cruise control cross checks engine RPMs to
speedo readings).
What I want to do is take the pulses from the speedo sender and reduce them by around 15% so that I am getting the same speedo reading to engine rev
ratio as before.
In principle it sounds like a simple thing to do but anyone have any thoughts on how I would go about turning one signal into another but at a reduced
frequency?
I would use an LM2917, scale/condition it using a LM324, then convert back to frequency with a LM331.
Theres probably an easier way to do it with a micro controller, but sometimes simple analog circuits are all that's needed.
It's actually not that easy to perform non-binary division (i.e. power of two) with a simple circuit. An of-the-shelf solution exists in the
form of the SpeedoHealer, but it's quite expensive for what it does. A s/h one might be
the easiest path.
If you are determined to DIY this then you won't get a simpler implementation than by using a small microcontroller.
quote:
Originally posted by dinosaurjuice
I would use an LM2917, scale/condition it using a LM324, then convert back to frequency with a LM331.
Theres probably an easier way to do it with a micro controller, but sometimes simple analog circuits are all that's needed.
Thats a good thought. It would need to drop at idle...
It's been a while since I have done anything with micoprocessors. PIC's back in the day...
How would you go about creating the code to make that work?
It would be handy to have a switchable "modified" and "unmodified" signal which changes as the speeds come back down again. All
doable in the code but not sure where I would start...
why would it need to drop at idle if the only purpose is to allow the cruise control to work?
edit: if the sensor picks up on a toothed ring etc would it be possible to just make a new one with difference spacing?
[Edited on 24/6/14 by dinosaurjuice]
Keep an eye on this thread for diy kit.
http://www.migweb.co.uk/forums/cars-items-wanted/642913-pulse-converter.html
quote:
Originally posted by dinosaurjuice
why would it need to drop at idle if the only purpose is to allow the cruise control to work?
edit: if the sensor picks up on a toothed ring etc would it be possible to just make a new one with difference spacing?
[Edited on 24/6/14 by dinosaurjuice]
my arithmetic says delete every 7th pulse gives a 14% reduction and every 6th gives a 16% reduction does it realy have to be 15%? A pulse deletion cct would be really simple!
I don't know what level of error the ecu would allow. I'm going from a 1:4 ratio box to a 1:2 ratio box..... 14 or 16% might just do it....
Lazy option...
http://www.bikersdiscountstore.co.uk/speedo-healer/healtech-electronics/speedo-healer-v4-pd-18.php
[Edited on 24/6/14 by stevebubs]
The pulse swallowing cct is just a binary counter with an AND gate to swallow the pulse once every cycle. Trip to Maplin purchase vero board, counter, AND gate, 5V regulator and capacitor, box to put it in. If you wish to follow the Locost route PM me your email address and I will send you details. Some experimentation/construction/testing will be required by you.
I assume you are going from 1.4:1 to 1.2:1 and not 4:1 to 2:1 as that would be a 50% change.
A small micro controller could measure input frequency divide it by whatever is required then output a square wave at the new frequency with the
minimum of code.
quote:
Originally posted by DW100
I assume you are going from 1.4:1 to 1.2:1 and not 4:1 to 2:1 as that would be a 50% change.
A small micro controller could measure input frequency divide it by whatever is required then output a square wave at the new frequency with the minimum of code.
Thanks all. Thats really useful info. I think I need to do some reading as I have not written any code of that sort before.
Mike Rj, would you be willing to give me some pointers when I get to that stage?
Currently doing the actual transfer box change and adding some sound insulation but once that is done I will start playing with the cruise system in
earnest.
