my r1 is 30amp
my ignition fuse (10amp) blows only under the followung circumstances (i have deduced!):
I try to start the engine and it doesn't fire and I then press the start button again before the engine has stopped spinning.
If i let the engine stop spinning and then restart it it's fine.
I'm guessing it's something to do with the current draw or a spike on the circuit when the starter tries to re-engage in the flywheel when
the engine is already spinning.
The ignition circuit/fuse feeds/protects the back of the dash, the low pressure pump and the dta ecu which controls the high pressure pump/relay.
Can I just stick a bigger fuse in and if so what rating or is there another problem/solution?
cheers,
Ned.
is that how much amp it is
my r1 is 30amp
The main power feed from the battery that goes via a battery cut-out switch would be 30amp. The signal to the starters piggy back solenoid is from the
ignition/start button which is a 10amp circuit. I'm not sure about just upping the fuse as I don't want to risk damaging the dta ecu which
the 10amp fuse protects.
Ned.
The fuse will be right on its limit Ned, those Bosch solonoids pull more than 10 amps, you are prob getting away with it when the fuse is cold on the
first stab then it blows on the second go when its hot.
You need 20 amps on the solonoid feed.
Fuse the DTA feed seperately, is the power side of the ecu relayed? If so then you only need 3 amps for it.
quote:
Originally posted by NS Dev
is the power side of the ecu relayed? If so then you only need 3 amps for it.
Ignition Fuse ?
Not sure on this one but many ignition systems are not fused and require a permanent supply.
This is seperate from the starter system. The draw of a starter motor could be in excess of 100 amps, but the solenoid may draw upto 25amps,
depending on design.
The reason many ignitions are not fused is because if you loose your ignition in the fast lane of the motorway, it could cause a serious problem.
Most of my early cars did not have a fuse on the ignition system and unless there is one built in to my ECU I dont have one in my current Car.
Not sue if this helps
Just realised its a bike engine, sorry.
Don't know anything about them ,
ignore last message.
Funny looking bike engine, it says Vauxhall on it.
I would definately put the ECU on it's own fused circuit, starter solenoids can put *massive* spikes onto the supply rail.
thanks all, gives me something else to do -wouldn't it be terrible if i actually finished it!
cheers,
Ned.
quote:
Originally posted by ned
thanks all, gives me something else to do -wouldn't it be terrible if i actually finished it!
cheers,
Ned.
Nat,
Here's Ned's wiring diagram, if you happen to have a diagram of yours then it would be great as I could see how you've done it and
ammend as appropriate.
http://www.shortshouse.co.uk/NedsWiring_v8.pdf
ta,
Rich.
quote:
Originally posted by ned
quote:
Originally posted by NS Dev
is the power side of the ecu relayed? If so then you only need 3 amps for it.
not quite sure what you mean by this Nat. The power subloom of the dta is fed directly from the 10amp fuse in the fusebox and the only relay is the signal from the ecu out to the fuel pump relay which the ecu controls the high pressure pump with.
cheers,
Ned.