dean100yz
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 posted on 16/2/09 at 03:45 PM |
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Brake lights
Just noticed today from a drive out that the brake lights dont seem to come on when using brakes under normal use.
Got back pushed hard and they came on fine. How do I go about adjusting this?
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mad4x4
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| posted on 16/2/09 at 03:48 PM |
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Either position of switch against the pedal or if it is a pressure switch then you have too low a pressure in the line....... or a to high rated
switch
Scot's do it better in Kilts.
MK INDY's Don't Self Centre Regardless of MK Setting !
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cloudy
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| posted on 16/2/09 at 04:12 PM |
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I have this problem to an extent, because most of my braking force goes to the rear. If it's a hydraulic switch - which circuit is it in?
James
www.warnercars.com
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nick205
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| posted on 16/2/09 at 04:19 PM |
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I have the same issue caused by the hydraulic switch sitting in the rear brake line and not being easy to bleed properly.
If you have a hydraulic switch then check it's bled to remove any air. If it doesn't improve then you could fit a new switch in the front
lines (old one can be left in situ and disconnected).
If you have a electrical switch type then you need to re-position it to switch at the start of the pedal stroke.
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jacko
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| posted on 16/2/09 at 06:05 PM |
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I had the same so fitted a micro switch on the pedal
I was sick of people taping me on my shoulder at traffic lights to tell me i had NO brake lights
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:{THC}:YosamiteSam
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| posted on 17/2/09 at 12:49 AM |
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yep - its a common problem - my dax and the westy are the same - i solved it by swapping to an electrial micro switch - the ones from maplins with a
long thin metal bar you can bend to suit the position you need - works great and far better than a hydraulic switch which always fail
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dean100yz
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| posted on 17/2/09 at 09:48 AM |
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Im gonna have a check today and see just how its setup. Cheers for help
I need to get some type of brake controller too. My back right wheel locks before the others. Been told this can quite comment oo and fixed (although
a pain in the ar*e)
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iank
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| posted on 17/2/09 at 10:06 AM |
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Which way up do you have the T-piece (assuming it's mounted in one)
Should be
===XXXXXX===
...........II
.........SW
if it's got the switch at the top there will be a small bubble which makes it come on only with heavy pressure - especially if it's in
the rear line.
Edit: ignore the dots, site is trying to be too clever and formatting them out.
[Edited on 17/2/09 by iank]
--
Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.
Anonymous
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dean100yz
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| posted on 17/2/09 at 08:30 PM |
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Spoke to MAC1 today. Said its quite commen and cant be adjusted??
Fluid is 3 years old now (from new) and prob needs a good flush + both they and myself think there might be some air which is poss a reason for both
the brake only coming on when pushed hard and why the rear wheel locks first
Brakes are powerful though and have no fade (from what ive tried given the roads etc)
Im gonna check the T bar tomorrow and see what you said ^^^^^^ (yes it has one but havnt checked fitment etc)
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dean100yz
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| posted on 17/2/09 at 08:31 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by jacko
I had the same so fitted a micro switch on the pedal
I was sick of people taping me on my shoulder at traffic lights to tell me i had NO brake lights
Yeah thats what MAC have said to do. Maplins will have something like that Id have thought. Where did you get yours from??
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dean100yz
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| posted on 17/2/09 at 08:33 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by nick205
I have the same issue caused by the hydraulic switch sitting in the rear brake line and not being easy to bleed properly.
If you have a hydraulic switch then check it's bled to remove any air. If it doesn't improve then you could fit a new switch in the front
lines (old one can be left in situ and disconnected).
If you have a electrical switch type then you need to re-position it to switch at the start of the pedal stroke.
It is hydraulic and the bleeding I think is where the problem lies. I'll know tomorrow. Hard to give myself the time to do it when all I wanna
do is drive it 
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