DIY Si
|
| posted on 13/5/06 at 03:31 PM |
|
|
which connectors?
What is everyone doing about connecting wires? Spade, bullet or solder? Or some other method I've forgotten about?
|
|
|
|
|
RazMan
|
| posted on 13/5/06 at 03:49 PM |
|
|
The 'Mate & Lock' variety are pretty good for internal stuff - up to 15 way available. If you need splash proof ones Premier wiring do
a nice one.
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
|
|
|
DIY Si
|
| posted on 13/5/06 at 03:51 PM |
|
|
Any pics of the 'Mate & Lock type? Not sure what they are.
|
|
|
RazMan
|
| posted on 13/5/06 at 03:56 PM |
|
|
Here you go - check out the other ones at his website here
[Edited on 13-5-06 by RazMan]
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
|
|
|
DIY Si
|
| posted on 13/5/06 at 03:57 PM |
|
|
Ah, now I know what you mean. Would they be suitable for the entire loom? I'm going to risk it and make my own since I've got miles of
wire lying about.
|
|
|
RazMan
|
| posted on 13/5/06 at 04:01 PM |
|
|
Not for every connection but ok up to 10A. You can get smaller connectors if space is a problem (mini mate & lock) but they can only handle 5A so
no good for heavy current items like headlamps ( the RIST range is good for them)
One tip - make sure you get a good crimp tool and you will have a perfect connection.
[Edited on 13-5-06 by RazMan]
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
|
|
|
DIY Si
|
| posted on 13/5/06 at 04:09 PM |
|
|
Any idea what would be suitable for heavier loads? I'd like a ammeter and a heater. What sort of current will the main beam circuit draw?
Can't remember what's standard since my normal car is old enough to use 100w bulbs, and draws 46 amps with everything on!
|
|
|
RazMan
|
| posted on 13/5/06 at 04:23 PM |
|
|
Normal main beam bulbs are around 55W which draw about 5 Amps. If you run both headlamps through the same loom connector in parallel you will have to
use 1 sq mm cable which is good for 16A. There isn't really anything much heavier than that except for the alternator. I used a 10 sq mm cable
for that and 6mm sq mm for the battery to fuse box connection - everything else gets smaller after that and you can even use 0.5 sq mm cables for most
circuits if you need to keep the loom lightweight. Make sure all your earths are at least 1mm though.
You can get appropriate connectors for all the different ratings. Give Alan at Premier a ring - he will give you some good advice (but set aside an
hour as he likes a chat
 )
[Edited on 14-5-06 by RazMan]
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
|
|
|
DIY Si
|
| posted on 13/5/06 at 04:31 PM |
|
|
Cool, I'll give him a try on monday. I'm planning on running as few wires as possibly to the front and back and then splitting for the two
sides, rather than running a seperate wire to each light. ie the back should only have 4 wires, two for the indicators, one for side lights and one
for brake lights.
|
|
|
darrens
|
| posted on 13/5/06 at 05:18 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by DIY Si
the back should only have 4 wires, two for the indicators, one for side lights and one for brake lights.
Might need fuel sender wire, one for fog and reverse (if using one), fuel pump
just a thought
|
|
|
DIY Si
|
| posted on 13/5/06 at 05:25 PM |
|
|
Forgot about fue sender. Not using a fog light unless sva man says I have to? Same goes for reverse light. The fuel pump is cam driven on the engine.
|
|
|
Peteff
|
| posted on 13/5/06 at 06:16 PM |
|
|
Not using a fog light unless sva man says I have to?
He will say failed if you don't. Are you running both sidelights off one fuse? It's not a problem but if it goes you have no lights at
the back.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
|
|
|
DIY Si
|
| posted on 13/5/06 at 06:38 PM |
|
|
Ar$e, didn't think you needed a fog light. Yup, was going to run similar lights off the same wire. Ie both sidelights from a single wire and
then split it to each light. Should simplify the loom no end.
|
|
|
RichieC
|
| posted on 14/5/06 at 09:48 AM |
|
|
Just out of interest how do you fit the pins into these type of connectors? I assume they crimp on but do they just push into the plug or do you need
a tool?
Thanks
Rich
|
|
|
RazMan
|
| posted on 14/5/06 at 10:20 AM |
|
|
You crimp or solder the wire onto the pins and they simply push into the connector housing. The tricky bit comes when you make a mistake and need to
remove a pin. They are retained by a small barb which needs to be pressed in to enable it to be withdrawn. You can get a special tool for this job but
they can be quite expensive.
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
|
|
|
RichieC
|
| posted on 14/5/06 at 10:38 AM |
|
|
Yeh, Ive seen the type of thing you mean trick I guess is getting it right first time 
Thanks
Richie
|
|
|
