Printable Version | Subscribe | Add to Favourites
New Topic New Poll New Reply
Author: Subject: ignition fuse blowing when restarting engine
ned

posted on 6/6/06 at 08:33 AM Reply With Quote
ignition fuse blowing when restarting engine

my ignition fuse (10amp) blows only under the followung circumstances (i have deduced!):

I try to start the engine and it doesn't fire and I then press the start button again before the engine has stopped spinning.

If i let the engine stop spinning and then restart it it's fine.

I'm guessing it's something to do with the current draw or a spike on the circuit when the starter tries to re-engage in the flywheel when the engine is already spinning.

The ignition circuit/fuse feeds/protects the back of the dash, the low pressure pump and the dta ecu which controls the high pressure pump/relay.

Can I just stick a bigger fuse in and if so what rating or is there another problem/solution?

cheers,

Ned.





beware, I've got yellow skin

View User's Profile E-Mail User Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member
zxrlocost

posted on 6/6/06 at 08:48 AM Reply With Quote
is that how much amp it is

my r1 is 30amp

PLEASE NOTE: This user is a trader who has not signed up for the LocostBuilders registration scheme. If this post is advertising a commercial product or service, please report it by clicking here.

View User's Profile Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member
ned

posted on 6/6/06 at 09:11 AM Reply With Quote
The main power feed from the battery that goes via a battery cut-out switch would be 30amp. The signal to the starters piggy back solenoid is from the ignition/start button which is a 10amp circuit. I'm not sure about just upping the fuse as I don't want to risk damaging the dta ecu which the 10amp fuse protects.

Ned.





beware, I've got yellow skin

View User's Profile E-Mail User Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member
NS Dev

posted on 6/6/06 at 09:19 AM Reply With Quote
The fuse will be right on its limit Ned, those Bosch solonoids pull more than 10 amps, you are prob getting away with it when the fuse is cold on the first stab then it blows on the second go when its hot.

You need 20 amps on the solonoid feed.

Fuse the DTA feed seperately, is the power side of the ecu relayed? If so then you only need 3 amps for it.





Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion retro car restoration and tuning

View User's Profile Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member
ned

posted on 6/6/06 at 09:43 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by NS Dev
is the power side of the ecu relayed? If so then you only need 3 amps for it.

not quite sure what you mean by this Nat. The power subloom of the dta is fed directly from the 10amp fuse in the fusebox and the only relay is the signal from the ecu out to the fuel pump relay which the ecu controls the high pressure pump with.

cheers,

Ned.





beware, I've got yellow skin

View User's Profile E-Mail User Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member
Johnmor

posted on 6/6/06 at 05:15 PM Reply With Quote
Ignition Fuse ?

Not sure on this one but many ignition systems are not fused and require a permanent supply.
This is seperate from the starter system. The draw of a starter motor could be in excess of 100 amps, but the solenoid may draw upto 25amps, depending on design.

The reason many ignitions are not fused is because if you loose your ignition in the fast lane of the motorway, it could cause a serious problem.

Most of my early cars did not have a fuse on the ignition system and unless there is one built in to my ECU I dont have one in my current Car.

Not sue if this helps

View User's Profile E-Mail User View All Posts By User U2U Member
Johnmor

posted on 6/6/06 at 05:17 PM Reply With Quote
Just realised its a bike engine, sorry.

Don't know anything about them ,

ignore last message.

View User's Profile E-Mail User View All Posts By User U2U Member
gazza285

posted on 6/6/06 at 05:49 PM Reply With Quote
Funny looking bike engine, it says Vauxhall on it.





DO NOT PUT ON KNOB OR BOLLOCKS!

View User's Profile E-Mail User Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member
MikeRJ

posted on 6/6/06 at 09:06 PM Reply With Quote
I would definately put the ECU on it's own fused circuit, starter solenoids can put *massive* spikes onto the supply rail.
View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
ned

posted on 6/6/06 at 09:08 PM Reply With Quote
thanks all, gives me something else to do -wouldn't it be terrible if i actually finished it!

cheers,

Ned.





beware, I've got yellow skin

View User's Profile E-Mail User Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member
MikeRJ

posted on 6/6/06 at 09:17 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by ned
thanks all, gives me something else to do -wouldn't it be terrible if i actually finished it!

cheers,

Ned.


Heh, imagine having some kind of life outside the garage <shudder>

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
shortie

posted on 6/6/06 at 10:08 PM Reply With Quote
Nat,

Here's Ned's wiring diagram, if you happen to have a diagram of yours then it would be great as I could see how you've done it and ammend as appropriate.

http://www.shortshouse.co.uk/NedsWiring_v8.pdf

ta,
Rich.

View User's Profile Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member
NS Dev

posted on 7/6/06 at 09:32 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by ned
quote:
Originally posted by NS Dev
is the power side of the ecu relayed? If so then you only need 3 amps for it.

not quite sure what you mean by this Nat. The power subloom of the dta is fed directly from the 10amp fuse in the fusebox and the only relay is the signal from the ecu out to the fuel pump relay which the ecu controls the high pressure pump with.

cheers,

Ned.


Right, so your ecu is not relayed then (just wondered cos my MBE systems both have 2 relays, one for the box feed and one for the fuel pump feed) so you need a 10 amp fuse for the ecu, but you want to feed and fuse the solonoid seperately (if at all, I'm not)





Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion retro car restoration and tuning

View User's Profile Visit User's Homepage View All Posts By User U2U Member

New Topic New Poll New Reply


go to top






Website design and SEO by Studio Montage

All content © 2001-16 LocostBuilders. Reproduction prohibited
Opinions expressed in public posts are those of the author and do not necessarily represent
the views of other users or any member of the LocostBuilders team.
Running XMB 1.8 Partagium [© 2002 XMB Group] on Apache under CentOS Linux
Founded, built and operated by ChrisW.