jabbahutt
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 posted on 11/9/07 at 09:34 AM |
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switched +'ve
Morning all
Getting started with the electrics and wanted some clarication before starting. Reading though the instructions for the dials as an example all the
+'ve are switched.
The only place I know (being thick at electrics) is the +'ve on the coil.
I can't see all the dials going to the same point so could someone explain how you wire to switched +'ve multiple times?
I had the idea it might work like this, a multiple block connector in line on the positive to the coil and then the required +'ve's all
taken from that block connector. It sounds like it would work but something tells me that it's too simple
The same for all the earths that the gauges etc will need, all to one point then one earth to chassis?
I know it sounds daft but reading the loom diagram and actually getting my head round how to do it is giving me headaches.
lastly how does all the relays, fuses etc mount to the car neatly. i have a vicki green loom, loads of lose bits and no idea how to physically fit it
to the car?
Any idiot explainations, photos much appreciated.
Cheers
Nigel
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BenB
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| posted on 11/9/07 at 09:46 AM |
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One thing to remember is that not only do you need things to be switched but also appropriately fused.
You might not want to have the coil on the same fuse circuit as your dials.
If you've got a scanner or a digital cam why not post a picture of the loom diagram- I'm sure we can work it out as a group!!!
Normally switched live wires are all dark green, and the backlight wires for dials will be red (same as the sidelights and rear lights)....
Whatever you do make sure you understand the loom diagram before chopping wires!!
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iank
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| posted on 11/9/07 at 09:59 AM |
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Looking at any loom wiring diagram as a whole is confusing and scary. The only way to do it is to think of individual circuits at a time.
Every circuit can be thought of as a loop between the battery +ve (big red terminal) and ground (-ve the black terminal on the battery).
slightly simplified (doesn't deal with ignition switch)
switched +ve circuits go
battery +ve
fuse
switch
load (light etc)
ground (battery -ve)
switched -ve circuits go
battery +ve
fuse
load (light etc)
switch
ground (battery -ve)
As for where fuseboxes etc go, it depends on the loom. Try laying it out next to the car - it should be obvious which end goes to the rear lights etc
and which the front. That will show roughly where the fusebox etc. must be located as it will be limited by the length of the wires. Often in the
engine bay near/on the scuttle.
--
Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.
Anonymous
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twybrow
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| posted on 11/9/07 at 10:18 AM |
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To clarify, a switched +ve is a +ve that is only turned on (switched) when the ignition/key is turned. You will also need permanent +ve (for things
like the hazards etc), earths (which can be earhted to the chassis anywhere - just make sure it is a sound contact and you have a decent sized
earthing strap running back to the battery -ve) .
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jabbahutt
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| posted on 11/9/07 at 12:00 PM |
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thanks for the info, so if I have several earths required in the same place i.e gauges can they go to one earth point or is it better each to have
it's own?
Thanks
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Howlor
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| posted on 11/9/07 at 12:31 PM |
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All to one earth point is fine. Ideally if you can run an earth straight from the battery it cuts out problems getting a good chassis earth. If you
are going to run a chassis earth then make sure it is really clean with all paint or powder coating removed. A poor earth can cause all sorts of weird
and wonderful things. How often so you see an old ford with it's reverse light flashing when turning at a junction!
Steve
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Howlor
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| posted on 11/9/07 at 12:35 PM |
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Also just reading the rest of your post. I mounted the fusebox on the scuttle so it is easy to get at and check if a fuse blows. Then I would see how
much cable you have and mount the relay holders in a suitable dry position say under the dash. I mounted mine on the dash round bar that follows the
scuttle. It was then fairly easy to reach and replace if required. The wires all then fed along this bar to the steering area where you can connect
them to the stalks etc.
Steve
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jabbahutt
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| posted on 11/9/07 at 12:36 PM |
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thanks
As it's an earth do wire sizes matter for things like gauges or is the current so small it doesn't matter?
Also is there a correct/best way to join say 5 earth wires to one before earthing, want something more professional than chock block? what about 5
eyelet connectors bolted to another that runs to earth?
thanks for the patience
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Howlor
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| posted on 11/9/07 at 12:46 PM |
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Something like the attached can be a neat solution. It is easy to add more earths in the future.
B&Q do a metal terminal block for earths. You can bolt this to the chassis and it once again looks better than the normal chock block style.
Steve
Linky
[Edited on 11/9/07 by Howlor]
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martyn_16v
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| posted on 11/9/07 at 04:16 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by jabbahutt
Also is there a correct/best way to join say 5 earth wires to one before earthing, want something more professional than chock block? what about 5
eyelet connectors bolted to another that runs to earth?
If you have a rummage in a scrappy you'll find most cars have a couple of earthing blocks (often somewhere near the fusebox), a gold coloured
thing that bolts to the chassis and has half a dozen or so spade connections on it.
Something like this...
[Edited on 11/9/07 by martyn_16v]
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sgraber
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| posted on 11/9/07 at 05:32 PM |
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Those work well and I have them under the dash as well as in the engine bay. One word of caution, if you overtighten the mounting screws you will
crack the plastic. Every time... don't ask me how I know. But I must've eaten my wheaties that morning.
G.
quote:
Originally posted by Howlor
Something like the attached can be a neat solution. It is easy to add more earths in the future.
B&Q do a metal terminal block for earths. You can bolt this to the chassis and it once again looks better than the normal chock block style.
Steve
Linky
[Edited on 11/9/07 by Howlor]
Steve Graber
http://www.grabercars.com/
"Quickness through lightness"
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